blunc

excellent work on your "comeback" build. I have another tip for you if you plan on using that style of fan again, the line etched in the fan blades is the point which the blade should be bent backwards to form a propeller like blade. A google search for automotive flex fans should give you an idea what they should look like. the current configuration would not pull any air through the radiator while the car is sitting still.

this will be a useless post, you have been warned. it really doesn't matter when the OHV design was introduced, there was confusion/lack of knowledge as to what OHV was. I think that's been covered well enough for now.

thanx for the extra pix, just seeing how a scratch built part starts out will inspire others to attempt crafting their own parts.

I have to wonder if the performance gains from the turbos are offset but all the weight of of all that extra plumbing. Does it really need two Holley carbs to feed that little flat four?

what kit did the dirt track tires come from?

I believe a "simplified" explanation to the term OHV (over head valve) is that many (if not all) flat head engines (straight and "V" style engines) had the valves located in the engine block. This may have simplified construction of the motors but was very un-fun when it came to setting valve lash. Overhead cam motors reduce the amount of reciprocating objects (that waste power/energy) that need to be lubricated with a rotational object (the overhead cam) that does the same task while reducing the loss of power/energy due to objects that have to change direction up to umpteen times a second. The overhead cam can also apply more force to the valves/valve springs without bending like valve push rods can do.

she's a beauty. I agree about the windscreen also...the rear of the car could do with a little lowering if you intend to match the ride height of the 1:1.

that is a beautifully engineered and executed build. You should consider taking it to the GSLMCC. Can you post more close detail shots of the motor please? I have only one "rivet" to suggest on future builds, I figure a few builders will roll their eyes at this but there are a few that won't... Admittedly this is a mechanical "real world" issue but since it looks like you're going for real world detail here is the issue I noticed: "universal joint timing", it's making sure the universal joints on both ends of a rotating shaft are properly aligned. in real world application failure to do this will cause vibration, wobble and u-joint failure.

I think micromark carries several types/sizes of bulbs, don't know if they carry LED's.

shaping up nicely.

maybe they need to change the phrase to "No idiot left behind." however, I have just violated the thread so I will say that the noisy dogs on the property next to me reduced the amount of rest I needed from my nap before work to the point that I am considering animal abuse...I'm going to figure out a way to keep them from sleeping. there...back on thread track.

that is an impressive rendition of what I would consider a mid to late 30's "dream machine", even though it's listed as a '46 design, it has many styling cues seen in the 30's. I'd guess Mr. Paige had been working on this when things got stupid in Europe and Asia and it got put on hold till after the war, by then GI's were returning from the war with money in their pockets and wanting to live a little.

well, since the Miami Vice Daytona's were fiberglas over a Vette chassis it's the proper engine for this build. I like the treatment on the seats also.

pontiac 350 was standard issue in the Esprits (as far as I know). which means just about any pontiac kit v8 will do depending on how blobular you can stand.

I have gotten the impression that slot car racing may be popular over in the UK, you should be able to source some wheel/tire sets local to you. Here is just one of the many sites that carries slot car parts: http://chicagolandtoysandhobbies.com/Slot-Cars-1-32-Parts-Wheels/ I mounted a set of BRM wheels on this 34 Ford.

he didn't put the primary and secondary accelerator pump levers on either but I was gonna let that slide...this time. although if he forgets to put a fuel filter on, that carb will be flooding in no time.

SWEET!!! more small scale stuff. looks like a fun kit bash. 1/32 scale slot car wheel/tires would really knock this out of the park.

nice start. if that's a cummins engine, they are traditionally dark mustard yellow, kinda like gray pupon. this will probly get moved to the "big rig" section of the forums.

Steve is correct, shouldn't be too hard to fix as long as the wires aren't glued into the heads but at least one wire will be too short to move to the proper position unless you inserted extra plug wire into the head. If you decide to start over with another block, you may want to reduce the thickness of the valve cover bolt flanges...they're cast a little on the thick side on your current set of valve covers. If it's not worth fixing, that's okay too...it still looks good.

that's a great looking engine bay.

I say good enuf.

but if the Kardashian's are gone you'll have to go back to watching Jerry Springer.

that's a lot of nice work in a small space. the reference photos make it look like you forgot to remove the mold lines on the coils...unless that is an option not shown in the pix.

Meow baby!

I like the sweptside, been wishing for an early mopar truck for a while, even a 1/25 scale powerwagon would be nice.