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935k3

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Everything posted by 935k3

  1. 935k3
    try looking up some conversion charts and find something that. Mr Hobby paints are hard to find in the US.
  2. 935k3
    Once distribution happens there will be bottled lacquers from Tamiya. They will be LP-XXX numbers. Mixing Tamiya X-18 with their thinner X-20 makes a good wash for all paints. If you do use Panel Accent and get too much, wipe the brush dry and put it back in pane line and it will draw the excess back out. The Citadel stuff is good if you can find it.
  3. 935k3
    they are dry transfers like Tamiya's. Stick them then wet the paper to remove it.
  4. 935k3
    The cars that ran FIA races such as Lemans they were required. They were not required at Daytona
  5. 935k3
    wouzy woo woo
  6. 935k3
    You need to use a larger nozzle like a .35mm or .50 mm
  7. 935k3
    Plastruct is harder to find but is a better quality than Evergreen. It bends more without cracking.
  8. 935k3
    Use Lacquer Thinner instead.
  9. 935k3
    Hey watch this video on building a 250 replica. 250 GTO
  10. 935k3
    Great work and technique JC. I have found Plastruct better for bending, it does not beak as easily as Evergreen. Pinning really ads strength I use .020 " diameter brass wire from K&S
  11. 935k3
    The interior was done in Scale Motor Sports carbon. I think it was 41 separate pieces, templates made by tape.
  12. 935k3
    The older cars did just have the rubber seal which can be done by marker. The newer cars have blacked out areas on the window it self. They can be very wide on some cars like this Ford Fiesta WRC. Masking and painting are best for this and an air brush is the best for this.
  13. 935k3
    Great work so far. I built the racing longtail version. Make sure the base of the window cowling does not affect ride height. It took allot of work to get it setting right.
  14. 935k3
    Nothing beats masking and airbrushing. It can be time consuming though.
  15. 935k3
    I do nt have pics but I tested them and found them to be the best acrylics I have ever used
  16. 935k3
    Brass is better for small diameter or size parts. It will give a little without breaking part. I pin allot , it gives strength and makes assembly easier.
  17. 935k3
    NUNU kit. This kit has some really odd molding defects and flash for a new kit. I got the detail up set that has all the carbon decal for the chassis and photo-etch. I wrapped the fuel tubes in solder an painted to replicate the actual car.
  18. 935k3
    Decals,decals,decals and more decals on this BMW GT3
  19. 935k3
    Spray right into jar by regulating trigger pressure and holding jar at an angle.
  20. 935k3
    Tke a look at Tru-Color paints. Their metallics are great and very durable. the trailing arms on this Porsche 934 are done in their aluminum. The brake disk is galvanized steel.
  21. 935k3
    Krylon Fusion is known to attack styrene. It was made for plastics like lawn furniture etc.
  22. 935k3
    Try this epoxy in bottles. It's 9.99 at Hobby Lobby. With the 40% coupon about $6. The bottles are less messy, last longer and can be dispensed easier to exact mounts.
  23. 935k3
    Another option is to spray it silver then a coat of Tamiya Acrylic X-18. After drying use a Q-tip dampened with ammonia to to remove the black from where you want it to be silver. Ammonia removes Tamiya Acrylics but does nothing to other paints.
  24. 935k3
    since you are getting a metal one I would just paint it red then use a Q-tip with thinner to remove the red on the fins.
  25. 935k3
    This is Plastruct for ABS, look for the orange label
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