89AKurt Posted June 12, 2022 Author Posted June 12, 2022 Didn't work on this because I went up to Page with my mom for my birthday. This is west, Paria townsite, and was also a movie set in this area. The lack of steering components was bugging me. Again, not an engineer, just faking a rack and pinion, it's in an unusual position due to the original steering shaft angle, and the way the Honda engine occupied space. Used the cordless drill to turn the boots, and the pinion part. Fabricated universal joints, using aluminum plate and brass rod. Coffee can lid steering arms, just a really simple brass rod arm, I know it looks hokey but it's not really prominent (I hope). After I test fit the body (for the hundredth time), discovered it was a waste of time doing the uni-joint behind the dash. Ditched one of the heater ducts. Filled the gaps in the firewall. Used aluminum plate to make exhaust pipe hangers. Added brake cooling ducts, using Plastruct tube. Added hood hinges, using watch fusee chain. The original hinge was at the front, switched to the back. A prop rod will be made. How I manage to build anything with such a disaster of a bench..... ? Made the anti-sway bar from brass rod, with wire insulation bushing, aluminum plate mounts on the A-arm. Thought there should be a brace, so used plastic rod. Will make bar retainers from aluminum plate. 1
David G. Posted June 12, 2022 Posted June 12, 2022 Wow! ? I don't even know where to begin, that's one heckuva lot of modification work! It's all way beyond impressive. David G.
cobraman Posted June 12, 2022 Posted June 12, 2022 6 hours ago, 89AKurt said: Didn't work on this because I went up to Page with my mom for my birthday. This is west, Paria townsite, and was also a movie set in this area. The lack of steering components was bugging me. Again, not an engineer, just faking a rack and pinion, it's in an unusual position due to the original steering shaft angle, and the way the Honda engine occupied space. Used the cordless drill to turn the boots, and the pinion part. Fabricated universal joints, using aluminum plate and brass rod. Coffee can lid steering arms, just a really simple brass rod arm, I know it looks hokey but it's not really prominent (I hope). After I test fit the body (for the hundredth time), discovered it was a waste of time doing the uni-joint behind the dash. Ditched one of the heater ducts. Filled the gaps in the firewall. Used aluminum plate to make exhaust pipe hangers. Added brake cooling ducts, using Plastruct tube. Added hood hinges, using watch fusee chain. The original hinge was at the front, switched to the back. A prop rod will be made. How I manage to build anything with such a disaster of a bench..... ? Made the anti-sway bar from brass rod, with wire insulation bushing, aluminum plate mounts on the A-arm. Thought there should be a brace, so used plastic rod. Will make bar retainers from aluminum plate. Your bench looks fine to me ! ? 1
89AKurt Posted June 13, 2022 Author Posted June 13, 2022 I've dedicated most of my time (other than basic survival stuff) this weekend on this project, in the possessed/obsessed mode. Thanks Carl! Brake calipers, started with a disk, divided into quarters, punched disks to indicate 3 pot front and 2 for the rear. Not concerned with accuracy or detail.... .... because the wheels obscure so much. Started on the interior. Drilled holes for toggle switches. Drilled bigger holes for Detail Master speakers, will back with black paper. Drilled another hole for the fuel filler, which is a resin copy of the Isuzu Vehicross which I use all the time. Made a rendition of a modern radio face, which covers the 190SL on the dash which is not accurate. Fabricated pedal arms out of coffee can steel, used Detail Master early design photo-etch, narrowed one pedal for the gas. All of this is barely glued together, will straighten up during final assembly. Piping on the seats is thin solder wire, got from a vendor at a Phoenix model show. This is actually fun, the bottom part had a perfect ledge, so that went quickly. Started the top part at the center, then worked down, that took some careful placement. I've used stretched sprue and copper wire before, this solder is the bomb. Made a brake master cylinder, looked at what Wilwood offers, there were more non-power units so I figured for this little car it would work. Made a hood prop rod. Getting it together without gluing for the pictures was a pain, so you better like it! I broke the windshield frame at the center, made an aluminum splice piece with a drilled hole to fit a wire into, the real car has a rod in the center. Maybe I'll make headrests tonight, otherwise it's been a long day and my eyes are unable to focus anymore. 1
