Miatatom

Here's the original tip I posted back in June. The jar with the Ferrari red paint in it still has some of that paint in it today and the seals are still good. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76428&hl=jars#entry966188

The seals on the canning jars seem to be impervious to lacquer thinner or lacquer paint fumes or contact. In fact, when I've emptied a jar, I clean it up with lacquer thinner and that includes a thorough cleaning of the seals. They've never become sticky or deteriorated.

I decant enough paint to be able to finish the car and then some and leave the rest in the can. I've been using lacquers, mostly Model Master. It'll lose some solvent over time but I just open it up and give it a shot of lacquer thinner and mix it well to the thinness I want. I've had some decanted for several months and the trick above always works. I put the paint in small canning jars I got a Walmart. They have a seal and lacquer thinner doesn't seem to bother it. You can get a dozen for about $10. I use cheap lacquer thinner when needed but most decanted sprays are thin enough. I disassemble my brush after every use. I have a gravity feed Badger 105. When I'm waiting for stuff to dry in between coats I'll empty the cup and then I wipe it with a paper towel soaked in thinner. I also clean out the bottom of the cup with Q tips soaked in thinner. I'll add thinner to the cup and shoot it through the brush onto a clean paper towel until it sprays clear.

One of my heroes as well. Sad.

Great save!

Great tip!

Very clever and nicely done!

I have dealt with him as well and agree with you. Good place to do business.

+1

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=77554#entry982742 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81345#entry1042817

Nicely done! I've heard the fit on these kits is really sub-standard. Yours looks great!

Never. I get filtered email notifications and follow the areas I'm interested in that way.

I'm building both of these from the original SMER kits and they won't be nearly as nice as this example. Thanks for the spoke lacing tutorial.

I like it!

Here it is: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=22883

If that's the case, I'm in big trouble!

Do you have any suggestions for replacing louvers? I've seen this tutorial and wondered if your method is similar. http://automodeler.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=1240

Yes, but the side benefit is not having to turn on the lights at night when I go to the bathroom!

I am building the SMER kit of the Alfetta and it will never look as good as your build, Jurgen. Beautiful work!

Retired 7 years ago. I had a 37 year career in the nuclear industry (nuclear weapons, nuclear fuel fabrication and nuclear power) in radiation safety. Retired from Tennessee Valley Authority as an instructor at the Watts Bar Nuclear Plant Training Center.

Great job! I've got one of those in my stash.

Nice job! I love the color and quality of finish. The gaps for the trunk and rear fenders are a little wide. I'd scuff the mold line off the slicks too. Trademarks on the bottom of the chassis could be removed. Rear taillights? I've got this model in my stash and will get to it someday. I've heard it's sub par on fitment of some of the parts. If mine turns out as nice as yours, I'll be happy. I'm working on several cars and in a few instances, taking a shortcut was necessary for my sanity. I'm finding that the near perfection I see in some builds may be above my abilities. Experience will fix that hopefully.

Welcome! I visited your beautiful city while in the US Navy, way back in 1963. I'm sure it's changed a lot but I really enjoyed it.

Doug, I'm 69 so I speak from experience. You need light, more light and then even more light.

Nice work! Love the orange, GO VOLS!!