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Posted (edited)

I've been struggling with half way realistic looking head lights in old annual kits for a long time!

I think I've finally cobbled together a solution.

It's a little complicated, involving aluminum tubing & "Laser Bond" cast lenses, but I finally found something I like the look of.

It could still use a little refinement, but I don't think it looks half bad for a first attempt! :P

If people like the look, I'll try to put together a tutorial at some point.

 

By the way, you could leave out the reflectors if you're inclined to build something with working lights.

 

Steve

 

DSCN5612DSCN5615

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
Posted

I'm intrigued!  I'm following your '62 Chrysler build and would be interested in this technique.  I have picked up several tips from you that have vastly improved my models, so I'm all ears.

 

Posted

I'm intrigued!  I'm following your '62 Chrysler build and would be interested in this technique.  I have picked up several tips from you that have vastly improved my models, so I'm all ears.

 

Well, here's a basic overview.

It is basically a drilling out of the old headlights & replacing them with a bucket & lenses.

The difference is, that you're making the bucket from basic aluminum tubing & the lens from "Laser Bond".

2 different sizes of tubing are required.

Sorry, but there was no size on the package of tubing that I bought, they just looked about right. ^_^

I did my best to measure them & the smaller tube looks to be about 5mm O/D, & the larger about 5.5mm O/D.

Anyway, what you're looking for is a piece of aluminum tubing that is the correct size for the headlight retaining ring, & another piece that slides tightly inside of it.

DSCN5616

Basically, the large tubing will be the exposed trim ring, & the smaller tubing will slide inside for the lens to seat on.

Then a piece of plastic rod or sprue, with the end covered in foil, slid into the smaller tube as a reflector.

Then, a lens molded from Laser Bond dropped in.

DSCN5617DSCN5618

 DSCN5620

It's really not a difficult process, just a little more complex than a ready made bucket & lens.

The most difficult part is drilling the bezels to the correct size.

 

Steve

Posted

Very nice results Steve. That makes several cool uses I have now seen for Laser Bond. I may have to check that stuff out. I have some nice spare lenses in my stash, but I am hesitant to use them and then be stuck without replacements. Using this, I could cast up several copies to have on hand at any given time. Really like the duel tubing idea to retain as well, very ingenious. 

Posted (edited)

I have some nice spare lenses in my stash, but I am hesitant to use them and then be stuck without replacements. Using this, I could cast up several copies to have on hand at any given time.

That's the nice thing about using Laser Bond or Bondic for lenses.

Once you make an impression of a given lens, you have the mold on hand & it takes a matter of a few minutes to make a complete set of lenses.

I have molds made for several different size lenses.

The trick is to find lenses with the "waffle" detail ridges in the outside of the lens.

Most kits have them on the inside making them unacceptable for making a one part mold.

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
Posted

Great idea and fabulous tutorial! Now I need to find out what "laser bond" is and what it costs and where to get some.

How I wish someone would just offer sets of say 16 clear headlights--molded or resin.

Posted

Great idea and fabulous tutorial! Now I need to find out what "laser bond" is and what it costs and where to get some.

How I wish someone would just offer sets of say 16 clear headlights--molded or resin.

Yep, what is Laser Bond ?

And I might be interested is some clear resin lenses in say a pack of 10

Posted

Great idea and fabulous tutorial! Now I need to find out what "laser bond" is and what it costs and where to get some.

How I wish someone would just offer sets of say 16 clear headlights--molded or resin.

Yep, what is Laser Bond ?

And I might be interested is some clear resin lenses in say a pack of 10

Laser Bond & Bondic are pretty much the same animal.

Both are UV cured adhesives.

You can squirt a little bit into your mold, hit it with the light for a few seconds & it's cured & ready to use.

I use it for anything where I need an instant bond as well.

Works great for mock ups & things like installing glass.

You can pick it up almost anywhere online.

I believe I got my last tube on either Amazon or Ebay.

You can pick it up in the US for around $10.00-$12.00.

If you don't mind waiting forever for shipping, you can get it from China for about $2.00 a tube on Ebay.

 

Steve

Posted

Excellent idea but the headlight still looks a bit dull. Headlights in 1:1 cars are sparkly like cut diamonds. I wonder if you could use a mirrored rhinestone (as a reflector) behind the resin lens?  That might brighten it up.

As far as Bondic goes, I bought mine at a local Target store. They have a while end-cap of one of the isles dedicated to "as seen on TV" items.

Posted

Excellent idea but the headlight still looks a bit dull. Headlights in 1:1 cars are sparkly like cut diamonds. I wonder if you could use a mirrored rhinestone (as a reflector) behind the resin lens?  That might brighten it up.

As far as Bondic goes, I bought mine at a local Target store. They have a while end-cap of one of the isles dedicated to "as seen on TV" items.

I don't think the problem is the reflector.

The Laser Bond is not as clear as kit plastic & after molding, it's not shiny like clear kit plastic.

This will have to do until a better alternative for lenses comes along.

There's always room to do something different with the reflectors if needed.

 

Steve

Posted

"The trick is to find lenses with the "waffle" detail ridges in the outside of the lens."  Just wondering if you were to use the molded chrome headlights that you are replacing, would they work as well for a mold master as a separate clear lens?  

I bought my Bondic at WalMart for around $10-12.  Haven't had an opportunity to use it yet.

Posted

"The trick is to find lenses with the "waffle" detail ridges in the outside of the lens."  Just wondering if you were to use the molded chrome headlights that you are replacing, would they work as well for a mold master as a separate clear lens?  

I bought my Bondic at WalMart for around $10-12.  Haven't had an opportunity to use it yet.

Yeah Rick, I've tried that a couple of times.

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

It's just more difficult to make a mold that way.

It's easier just to press a lens into the mold material.

Otherwise you get all of surrounding parts from the grille or bezel as part of your mold & it just seemed to me to be more difficult to cast a clean part.

No reason why you shouldn't give it a shot though.

Might work better for you.

 

Steve

Posted

I don't think the problem is the reflector.

The Laser Bond is not as clear as kit plastic & after molding, it's not shiny like clear kit plastic.

 

 

Steve

I haven't used Laser Bond but Bondic comes out with a slightly tacky surface that goes really dull when handled. I spray everything with a clear acrylic and it comes out shiny and resists handling while staying clear.

Posted

I haven't used Laser Bond but Bondic comes out with a slightly tacky surface that goes really dull when handled. I spray everything with a clear acrylic and it comes out shiny and resists handling while staying clear.

When I read your first sentence, I was going to suggest brushing on a coat of Future, but I see you already found a solution. B)

Posted

I haven't used Laser Bond but Bondic comes out with a slightly tacky surface that goes really dull when handled. I spray everything with a clear acrylic and it comes out shiny and resists handling while staying clear.

When I read your first sentence, I was going to suggest brushing on a coat of Future, but I see you already found a solution. B)

I thought of trying that, but they really get no handling.

These lenses that I used in the '62 never touched my hands.

I did everything with a tweezers.

They basically went straight from the mold to the bezel.

I may try a shot of clear next time though, just to shine them up a little.

Or I may try the melted clear sprue technique again.

That yields a much clearer & shinier lens, but it's also more work.

 

Steve

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 

The trick is to find lenses with the "waffle" detail ridges in the outside of the lens.

Most kits have them on the inside making them unacceptable for making a one part mold.

 

Steve

I was just looking at the AMT '57 Ford kit for another reason, and noticed that it has sets of both dual and quad headlight lenses with the waffle pattern on the outside.

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