Raoul Ross Posted June 13, 2022 Posted June 13, 2022 (edited) I like that you're using the same circuit board holder I am. Used it to lay down decals on a P-47 I'm doing, werkt the treat! Anyway, Carry On! Love your work! Edited June 13, 2022 by Raoul Ross 2
89AKurt Posted June 13, 2022 Author Posted June 13, 2022 3 hours ago, Raoul Ross said: I like that you're using the same circuit board holder I am. Used it to lay down decals on a P-47 I'm doing, werkt the treat! Anyway, Carry On! Love your work! [...] Looks like you made something at each end, I think each project may need that. I might try epoxy putty. Got the headrests done. I keep the big part of the sprue where the plastic is injected, the blue one came from the Tamiya Subaru that I built last year, so hope that brings good luck. ? Now I'm hitting the sack. ? 1
Bainford Posted June 13, 2022 Posted June 13, 2022 It's coming along great, Kurt. I like your simple brake calipers, they would make a nice addition to a lot of kits. I like the seat piping, too. 1
89AKurt Posted June 13, 2022 Author Posted June 13, 2022 2 hours ago, Bainford said: It's coming along great, Kurt. I like your simple brake calipers, they would make a nice addition to a lot of kits. I like the seat piping, too. Thank you! I believe in the KISS principal (keep it simple stupid).
89AKurt Posted June 14, 2022 Author Posted June 14, 2022 New gear shift and parking brake. Used regular straight pins, the oldest detail thing used for model cars. Wine bottle lead foil, which I need to find if that's still being used.
David G. Posted June 14, 2022 Posted June 14, 2022 A true tour-de-force of kit-bashing! Thanks for taking the time to post this thread. David G. 1
John B. Posted June 14, 2022 Posted June 14, 2022 Very nice - looks like a scale version of a Chip Foose "Overhaulin" build! 1
89AKurt Posted June 14, 2022 Author Posted June 14, 2022 4 hours ago, David G. said: A true tour-de-force of kit-bashing! Thanks for taking the time to post this thread. David G. Thanks for saying that. I'm not trying to be an attention hog, just like showing the process on how to milk out a build forever. 4 hours ago, John B. said: Very nice - looks like a scale version of a Chip Foose "Overhaulin" build! Thanks! But I need to add some drama like a reality TV show. I'm thinking about modernizing the headlights. I don't like the chrome dome parts in the kit, will hog out the lens. Just checked out the eBay listings for 7" diameter, holy cow didn't know there are so many of these Star Wars lights available! So I'm thinking of getting these reduced to size, printed out, just need clear lens, should be good enough. First choices: But when I saw this, think it's perfect! Can get rid of the turn signal chrome domes.
Monty Posted June 14, 2022 Posted June 14, 2022 I'm really enjoying seeing all the fabrication and innovation going on in this thread. Once completed, this will be an outstanding build. Quick question: what did you use to bend the brass that precisely. I've got a GM car that really needs a better rear sway bar, and it looks like you've mastered the technique. PS As king of the rivet counters, I'm beggin' ya to get rid of the raised lettering on the chassis. My fingers keep clawing at my monitor 1
gbtr6 Posted June 14, 2022 Posted June 14, 2022 Very cool. When I heard restomod I remembered this one, It's a 300 SL, but you get the idea. Perry 1
89AKurt Posted June 15, 2022 Author Posted June 15, 2022 7 hours ago, Monty said: I'm really enjoying seeing all the fabrication and innovation going on in this thread. Once completed, this will be an outstanding build. [...] Quick question: what did you use to bend the brass that precisely. I've got a GM car that really needs a better rear sway bar, and it looks like you've mastered the technique. PS As king of the rivet counters, I'm beggin' ya to get rid of the raised lettering on the chassis. My fingers keep clawing at my monitor Thank you. Too bad the paper towel is over the pliers in my cluttered bench picture, the tips are round and tapered, not flat, I learned to not have a death grip which dents the wire. It's difficult to match the other side, I still struggle with that. Look in the bead section of the craft store for wire bending pliers. And no, for this project that is built for the Cannonball - Year Of Your Birth community build, that is staying on. I usually remove such script. Now I think I'll paint the letters just to trigger everyone even more. ? 