blunc

I'm really wishing they would market the wheel sets from Lil Coffin, Little Deuce and Blue Beetle.

lots of great work on this model. I too would have suggested rethinking the placement of the door handles. A full size custom of this complexity most likely would not have door handles at all.

I've got a 1/48 B17G I'm not doing anything with...

I've been getting no bench time due to crappy work schedule and household projects that are in the "have to do" category rather than model crafting which is in the "I really want to build/finish something" category. however, I'm getting close to the point that I can get some bench time in and do something with all the ideas and parts I've been acquiring.

I had heard of the Playboy cars but I didn't search far enough back on google to capture this eyesore.

I was merely directing you to the part of this forum that has already covered the info you are requesting. I apologize if you feel that was offensive. the Tips, Tricks and Tutorials thread is a great resource, I invite you to use it.

I have to stop playing this round for now....there are just tooooo many ugly cars out there to scan through.

there are already several threads covering these topics, a lot of info is already here. not being snarky, just suggesting you read what's already been discussed then ask questions for anything not already covered. check the tips, tricks and tutorials thread for answers to your question.

not disputing you Bill, thanx for the info. I had guessed that rochester had been standardized on GM equipment by then....bad guess on my part. now...if I had ever gotten the chance to work on an early vette I would have known this already. the main 3 carb setups I've gotten to work on was when my painter buddy converted his 69 firebird to a tri-power, although I had dyno-tuned a tri-power '66 GTO previously, I still get goose bumps when I recall the sound of opening the dump carbs during the full power check. it was a little unnerving being bent over the fender of a car ( to tweak the distributor into the sweet spot) that was trying it's hardest to escape the wheel chalks.

please try to shame the leg humpers as little as possible. is it time to lock this thread yet?

well, barf !!!! some people take all the fun out of teh interwebs. (this was made in jest...just in case anyone missed that aspect)

corel is the current publisher of paintshop pro, they've been running special prices on it recently so you might get it for a good price.

I use PaintShop Pro, currently have version4 but version-5 looks like it has some nifty new features. it's a bargain compared to Photoshop and it's good (and relatively easy to use) for non-professional users. I believe Harry uses a real professionals program, Photoshop. my hat's off to real photoshop users but usually it takes a real need (and usually a LOT of time) to learn how to use photoshop to it's fullest.

dang, that's a new one on me, I hadn't heard about carter side drafts before. they definitely look different than rochester side draft carbs. my google image search turned up references to carter side draft carbs being used on corvairs, I've never seen that type on corvettes so I'd say that the corvettes had rochester side draft if side draft were used.

oddly, it does look like something got left out of the kit for the front suspension, steering linkage and stabilizing suspension parts seem to be missing (from what would be on a real car...) nice work on the engine detail. may I suggest (in the future) sanding off the mold flash (the raised line that runs the entire length of the leaf springs, on the differential assembly) if you want to have it look like a real car... not that I'm criticizing or anything like that...just in case you haven't seen what leaf springs look like....

I betting if you can make a frame from scratch that you can come close to making hinges similar to the real hinges.

if you haven't done it already, I suggest adding some internal bracing to the body since it will be very fragile with the doors/trunk cut out and the roof dropped a bit. it would be a shame for it to go all to pieces after this much work. I have a small scale TA that I'm leaving "cutting the trunk open" till after I've completed all the door panel fitting and interior work since I have to do a bunch of fitting/testing/disassembly during this process.

and be careful how you handle those moldy boxes and kits, mold spores are bad for you even if you're healthy, in sickly/older people it can be a killer.

maybe a pic of the part will help identify what car it may have come from, that should narrow your search.

a superb replica, I agree, it deserves to be featured...(in any magazine)

Chris, next time you travel into Phoenix check out a place that's called SAS, they sell scraps and remnants of all kinds of fabric/thread/lace/trim.... for really amazing prices. I picked up some really nice leather scraps that I use for interiors/seats, I got a couple pounds of it for a few bucks many years ago and haven't come close to using it up yet. there are more than one SAS so you'll need to check for addresses.

it's probly got one of those new-fangled rear facing camera gadgets so it doesn't need mirrors.

I think the only way to improve on the dash would have been to use bare metal foil instead of silver paint. nice work on a tough old kit.

with all due respect to Rob and the person that he referenced to point out plug wire routing, I disagree with Rob's statement about 1:1 cars. Pontiac DID run their plug wires over the valve covers, I'm guessing in order to keep them as far away from the exhaust manifolds as possible. My advice is to leave the plug wires as they are unless you feel changing the routing fits your taste better. a lot of factory GM cars routed the plug wires over the valve covers and provided tabs on the covers for plug wire clips to maintain spacing and routing.

I have to say that I really enjoy Mr. Anderson's posts, I never know about the mechanicals of model T's and I found that fastinating...and useful should I ever build a stock Model T.