1/25 Revell 1969 Chevelle SS 396

[doorsovdoon]

Chris is who got me back into model building. I was only planning on building one car but now here I am after more than ten builds! Lol

[keyser]

Evidently an oozing zit.

Should we scrape the chrome before popping it? Slow mo vid would be disgusting yet compelling. 

[randyc]

11 hours ago, RichCostello said:

The rear bumper in my kit looks fine to me. Am I missing something?

The issue to me and I think others, is that as offered, there is a pretty large gap between the bumper and the filler panel.  When assembled, it leaves a pretty large gap that can be pretty conspicuous in the finshed model.   Between the taillight fillers and bumper.   I"m hoping to get my build back on track enough to start some photos soon.   I had primer issues (in another thread) that has stalled me for this week.  All the parts have to work together in this area and somewhere a gap developed that continued into production.  

All I've really accomplished this week is to get the grille and wheels painted.  A real SS396 only has shiny chrome around the headlights.  And it's not really kit chrome shiny.   The wheels are not really accurate for a 69 SS396 from all the photos I've seen.   They do not have trim rings.  Which means to be accurate as molded, one would have to paint the rim and spokes aluminum.   These are more like a Mopar or Ford wheel, with chrome rim and spokes.  I think the revell wheels of fire 70 SS454 had more correct wheels but the size may be small.  Others may pop in and add to that.  I used the rallys on my 68 so was thinking of using the Magnums.  But I may change completely - have to see what I have around.  

[Rodent]

All of the original 69 and 70 Chevelle SS wheels I remember seeing had trim rings. I think that I am going to use a set from the AMT 70 on mine. They look a little better to my eye than the Revell wheels.

 

[hpiguy]

On 8/2/2020 at 12:03 PM, Ronrr said:

Just so all of you experts know the body and all related parts, including taillights and bumpers, were made from Chevrolet factory drawings and verified with hundreds of research photos and dimensions. Granted some very minor adjustments can take place going into the 3D modeling stage, but hardley way out of wack like one of your expert Revell haters here suggested.

I can tell you that I and tens of thousands of my viewers LOVE the kit, it's proportions, details and accuracy as is.  The comments, likes and reactions to the model proves that.

As with every single thing on this Earth, there will be a small group that doesn't like something, about anything presented. 

Keep up the good work if you're still on the Revell team, love the things coming out!

 

Edited August 13, 2020 by hpiguy

[RichCostello]

5 hours ago, randyc said:

The issue to me and I think others, is that as offered, there is a pretty large gap between the bumper and the filler panel.  When assembled, it leaves a pretty large gap that can be pretty conspicuous in the finshed model.   Between the taillight fillers and bumper.   I"m hoping to get my build back on track enough to start some photos soon.   I had primer issues (in another thread) that has stalled me for this week.  All the parts have to work together in this area and somewhere a gap developed that continued into production.  

All I've really accomplished this week is to get the grille and wheels painted.  A real SS396 only has shiny chrome around the headlights.  And it's not really kit chrome shiny.   The wheels are not really accurate for a 69 SS396 from all the photos I've seen.   They do not have trim rings.  Which means to be accurate as molded, one would have to paint the rim and spokes aluminum.   These are more like a Mopar or Ford wheel, with chrome rim and spokes.  I think the revell wheels of fire 70 SS454 had more correct wheels but the size may be small.  Others may pop in and add to that.  I used the rallys on my 68 so was thinking of using the Magnums.  But I may change completely - have to see what I have around.  

I don't see it! I did an image search on Google, and there are some very good pictures of the rear of the car, and there is a gap there, so to my old eyes, it looks good. If the gap looks too big to anyone, why not just cut the bumper from the trim, and file down the gap. That would eliminate the gap, and some of the space between the bumper and the end caps.

[Rodent]

2 hours ago, RichCostello said:

I don't see it! I did an image search on Google, and there are some very good pictures of the rear of the car, and there is a gap there, so to my old eyes, it looks good. If the gap looks too big to anyone, why not just cut the bumper from the trim, and file down the gap. That would eliminate the gap, and some of the space between the bumper and the end caps.

I think that is the answer.

The taillights and/or body and endcaps need a little careful trimming as well. The taillights don't fit the body very well out of the box. You can this see in Randy's mockup, Chris' build, and the box art model.

