blunc

I like the sweptside, been wishing for an early mopar truck for a while, even a 1/25 scale powerwagon would be nice.

nice carb work. the secondary boost venturi and air horn (choke plate assembly) really add a lot to this blob. is that a dual point distributor or will you be adding a vac advance unit?

are all these mods done by persons wearing white 3-finger gloves and work at Disneyland?

keep it up, I like shop stuff.

looking great. a couple tips to apply to your next build... the spark plug wire boots on the dist cap are usually half the size as you made on this build. the top tank on the radiator (and radiator cap) has a mold line that is usually not present on real cars.

yeah...wasps with really bad attitudes.

my bad, couldn't see the starter well enough. nice work.

it's like COMDEX...only for cars and stuff. I would like to experience SEMA at least once but I'm in the wrong industry for that.

IMHO the Modelhaus replacement glass will be better looking than kit glass anyway due to thinner clear plastic...and they won't make you jump through hoops to get a free replacement

looks great with one exception, the starter appears to be sitting too high, it should line up with the bulge in the bell housing/flywheel cover.

Here is a shot to help detail the carb (minus the auto-trans kickdown rod farthest to the right). Notice the color of the carb...flat aluminum instead of the anodized finish seen on Holley and Rochester carbs. A PCV valve and hose going from the carb to a valve cover is easy to do and will help add some realism. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=qqgoghnpinui2eeh16imuu70r3&action=dlattach;topic=100780.0;attach=196010;image

Sounds like your family is lucky to have you.

they appear facetted but they're so small that it doesn't seem to matter.

I keep checking to see if they have "non-facetted" versions of those rhinestones but have yet to find any. I have a hard time forcing myself to use red bumps that don't actually look like tail light lens.

window mounted AC unit.

Byron, I noticed in your photo of the exhaust system that mold lines were still present on the mufflers and tail pipes, the appearance of these will be enhanced (and more proper) if the mold lines are removed (if you haven't already done this).

well, I suppose I should go next year since Art is gonna be there. we could have a new competition, assemble a snap together while driving a kart. the most complete snap together with the most laps wins bragging rights.

I have to agree..you need help. that 4 cyl should have been double overhead cam.

anyone that uses the "What? You play with toys?" line on me gets this response: "No, I create 3D sculptures out of plastic, metal and various other materials and paints...and they usually end up looking like cars. Now tell me, is there anything YOU can make without step by step instructions and somebody to walk you through each step so you don't screw it up?" I usually listen to their response to see if they are worth talking to at all.

JB, if this is a finished build, I suggest noting the problem and move on to your next build. this is a minor issue that occurred after the build was done...no need to fix unless you're gonna put it in the GSLMCC. I have read that some tires will react/melt to the plastic in the wheels unless the wheel plastic has been sealed or blocked with BMF, this may be what happened.

hey now...don't go raging on painted marker lights, some builders are having fun painting them body color. (don't mind me, I just felt like poking some thin skinned porcupines...I can feel their quills standing up already.)

nice conversion, it's nice to see someone other than me working in 1/32 scale.

having worked in the electronics industry for a while, I had to get "good" tweezers of various shapes/sizes to perform my work properly. The brand I prefer to use is Excelta ( http://www.excelta.com/ ), I'm sure there are other brands...I just don't need to explore their products. It takes a LOT to abuse/deform their Cobaltima line of tweezers, I know this because I used them in a production environment. They are not cheap but you shouldn't have to replace them.

maybe this thread should get "pinned" in the tips & tutorials section.

you left out the following: cheese head, stupido, doody-head and shite-head