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Everything posted by maxwell48098
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Ford Bronco full 3d print
maxwell48098 replied to stitchdup's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Very, very nice. A.J. -
Outstanding build. I worked at a Ford dealer prepping new cars back in the late '60's - early '70's. I prepped several of these, but my favorites were the Mustang Boss 302's and 429's. But you cpould break the rear tires loose even on the Galaxie GT boats! Looks right on. A.J.
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Moebius F250 steel wheel widening
maxwell48098 replied to Radretireddad's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I've done this using the spare wheels from other F250s that I've built without spare wheels/tires. A.J. -
ISO Ford AA truck rims.
maxwell48098 replied to 1st 700 Quad's topic in Truck Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Here's where I got mine. https://stsupplyco.com/collections/scenes-unlimited/products/m53-1-25-ford-bb-wheel-tire-set A.J. -
One of the dealerships that I used to call on as a Chrysler Service Rep in the '70's would buy cars at the insurance company auto auction that had someone non-violently die inside them. They went really, really cheap because they smelled horrible inside. So what they would do is to get a bale of alfalfa hay that they'd spread around the interior and trunk of the vehicle. Then they put it out in the sun for a month or so. Amazingly, the alfalfa absorbed the foul smell that was inside the vehicle. But then the interior of the vehicle interior smelled like alfalfa! To get rid of the alfalfa aroma, they'd then spread a couple bags of charcoal around the inside of the vehicle and put it back out in the sun for another 3-4 weeks. Amazingly, the charcoal absorbed the alfalfa aroma. They'd detail the car, then put it on the used car lot. On model kits that I've purchased from heavy smokers, I washed all of the parts in soapy water. For the box, I'd put three or four charcoal brickettes inside and leave it out in the sun for a couple of days. The smoke smell would be gone. A.J.
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Outstanding build. I remember being a teenager and riding in my uncle Henry's white '64 Galaxie 50XL. The interior in his was red and it also had a 427!
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Having been building model cars and trucks since 1958, then using resin conversion parts/kits, one thing I learned was that when you saw a resin item you liked, you bought it then because it may not be available months or years later. I've seen the same thing with some 3D suppliers. My first AIM resin conversions and parts were purchase in 1982. I still have some of those old, brittle, heavy fiberglass resin castings A.J.
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The only problem with producing in China is that the tools, once sent there, can't be taken out. If my memory serves me correctly, based on a conversation with a former colleague who worked for Walmart back then,Walmart was the one who drove model companies to have their kits produced in China instead of US, using "Walmart approved" companies so that the wholesale prices would be low enough to maintain Walmart margins. Walmart also got the first containers of the new products. (This didn't make hobby shop owners happy.) As it turned out, several years later, Walmart dumped models altogether. Walmart did the same with other folks like Black and Decker where the B&D products sold at Walmart had their own, lower "Walmart" specs. Those lower spec B&D tools didn't last, and hurt the B&D brand as well. A.J.
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I've had very good luck on some of my Franklin Mint die casts that used real rubber of soaking the tires in Armour-All. Then I let then air dry for a couple of days. I now will check annually if any of the tires are getting hard again and apply Armour-All using a Q-tip. A.J.
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Interesting that only F350's had dual rear wheels ans only the long bed or cab and chassis. But with a little work, you can turn them into something like this mini-pumper. A.J.
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1964 Chevrolet El Camino
maxwell48098 replied to Chuck Most's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Great work. The March/April issue of Vintage Truck has an article on a beautiful, restored 1964 El Camino. A.J. -
Suggestion to Moebius
maxwell48098 replied to GLMFAA1's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
I think that the ambo body is a great idea. Where I live in SE MI, there were several local fire departments that had Ford F350 (both 4 and 2WD) Pierce mini-pumpers. They all used the same Ford chassis that the current Ford wrecker kits use. I used one of the wrecker bodies and put it on a '74 Dodge D series chassis. I'm considering using the Ford chassis for a mini-pumper or lite rescue. A.J. -
Moebius Wrecker Truck Announcement
maxwell48098 replied to Erik Solie's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
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I used to work for Chrysler and had a '74 Trail Duster as a company "car". The unique thing about the '74's was that there was not upper door frame on the door. For those Trail Dusters and Ramchargers equipped with the optional hard top, the door frames were actually attached to the roof. The problem with that turned out to be lots of water leaks at the "A" post-to-door frame joint, and at the upper door frame-to-door joint. This was corrected for '75 and later model years where to doors were from the D-series pickups with better weatherstripping around the entire door. FWI The product planners thought that customers that got the convertible topS would not like the upper metal door frame when the top was down or removed. Actual use proved them wrong. HaHa! A.J.