[randyc]

I plan to start a WIP thread this weekend.  I'll try to get a better photo.  And I am thinking I will go ahead and cut the bumper off so we can all see how that works.   I mean, what can possibly go wrong???  LOL.   

[drodg]

On 8/13/2020 at 8:27 AM, randyc said:

The issue to me and I think others, is that as offered, there is a pretty large gap between the bumper and the filler panel.  When assembled, it leaves a pretty large gap that can be pretty conspicuous in the finshed model.   Between the taillight fillers and bumper.   I"m hoping to get my build back on track enough to start some photos soon.   I had primer issues (in another thread) that has stalled me for this week.  All the parts have to work together in this area and somewhere a gap developed that continued into production.  

All I've really accomplished this week is to get the grille and wheels painted.  A real SS396 only has shiny chrome around the headlights.  And it's not really kit chrome shiny.   The wheels are not really accurate for a 69 SS396 from all the photos I've seen.   They do not have trim rings.  Which means to be accurate as molded, one would have to paint the rim and spokes aluminum.   These are more like a Mopar or Ford wheel, with chrome rim and spokes.  I think the revell wheels of fire 70 SS454 had more correct wheels but the size may be small.  Others may pop in and add to that.  I used the rallys on my 68 so was thinking of using the Magnums.  But I may change completely - have to see what I have around.  

Randy I just noticed that the Magnum 500 (mopar) styled wheels are not correct, you are right.  I would assume the wheels from the AMT kits like the 70 possibly the 69 would work?   

[Snake45]

8 minutes ago, drodg said:

Randy I just noticed that the Magnum 500 (mopar) styled wheels are not correct, you are right.  I would assume the wheels from the AMT kits like the 70 possibly the 69 would work?   

I've used them, but the '69 SS wheels have always had a weird curvature to the spokes, and I'm not sure the rim area is right on them. 

I think the ones in the AMT '70 are better. 

I haven't seen a good pics of the wheels in the Revell '69 yet, but I remember seeing the optional wheels in the '68 and not being able to decide if they were trying to be SS/Magnum 500s or Cragar S/S. 

[Rodent]

18 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

I haven't seen a good pics of the wheels in the Revell '69 yet, but I remember seeing the optional wheels in the '68 and not being able to decide if they were trying to be SS/Magnum 500s or Cragar S/S.

The wheels are the same in both kits. One set of "disc brake wheels" and one set of Magnums.

[tbill]

I could be totally wrong, but the only ‘road wheel’ I’ve seen from GM with no trim ring was on the Pontiac GTO.

[Rob Hall]

3 hours ago, tbill said:

I could be totally wrong, but the only ‘road wheel’ I’ve seen from GM with no trim ring was on the Pontiac GTO.

The Buick Road Wheels didn’t have trim rings, I think. 

[SteveG]

On 8/2/2020 at 4:36 PM, Rodent said:

It looks to me based on Steve's photo above that there is a extra piece of trim molded just above the bumper and below the tail lamps that doesn't exist in my reference photos which is placing the bumper noticeably lower then it should be.   I don't have a kit in hand yet but here's a good 1:1 photo for comparison.  Does anyone else see what I'm talking about ? 

-Steve

 

[Spruslayer]

Thats what i see, i dont have this kit yet  but its in the que to add to the stash.Im thinkin try to cut the bumper off the tail lights and remove the extra space?Lookin forwad to see how folks handel this.

12 minutes ago, SteveG said:

It looks to me based on Steve's photo above that there is a extra piece of trim molded just above the bumper and below the tail lamps that doesn't exist in my reference photos which is placing the bumper noticeably lower then it should be.   I don't have a kit in hand yet but here's a good 1:1 photo for comparison.  Does anyone else see what I'm talking about ? 

-Steve

 

 

[tbill]

I busted open a kit and took a look. There is a gap between the top of the bumper and the bottom of the tail lamps/trim that looks as though it should not be there. This is causing the gap under the tail lamp caps you see from the side. Thought of cutting the bumper off and moving it upwards , but then that would leave a gap under the bumper where it meets the end of the lower portion of the quarter panel. I suppose you could cut the bumper off, then taper the lower quarters to meet the new bumper height, but that could throw the look off even more. Need to hunt down a good side picture and compare the quarter panel taper in that area.

 

[tbill]

After a quick photo search, there is a noticeable gap in this area on the 1:1, more noticeable on lighter color cars.

