maxwell48098

Boy, I can remember getting a McDonald's Hamburger for 15 cents, fries set you back another 10 cents, and a large (today's medium) Coke cost another 25 cents. And we think truck have gotten expensive. A.J.

Gregg, I'm retired from Chrysler and the high performance versions of the Charger use HP Hemi engines which have their blocks painted orange while cylinder hears remain bare aluminum.

The Exhaust Manifolds on all of my MOPARs were a dark, rusty brown. That is true once the engine paint burned off. Just running them on "the rolls" dynos in the assembly plant, the top 2-3 inches of paint would be burnt off. Once it got to the dealership and prepped for delivery, in about 20 minutes the last of the paint was gone. Park the vehicle in humid air overnight, ato life. nd that rusty patina came. Every engine that I saw leave Mound Road Engine, or Trenton Engine in the suburbs of Detroit had the manifolds installed before paint. A.J.

Here's one source of high quality custom decals. https://stsdecals.com/

Johan tooling is long gone. It's a subject that has been discussed over and over for years here.

Having worked on several 1:1 versions of these old Mopars, I must say that nearly every single one had various panel gaps and fit far worse than those on your model. On 1:1, we've spent days getting them even close to being equal and tight. Kudos on your efforts. A.J.

Yes, "MEK substitute" does work fine, and its odor isn't nearly as strong original MEK. I git mine at Lowes for $8.69 for a quart can. I just put some in an old Plastruct cement bottle, and have even mixed some into other liquid cements to stretch them out a little. No noticeable degradation of the other cements. A.J.

I wonder if Round 2 will issue a 4X4 Dodge W100 using the 4x4 suspension pieces from Warlock? Seems pretty simple, if they can do the reverse for the warlock. A.J.

Looks like I'm not the only one you uses the bottom up technique. Been doing it that way for maybe 50 years now. A.J.

I recently discovered tire melt on a model that I used some aftermarket soft resin tires that I installed when I built an AMT F350 about two years ago. A different version of the F350 built at the same time with resin wheels, but same tires, has shown no signs of melting or other damage. Replaced the plastic wheels, cleaned the inside of the tires, lined the new plastic wheels with Bare Metal foil before reinstalling the tires. First time this has happened since some of my original builds back in the '60's. Now I don't take chances anymore and routinely line the plastic wheels before installing soft resin tires. A.J.

Over the years, I've use Tamiya Peal White. A.J.

I've built both the hearse and ambo. Here are some pics

Wouldn't it be cool if AMT reissued the 1957 Cameo, or took the street rod '55 Chevy step side and did a stock version step side as a '57. Just something to think about that shouldn't be that hard. A.J.

Something to consider is that the chassis under the 1960 F100 is the same as that under the '53 and '56 Ford F100. Dropping the 1960 cab and interior on a '53 or '56 chassis with the Flareside body from one of those kits would be pretty simple and more detailed that the one piece 1960 F100 chassis. I did that with a Modelhaus '57 Ford conversion (based off the 1960 cab) and it worked perfectly. A.J.

FYI - Steering wheel is upside down Horn ring is on the bottom so that it doesn't block speedometer. A.J.

Yep. I still have one of the double kits, and a separately boxed stake truck kit. They were relatively cheap, and I loves the white plastic that they were molded it. A.J.

I have a box just like that which has a complete, unbuilt '62 Ford F100, trailer, and putty! I put the decals, tires and glass parts in separate plastic snack size bags for same keeping. Bought it in '72 for $20.00! I never built it because I was able to get ahold of quite a few "glue bombs" that I simply disassembled (glue in '60's was mainly tube glue that popped right off the joints). The same goes for all of the other AMT '60-'63 Ford and Chevy Pickup that I've built. A.J.

I retired from Chrysler 18 years ago, and two of my areas or responsibility were owners manuals and service manuals. "Cautions" and "Warnings accounted for 40% of the content in the owners manuals, and 56% in the service manuals. Trial lawyers hated it, but our product liability attorneys required it.

Still have an original on the shelf that I haven't built yet. But I'll definitely buy a couple to swap the 4X4 components onto the D100 chassis. A.J.

I used the AMT '53 Ford chassis for mine, and a '58 Ford cab conversion from Modelhaus. Fit perfectly, and you could d the same with the new '60 F100 which will now have a separate cab. A.J.

With the '60 coming out having separate cab and bed, I'll not have an easy conversion to drop the '57 and '58 cab conversions I bought from Modelhaus years ago. I'll probably swap in the Y-block engine from the AMT of Revel '57 Ford car kits. I actually built a '58 some years ago and used the entire chassis and short box from the AMT '53 Ford F100 kit. It's like they were made for each other (which in real life they were nearly identical). A.J.

There are two sets of wheels in this kit; The five holes ones from the F100 trucks AND 6 of the 8 lug wheels on their own separate tree, for 4X2 or 4X4 versions, along with an 8 holes spare on yet another sprue. A.J.

Same here.

I had the same problem with the leakage under the nozzle the first time I used it. That's when I removed it and found out that it hadn't been seated all the way down. I cleaned the leakage off the top of the can and from the nozzle. Placed the nozzle back onto the stem poking up from the can, and with a cloth covering the nozzle, quickly pushed it down firmly when I head a little click. Problem solved! I've used it twice since with no leakage.

Not the movie vehicle, but I used the Magirus ladder for my version of a Chicago aerial from the neighborhood I grew up in. A.J.