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Gloss clear lacquer what are you using


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Tamiya LP-9 clear gloss lacquer is a new favorite (the entire line of colors is great, I like mixing colors from them like I used to do decades ago with Testors enamels). Mr. Hobby #46 solvent-based clear is excellent as well; it was my go-to clear before the LP line arrived. Both dry rapidly and polish beautifully. One reason I prefer these two clears is that they are friendly with most lacquer based paints including aftermarket colors and are plastic-friendly. 

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My favorite is Tamiya TS-13. I know it's in a rattle can but I just decant it let it sit for a few hours for the propellent to gas off then put it through the airbrush , thinned or as is what ever works best. I always decant more then I need so seal up the bottle until I need it again. A few years back I bought a few dozen Badger bottles to store extra paint in. I decant by having a number of Tamiya spray nozzles with a short piece of flexi straw glued to them so the paint dribbles out rather then spraying out in a blast. I clean the new nozzle out by forcing a little lacquer thinner down the straw till it comes out clean from the base of the can nozzle. For clears I keep a few of my created nozzles for only clear paint to ensure no colour gets mixed in.

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19 hours ago, robertw said:

My favorite is Tamiya TS-13. I know it's in a rattle can but I just decant it let it sit for a few hours for the propellent to gas off then put it through the airbrush , thinned or as is what ever works best. I always decant more then I need so seal up the bottle until I need it again. A few years back I bought a few dozen Badger bottles to store extra paint in. I decant by having a number of Tamiya spray nozzles with a short piece of flexi straw glued to them so the paint dribbles out rather then spraying out in a blast. I clean the new nozzle out by forcing a little lacquer thinner down the straw till it comes out clean from the base of the can nozzle. For clears I keep a few of my created nozzles for only clear paint to ensure no colour gets mixed in.

I decant the paint into a small bottle and put it into a cup with about a half inch of hot water. Once it looks like the bubbles are gone, I screw the cap onto the bottle and shake it to make sure the bubbles are gone. It only takes about 5 minutes to gas out.

Mike

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On 7/18/2022 at 1:36 PM, Zoom Zoom said:

Tamiya LP-9 clear gloss lacquer is a new favorite (the entire line of colors is great, I like mixing colors from them like I used to do decades ago with Testors enamels). Mr. Hobby #46 solvent-based clear is excellent as well; it was my go-to clear before the LP line arrived. Both dry rapidly and polish beautifully. One reason I prefer these two clears is that they are friendly with most lacquer based paints including aftermarket colors and are plastic-friendly. 

Does the Tamiya LP paint smell like their spray can paint?  

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30 minutes ago, stevez said:

Does the Tamiya LP paint smell like their spray can paint?  

I haven't compared directly but it seems different. I've painted/cleared several models recently with LP's, there's a link in my signature to see them in my Fotki albums. 

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6 minutes ago, Zoom Zoom said:

I haven't compared directly but it seems different. I've painted/cleared several models recently with LP's, there's a link in my signature to see them in my Fotki albums. 

Good, I can't take the Tamiya spray can odor even wearing a respirator. 

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8 minutes ago, Zoom Zoom said:

I haven't compared directly but it seems different. I've painted/cleared several models recently with LP's, there's a link in my signature to see them in my Fotki albums. 

How much thinner? Do you use Tamiya thinner retarder?

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31 minutes ago, stevez said:

How much thinner? Do you use Tamiya thinner retarder?

It can vary, some say what's in a fresh jar doesn't seem full and they add thinner to make the jar seem more full. Read Tamiya's information:

Tamiya Blog LP Paint compatibility

A good video tutorial on YT that was linked from the Tamiya Blog:

Video Tutorial

I've thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner and Mr. Hobby Mr. Color Thinner and Mr. Leveling Thinner (with retarder).

Any lacquer hobby paint I've tried has a strong odor. I used to decant/airbrush TS paints but after it's thinned a bit to flow nicely through my setup it cures rather soft, especially TS-13 clear. The LP's cure completely and don't get sticky from handing, they polish out beautifully. 

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18 hours ago, Zoom Zoom said:

It can vary, some say what's in a fresh jar doesn't seem full and they add thinner to make the jar seem more full. Read Tamiya's information:

Tamiya Blog LP Paint compatibility

A good video tutorial on YT that was linked from the Tamiya Blog:

Video Tutorial

I've thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner and Mr. Hobby Mr. Color Thinner and Mr. Leveling Thinner (with retarder).

Any lacquer hobby paint I've tried has a strong odor. I used to decant/airbrush TS paints but after it's thinned a bit to flow nicely through my setup it cures rather soft, especially TS-13 clear. The LP's cure completely and don't get sticky from handing, they polish out beautifully. 

Thanks 👍🙏

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6 hours ago, Ben Brown said:

I use Mr Color clears, although I recently tried Tamiya’s LP semi gloss clear on an airplane. You can’t go wrong with either brand. Tamiya requires less thinner than Mr Color. I thin both with Mr Leveling Thinner.
Ben

MLT seems the way to go. thanks 👍

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My favorite clear coat on car models for years was Tamiya TS-13 gloss lacquer but I never had much luck spraying it over decals (the solvents in the lacquer can sometimes attack decals when a heavy “wet coat” is applied). I switched over to Mr. Color “UV Cut GX” (GX113) clear lacquer thinned with Mr. Color self-leveling thinner, airbrushed. It seems to work as well as TS-13 without any decal damage, even when a heavy wet coat is applied. I haven’t tried polishing it wet so I don’t know if it will polish up as well as other lacquers or acrylic clear coats. 
The “2k” two-part urethane clear coats look fantastic and are decal-friendly but I’ve avoided using them due to the health hazard issues. 

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I use whatever base coat fits my color needs, then usually go with PPG 660 clear (or 661 spot clear) which is a 2K auto finish. Only hazard to my kit is getting it too thick, but at shows everyone wants to know how I get it so shiny -- which flies in the face of the squeamish-ness about 'non-scale' thickness, I suppose.  I have tried U-Pol rattle-can clear, which so far seems okay (easier -- if that's my goal) because I know lots of body shops use it.  Haven't used lacquer clear for some time, as like the old synthetic enamels, it tends to darken over light undercoats.  I have an OLD Mono Avanti that I did in white that now is yellow.  Just my angle...  Wick

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On 7/23/2022 at 8:24 AM, Zippi said:

My last paint job on my 37 Ford pickup I used the Tamiya acrylic X-22 clear shot through my airbrush.  I mixed it 2-1 with Mr. Color Leveling thinner.  Turned out great.  

20220719_113037.jpg.a6e9f3cb7a8d69a548173afaf74f67ed.jpg

20220719_113126.jpg.4f215f9846f0df7421d54e9d39d05c8a.jpg

2-1 which way Zip ?

Awesome blue !

Edited by Dave G.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Very nice looking paint, but there is a slight texture, probably inherent in the paint. I don't clear everything, but I think a clear would finish off that paint job very nicely. A couple coats of clear and some light, fine colour sanding or an application of cream polish and that paint will look like a million bucks.

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On 8/3/2022 at 2:51 PM, Bainford said:

Very nice looking paint, but there is a slight texture, probably inherent in the paint. I don't clear everything, but I think a clear would finish off that paint job very nicely. A couple coats of clear and some light, fine colour sanding or an application of cream polish and that paint will look like a million bucks.

+1 to clear coat 

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