Daddyfink

And some 510's with a bit of "Flares"

Looks like a Hemi Under Glass chassis and a Corvair body. What a coincidence! I have both!

I bought some just to buy them and I doubt I will ever build them just considering the back log of kits I want to get to. But, if I get to them, they are fair game!

Wow, its kinda funny seeing what you guys are getting excited about. I guess living in Southern California makes one almost oblivious to these cars anymore.

Maybe what could have been if GM said yes to Shelby

It looks great! Nice job

Well, considering that the kit is in 1/25th, I would suggest the rear tires from a modern top fuel dragster or the wide MPC slicks from the early 70's that can be found in numerous drag and show cars. The rims are actually pretty accurate for the period. As for the engine, you can swap out any 1/25 scale hemi and dress it up with the kit supplied parts. The HEMI in these kits is a bit too narrow.

With a little inspiration, there is quite a bit you can do with this kit, just like the real ones! Surviving BRE Baja Racer Pete Brocks Personal 510 with Vette Engine in it And my friend Victors car with a Supercharged VG33E Xterra engine in it. The wheels are 15X8 in front and 15X9 in the rear. So yes, you can fit bigger wheels in them if you get creative!

To do the stock interior, I would just hunt down the tuner kit with the stock panels. The only other kits that have that dash are the Hasegawa Rally kit, the stock version of that kit and the 1600 Bluebird Doyusha kit that is pretty hard to find.

My real 510 is flared and I think it looks great. At least I can run bigger wheels!!

Just looking at the picture and noticing the huge video camera the guy is using, I would say late 80's or early 90's

The Tuner Series issue is the same as the Brock Buster issue, It was the street car version with a full interior. The BRE car has a race only style interior with a aluminum dash and aftermarket gauges. There was someone selling decals on eBay to build the Mike Downs car and the Bobby Allison version as well. I would like to see decals for the Bob Sharp/Paul Newman car

The car also ran Good Years and I am pretty sure I have a pic of the car with M&H tires on it as well, so I would not just stick to the Firestone tires if you have Good Years available.

You are truly scoring some really nice stuff, Rob! Way to go!

Fujimi wheels did the trick for me. They fit just fine and gave the car a great stance

I like Johnny Cash, but that song is horrible!

Very nice! That will look great in your already impressive collection!

That is sharp! Nice job!

Nice and sharp!

That is a cool car. Nice job!

I actually use both, mainly because Tamiya was not available for some time and now that I have testors, I might as well use it up. But, the Tamiya is easier to clean up and does not require much effort, plus, it is truly clear. I have had issues with the Testors in drying time and having to rub it out more than Tamiya. Wet look is just a tad thicker and that can really throw a wrench in the works when you are trying to control your amounts. I prefer Tamiya, and as they say, you get what you pay for.

I have had the cracking issue, but never had it pull paint. And I have sprayed it over Enamels and Acrylics. Spraying on too much at once or over paint that has not cured well can cause problems.

Labeling issues, and that is going from what I was told by the Tamiya folks. I have used their products before and after and have never noticed any changes in how the product worked.

I have cans with the stick on labels they had to do in a hurry to keep the stuff in the U.S. At one of the Tamiya Con shows, they where giving the paint away so they did not have to label it again! I easily went home with a few hundred bucks worth of paints! They have pulled other products as well just because of labeling issues with the EPA. Even their polishing compounds where once held back.

I use Tamiya and Testors Wet and I like them both, but, Tamiya does have an edge over it. Tamiya has to be mastered a bit, but once you figure it out, it is well worth it. As for the bubbling problem, the fix is to not press on the nozzle too long! Smooth and quick strokes are what is needed when applying Tamiya paints. Otherwise you will start loading up and getting sags, runs and bubbles. The paint is nice and thin and it comes out of the can rather quickly. If you can't handle that, then stick to the slower stuff. One of the biggest reasons Tamiya paint keeps going away is due to the EPA. I don't know how many times they have to keep re-labeling their products to meet their ever changing policies.