maxwell48098

One thing I always keep in mind regarding engine and trans seams in my 65 years of building is to make sure the seams line up as close as possible, even if it means removing assembly pins or nubs, on the side of the seam that will be exposed in the finished model. Worry more about visible bottom seams that hidden, top seams. The use the best liquid cement you have to join the seams. I'll even push hard on the two halves to make the seam squish a little bit before the cement. A.J.

Those are tires from '27 Lincoln touring reversed.

Really nice build. A.J.

Great build. I used that kits as the basis for another style pumper by stretching the wheelbase and adding a scratchbuilt body.

I just bought my most recent bottle of Quick Shine at a Lowes home improvement store. Sizes all the way up to 1 gallon available there.

I decanted some of the Revell Chrome spray and have done emblems, dash knobs, and other small parts using a brush. Worked perfectly. A.J.

I just received my last big order from them on 6/28. It came from Livonia and since I live in Troy, MI, normal delivery was always next day. I'll miss them and hope those who sold their products via Shapeways will find other outlets. A.J.

Don Holthaus of Modelhaus resins recommended soaking 4-6 hours in either a product called Marine Clean or Wesley's Bleche Wite, followed by a warm soap and water scrub down. I used the Westley's on at least 70 resin bodies from 8 or more vendors without a hitch. A.J.

The Mobius Ford pickups offer several styles of Ford mirrors as option for their kits. A.J.

The Mobius Ford pickups also have those mirrors as an option. A.J.

One thing that is always helpful, if you decide to take your pics with a cell phone, whenever possible take the pics horizontally. That way you don't cut off the left or right ends of your model, while having large wasted space above and below your model. Too many folks just hold their phone vertically which usually ends up making you model appear small, but the background overpowering and distracting. Just my thoughts. A.J.

I have small 1X2 blocks under the front corners of all of my cases that are sitting on carpet, and some 0.5X1.5 plywood blocks under the front corners of my cases sitting on hardwood flooring. It's just enough to make the cases lean ever so slightly rearward. Just a thought, A.J.

Isn't that the Revell kit?

Here's one I built at as tractor way back in 1979 that I shortened the wheelbase on.

I used the frame fro the AMT '53 Ford F100 and had to add about 3/4 to the frame wheelbase to make it come out right. I've also dropped the 1960 Cab onto the '53 F100 frame and pickup box for a proper '60 F100 Flareside A.J.

The current May/June issue of Vintage Truck Magazine has a great article on a beautiful 1972 F250 360 CID 4X4 Highboy "Dentside" pickup. Like all Vintage Truck articles, the author goes into the background history of the truck line being featured before going into the specifics of the featured truck. The Featured truck is now owned by the son of the original owner who died in a vehicle accident in 1984. His son was 3 at the time and 2015 did a serious restoration of his dad's truck. Lots of great pics as well. I have had a Vintage Truck subscription since way back when the magazine was originally titled This Old Truck in 1993. It is my goto source for info on various light duty builds I do. You may want to pick up an issue if you see one somewhere, or you can subscribe at vintagetruck.com. A.J.

There's an extra one in case you lose one. I thought that it was a great idea, and if you don't lose any, you have a whole extra set after 5 builds! A.J.

I did a couple over the years. If I remember correctly, I vertically cut off the rear of the body as far back as possible. (These rear doors ended up being used as the side doors on the '72 and '78. Then I took a second body and cutoff about .75 inches at the rear (roughly 18 scale inches_ then aglued this to the first body and blended the lower rear area behind the rear wheel openings. It's not as hard as it seems. Hope that helps. A.J.

All American Models did a complete conversion kits back in the day. A.J.

Sure would be nice to see Round 2 re-release the 1957 after seeing all of the 1955's released over and over again. A.J.

Nice work on the chassis. FYI - The transmission should a cast iron color instead of the engine color. Great job overall. A.J.

The tread width of the MPC/Ertl/AMT DM800 and DM600 is too wide for them to be correct for 1/25 scale. So these chassis will work fine with 1/24 scale casting. I have a feeling that Jim Etter the original proprietor of AIM purposely made his castings a little wider so that the MPC chassis would work. If you've ever built the DM800 or DM600, the tires actually extend past the edges of the fenders, but this casting fits them perfectly. A.J.

Here are some images of an original American Industrial Models Mack B-81 dropped on the MPC not AMT DM 800 chassis. Really simple. A.J.

I use thee different types of liquid glue. What I have to done prevent knocking over the tall glue bottles of Plastruct Plastiweld, Plast-i-weld by Flex File, and MEK Substitute is to rubber band the three tall glass bottles together to form a triangle shape. Haven't had a problem with knocking this over for decades back to the old Tenerex days. A.J.

Has anyone else noticed that the date on the M&M is 2009? A.J.