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Thanks for your comment. It is actually is and easy conversion. I used a 1974 Dodge W100 chassis with the front 2WD suspension for the 1978 D100 Little Red Express slightly modified to a heavy duty D300 configuration. The rear axle/suspension had to be moved back about 1/8th inch to increase the wheelbase to 135 inches. This required a similar addition to the driveshaft. A PTO was added to the transmission, and new, longer PTO drive shaft made from Evergreen rod of connect to the chain drive for the winch. The MOPAR and side stripes are from the '74 Dodge Pickup. A.J.
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I worked at a full-line Ford dealership from 1966-1972 while in high school and junior college. I started just washing and cleaning up new vehicles for delivery, then graduated to prepping vehicles for delivery. Our dealership general manager had a relative who worked for Ernest Holmes company on Chattanooga, TN and our dealership ordered all of their Ford chassis and had them dropped shipped at Holmes for completion. Our dealership had three Holmes wreckers from light duty F-series to N-series heavy duty, and we delivered probably 2 dozen Holmes wreckers per year. When Moebius announced Ford tow truck kit I was pretty excited, and now realize that my excitement was justified. The Moebius kit is extremely close to the Holmes 440 4 ton wrecker introduced in 1966. I remember these like it was yesterday having prepped many over the years. The 440 bed has two styles, the high side "deluxe" as represented by the current kits, and the low side "West Coast" body which I've heard Moebius will also be releasing. The storage compartments on the kit body were one of dozens of options. As soon as the kit came out, I bought 6 planning to build several variations used not only the Ford F350 4X4, but also two wheel drive, and using other truck brands as well, Below, are some images of the versions that I built so far. I'll have more detailed images on each one later. Thanks for looking, 1972 Ford F350 4X4 Holmes Tow Truck 1966 Ford F350 4X4 Holmes Tow Truck 1966 Ford F350 Holmes 440 Tow Truck 1968 Chevrolet K30 Holmes 440 Tow Truck 1968 Ford F350 Holmes 440 Tow Truck 1974 Dodge D300 Holmes 440
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AMT 2005 Chrysler 300C re-release
maxwell48098 replied to Blueprint's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
In Europe Chrysler sold a Chrysler 300 wagon just as you've pictured. One of the engine choices was a 3.0L diesel combined with a manual transaxle. Turn off the tractor control, and the diesel would break the front tires loose. A very fun vehicle to drive. A.J. -
I make sure to remove and clean the spray paint can nozzle using 1:1 auto parts cleaner with those tiny wands in their nozzle after EVERY time I use them. The wand fits right into the paint nozzle and cleans out any buildup that could occur and plug them up. I also store my spray paint cans upside down so the tick paint doesn't buildup in the bottom of the spray can. Warming the paint cans up and shaking them for a couple of minutes has yet to fail me. A.J.
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Moebius Wrecker Truck Announcement
maxwell48098 replied to Erik Solie's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
The difference between the F350 chassis and the other Ford 100-250 chassis is the wheelbase. The F350 has a longer wheelbase by about 6 inches when you set the two side by side. I used modelers license to relocate the rear suspension from the 1968 F250 2wd back about .25 inches. Hope this helps. A.J. -
Recommendations For Iphone Photography?
maxwell48098 replied to oldcarfan's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
One thing to keep in mind when taking images via phone, turn the phone horizontally to get wide shots instead of backing away from the model while taking images with the phone positioned vertically. A.J. -
Taking bets on Rust-Oleum / Testors paint.
maxwell48098 replied to Toast's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have been v..e...r....y lucky to have not had a can of Rust-oleum plug up on me. I do store my spray cans in an unusual fashion, up side down. I've had cans that are nearly 40 years old that still spray after being stored this way. I always heat the cans and shake them for a couple of minutes before using. In addition to the heat increasing the propellant pressure, I also think it helps the paint inside the can mix better. I also think that storing the cans inverted helps prevent propellant leaks. I've been doing this for at least for the past 45 - 50 years. I've also been given, or bought cheap, old spray paint from fellow modelers. On these, I'll invert the can to see if propellant comes out. If not, what I'll do is to heat the can hotter than normal, remove the nozzle and see if it is plugged. Then I'll use an old nozzle that I've removed the spray tip from so that it has a big opening on the nozzle. Also without fail, thick paint will come out first before the regular paint shoots out, and then we're in business. One final word on spray can nozzle care. EVERY time I use some spray can paint, I remove the nozzle from the can and clean it by spraying aerosol 1:1 automotive carb/brake parts cleaner through the paint nozzle. That little spray tube on the parts fits perfectly inside nearly every spray paint nozzle. A quick blast or two will clean the inside of the paint nozzle out. FYI - Always save the spray paint nozzles when you finish up the paint. They can usually be used on other spray paint cans using the same type of nozzle, and often provide different spray patterns. Just my 2 cents. A.J. -
I have the entire series of these books, including the fire apparatus ones. They're always a good source for inspiration and reference. A.J.
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