6 hours ago, gbtr6 said: Very cool. When I heard restomod I remembered this one, It's a 300 SL, but you get the idea. [...] That particular car was the primary inspiration! Okay, I usually don't poll people for opinions, because there is always someone who gives a third option without thinking that you need to buy more stuff. I have lots of paint, pearl purple (I have 5 different paints) just won't look right on this car, I don't want to do silver, or red. Narrowed it down to two themes: A - Subtle period correct blue for VW Beetle, not as boring as Panzer grey, or bright like American cars of the time. I have not used this surfacer primer before, could use Tamiya grey primer. Interior - regular leather, safe choice, not too dark to be a waffle iron in the summer, want to try a technique I found out about recently on this forum. Wheels - I've used this aluminum before, it's nice paint. B - I've done two models in pearl white, and my daily driver is, so I should be bored with it, but I think it will look good, and will fit the Snowball name (license plate SNOBAL). Tamiya white primer is good stuff, but will still do the surfacer first. Interior - Dark red, used this paint on the 250LM, worked well. Wheels - Polished aluminum. I'm debating whether to have carpet on the floor, either black which I have, or matching the seats painted flocked panels. Dashboard seems to be whatever one wanted, generic is ivory. Thinking the trunk could be bare paint, or carpeted, depends if I want to add something else besides the spare tire. Sway bar gloss black, or red. Will be thinking about this, when I sand everything I made which will take forever. I could switch the wheel color choice, but think BBS gold is not an option. Now I see that sun visors need to be made. Debating about making a cooler for Monster energy drinks, since I have a bunch of labels left over from last year. Need to go back to the engine bay to finalize details such as the battery, radiator hoses, heater hoses, a few wires with a big one to the computer module, should I make horns?
David G. Posted June 15, 2022 Posted June 15, 2022 It's a tough call but I'm leaning toward option A. To my eye it puts the contrasts in the right locations. David G. 1
gbtr6 Posted June 15, 2022 Posted June 15, 2022 I like option A. That subtle blue/gray you see now is really nice. Perry 1
jaymcminn Posted June 15, 2022 Posted June 15, 2022 Exterior color A, interior color B. As long as you're making visors anyway, make them out of transparent green styrene. Very classic look. 2
89AKurt Posted June 18, 2022 Author Posted June 18, 2022 On 6/15/2022 at 4:45 AM, David G. said: It's a tough call but I'm leaning toward option A. To my eye it puts the contrasts in the right locations. David G. Thank you. On 6/15/2022 at 6:57 AM, gbtr6 said: I like option A. That subtle blue/gray you see now is really nice. Perry Thank you. On 6/15/2022 at 4:49 PM, jaymcminn said: Exterior color A, interior color B. As long as you're making visors anyway, make them out of transparent green styrene. Very classic look. That works too, considering it. Now you suggested an idea, that is another modification. I looked at Hobby Lobby's website, and eBay, and didn't find anything. When I was at the drafting board today, looked up at the plumbing and circle templates that I have used for half a century, and thought HELLO!! Someone gave me some templates that I wasn't using, so polished the side with the markings. This evening I made details with guitar string wire, and aluminum newspaper printing plate. One of my favorite things to make is retractible radio antennas. I could have updated with a modern shark fin antenna, but I *had to* make this. Also added wire for the battery holdown. Made a license plate mount, that swings up, there is allegedly an r/c servo that moves it down when the ignition is on, and swings it up when parked. Made the sun visors so they will move. Here are the tools used (plus Dremel). Brush painted Tamiya primer on the putty areas. This weekend I will take everything apart, and sand everything I fabricated. Hope to start painting soon!
David G. Posted June 18, 2022 Posted June 18, 2022 Wow! That's an impressive array of enhancements! It's often the smallest details that have the greatest impact. David G. 1
dino246gt Posted June 18, 2022 Posted June 18, 2022 Looking great now, and those transparent green visors are so cool! Tons of bodywork all very nicely thought out and executed! I did a restomod Gullwing Merc, it was so much fun! I hope you're enjoying your build, it sure looks like you are, and so are we watching! Cheers! 1
Koellefornia Kid Posted June 18, 2022 Posted June 18, 2022 Can't wait to see it finished! 'Awesome work so far! 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now