(all pics in this post borrowed from the internet )

 

 

[Rodent]

2 hours ago, tbill said:

After a quick photo search, there is a noticeable gap in this area on the 1:1, more noticeable on lighter color cars.

(all pics in this post borrowed from the internet )

 

 

The gap on the model is 1 1/2 to 2 times the height of the side marker lamp for size comparison purposes. None of the 1:1s have anything near that much gap. It's body colored sheetmetal under there, so that is why it is more noticeable with lighter colors on 1:1, especially restored cars that are clean in there.

I have trimmed the taillamp openings a bit on mine, also the bottom lip of the decklid. The taillamps fit the body much better and the gap is lessened. My trimming has made the bottom of the taillamp flush with the quarter endcap, as it should be. Not sure what the next step is though. I may separate the bumper and make a new, smaller filler panel and call it good. The bumper doesn't hang below the quarter on the 1:1, so moving it up a little (not flush with the taillamp bottoms) may make it acceptable.

[yellowsportwagon]

On 8/14/2020 at 7:48 PM, Rob Hall said:

The Buick Road Wheels didn’t have trim rings, I think. 

Some Buick Abody wheels had trim rings some did not. Depended on year and option package. No Buick full size car road wheels ever had trim rings.

[randyc]

Buick wheels were a different shape and appearance altogether from what I've seen.  Sorta like Magnums, but not quite.   And I can't find any reference that says the Chevy wheels were ever all chrome.   Steel painted centers with trim rings is all I can find.  I can't find anything that says anything else was available, either - like the rally wheels.    Of course, I am supposing there were options.   But can't find a restored or original photo with all chrome wheels.   I found a set of magnum 500s ina Roadrunner/GTX/Coronet SuperBee that has what looks correct for a 69 SS396.  I can swap the wheels.   I'll have photos when I get to the detailing part on those wheels.  

[drodg]

On 8/14/2020 at 9:16 AM, Snake45 said:

I've used them, but the '69 SS wheels have always had a weird curvature to the spokes, and I'm not sure the rim area is right on them. 

I think the ones in the AMT '70 are better. 

I haven't seen a good pics of the wheels in the Revell '69 yet, but I remember seeing the optional wheels in the '68 and not being able to decide if they were trying to be SS/Magnum 500s or Cragar S/S. 

Thanks

[randyc]

On 8/14/2020 at 10:16 AM, Snake45 said:

I've used them, but the '69 SS wheels have always had a weird curvature to the spokes, and I'm not sure the rim area is right on them. 

I think the ones in the AMT '70 are better. 

I haven't seen a good pics of the wheels in the Revell '69 yet, but I remember seeing the optional wheels in the '68 and not being able to decide if they were trying to be SS/Magnum 500s or Cragar S/S. 

Here's the Revell kit parts.  I say they are incorrect.  Unless you strip them and paint them.  And then they are missing the trim rings that every photo of a "correct" 69 SS396 has.  Same wheels from the 68 kit as far as I know.

 

[Snake45]

49 minutes ago, randyc said:

I can't find anything that says anything else was available, either - like the rally wheels.    Of course, I am supposing there were options.  

The argent-painted Mag500s were standard on all '69 SS396s AFAIK. BUT if you had ordered your car with COPO 9737, it would have come through on 15x7 Rallys (like the Yenkos). 

I've never seen or heard of a "regular" '69 SS396 ordered with COPO 9737, but that doesn't mean it didn't happen. It's very theoretically possible. If the no-trim-rings thing bothers you, use Rallys and tell 'em your model is a rare COPO 9737. 

[espo]

There has been a lot of discussion about the rear Bumper position on this kit. When I look at it I have to agree that the Bumper should sit higher or closer to the Tail Lights and rear Body Panel based on what I see in the pictures of 1:1 cars here. What I have noticed based again on these pictures is that the rear Bumper doesn't come all the way down to the bottom edge of the rear Quarter Panels. Looking at the pictures of both the blue Chevelle and the lt. Metallic Green SS395 it appears that the lower edge of the Quarter Panel is actually lower than the rear Bumper. Depending on the angle in my mind it looks as if you could draw a line from the bottom edge of the body panel and it would align with the rear most edge of the Bumper. This would put the leading edge of the Bumper just above the body panel where they meet.  

[Rodent]

3 hours ago, randyc said:

I can't find anything that says anything else was available, either - like the rally wheels. 

The 14" slotted rally wheels were optional on the "regular" Malibu in 1969.