935k3

Nice job Jonathon. I built the racing wagon and sedan along time ago.

91% alcohol works well on Tamiya's lacquers.

That's a mean looking racecar. Great job.

The rear window is some kind of plastic that was yellow tinted. I airbrushed Tamiya acrylic clear yellow. I built the 1/12 years ago before digital cameras. It's a great kit especially for when it was made.I have new one to build and Tamiya's photo etch for it. The pics are from the Porsche museum and clearly show the yellow tint.

Her is mine. I tinted the rear window yellow(as on the real one) The rear ride height was lowered. Also pictured id the 1/20 935

I think the real culprit here is the blue paint is not adhering to the underlying white paint making it lift easily. What paints are you using?

which Paasche is it? If it's dual action it the packing seal the needle goes through. If it's the H single action the seal in the fluid tip.They are both adjustable by a straight screw driver

This works for Tamiya, Fujimi and Hasegawa. From our Brit freinds at britmodeller.com https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235008597-help-applying-tyre-decals-120-tamiya-fujimi/

Great model, well done. I love the GT3 class racing around the world

Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum is one of the best silvers in a spray can , small particle size and in scale. Decals stick well to it.

Try using a hot knife, cut as close as possible then the us a sanding stick. If you use a flush cutter keep the flush side towards the window or clear piece.

The great 3 time F1 champion Niki Lauda has passed away. http://www.gptoday.com/full_story/view/679839/BREAKING_NEWS_Niki_Lauda_has_passed_away_aged_70/

I can't wait to get one. Thanks Jonathan.

looks great. I'd blame the tripod effect on Revell.

I have used 91% alcohol on Duplicolor paints and their clear(not enamel). It started to work in 20 minutes. My general rules for stripping is lacquer use alcohol. All else Super Clean and sometimes Easy Off

The tire decal can be glued down with some Future on the back. I always coat the sidewall with Future applied with a Q-tip, let it dry then apply the decal and dull coat. The decals stick better to Future then a bare sidewall. I actually mask the wheel and airbrush a coat of TS-79 semi-gloss clear.

I have been using some of their metallics. There are very good and handle an mask well. I think they are lacquers. I thin them with acetone. I think I read they coming out with a line for model cars, they are mostly railroad colors. The firewall in the pic is their aluminium. Check out their website Tru-Color Paints

If you want your model to like a real car prime and paint it. If you want it to look like a plastic model don't paint it. The wash problems might be caused by bad molding of the part.

This guy is crazy Expensive Escort

No, it will not hurt clear parts either.

91% or higher isopropyl alcohol.

looking good. I really like the engine, colors used look great especially the exhaust

Take a look at furnace filters for use in these. For example mine uses a standard 20 X 20 filter

Try Alclad primer. It lays down smooth and sticks well. I have never had it lift. It is smoother than Tamiya fine primer. I shoot it at 16-18 PSI

For the front engined. Chevy made it official the rear engined car will be released on July 18 https://www.foxnews.com/auto/mid-engine-chevrolet-corvette-confirmed-for-2020-will-debut-july-18