CJ1971

Hang on a sec' mate... I made no mention of my country or any other, other than pointing out that the good ol' U S of A can be just as bad as every other country. My mate up ^^ there seem's to think there aren't crazy, stupid drivers & pedestrians in his neck of the woods... He's kidding himself ... That is all.

Mate you must be living in Wonderland, how's Alice by the way? What do you MEAN what does smoking crack, taking some type of illegal narcotic, drinking ( alcohol ) & then getting behind the wheel of a vehicle, probably killing innocent people & themself, have to do with this?? I'll ask again, ARE YOU KIDDING YOURSELF PAL?? These crack smokers, drug takers, drink-drivers ARE NORMAL, everyday people!!! They're not celebrities or aliens, ARE THEY?! Dead set, you ARE a GOOSE! I think you'll find the World stats ( above ) are daily statistics NOT yearly!

As you've just stated, creative expression, IS important to you... Well when you HAVE time, express it, when you don't, you don't. That's all. We all go through slumps, we all go through periods of time where "life" gets in the way but somehow & sometime during that "life-cycle" our hobbies remain a part of it, when we want to use our creative expressions.... ;-)

You ARE kidding yourself mate? And I suppose Cops is a Russian show? You live in a country with over 313 million people ( as of 2012 ) & I suppose you think they're all angels, no-one smokes crack there either? No-one gets caught DUI? No-one runs from the Po-lice? Snap out of it mate....

And I suppose nobody that drives an automobile in America, drinks alcoholic & gets behind the wheel of said automobile? According to my source, Worlds Scariest/Wildest/ Police Videos, Americans are just as bad as most other countries in the World. One shouldn't throw stones when one lives in a glass house....

Looking good as always Matt :-) Any mods' on this Stallion mate or straight outta the box?? Cliffo

I really don't see what the problem IS... It's a hobby... It's there when you DO have time, be it daily, weekly, monthly or yearly. It sounds like more of a complaint, that you don't have or never seem to have "hobby-time". If you're passionate about something, like this hobby or any other for that matter, you can MAKE time or FIND the time.

Beautiful work Mitchell! Love all the little details you added. I've also built this kit & had the same dramas as everyone who's built this kit had... The decaling & those **** metal transfers! :-( I have another 2 of these kits, 1 regular & 1 with the Aber PE detail kit. Luckily I got true 1:1 colours for them before Hiroboy/Zero Paints stopped being able to ship Internationally ;-) Astons have to be my most favourite "exotic " cars ever! Looks like there's going to be some serious AMs in the future as they've just announced a partnership with Mercs AMG division.... Now if we could only hope/pray for them in kit form.... :-) Once again... Great build mate! Cliff

Good work there G! Love the colour-combo! Only thing I would've done would've been to bring the rear wheelbase forward a few scale inches. Gives me something to think about now, being an Aussie & a Mopar guy..... ;-) Cheers Cliffo

Thanks :-)

Oh ok... Easy enough to do. So what is the ideal temperature setting ( in Celcius?) & for how long?? ( mainly acrylic basecoats/ urethane ) Cliff

What about either of these 2, fellas? Now I know what they do but it doesn't look like you can fit a car ( model ) body within each level or any level. It doesn't look like each level is tall enough??

Exactly.... Polls shmolls... All a bit of BS to most people.

Luckily that poll was done in the USA... It wouldn't of made the top 50 Down Under.... ;-) But seriously, a poll based on only 5000 of your 340+ Million population?? Yeah I'd take that with a pound or 2 of salt...

I'm confused... You HAVE the kit this steering wheel belongs to but you're asking US what kit it comes from??

I made this for my best friend last year. It, along with 2 other custom made builds, were to be his B'day presents. I won't get into it here, as I have previously said enough, but he passed away 2wks shy of his B'day & never got to see them. I converted a stock Fujimi Mitsubishi Colt into a replica of his Mitsubishi Ralliart Colt ( Turbo ) 1:1 Model Cheers Cliff

I've had it... It's cool though... It's a hobby not a Fulltime job. It'll be there when you get re-inspired. Patience. The juices will flow again... Sometimes it's good to actually have/take a break. Enjoy the other things in life that make you happy...

A kit, vintage or not, MIB or built, is worth whatever a person, be they collector or builder or businessman, is willing to pay, be it $5, $50, $500, $5000, $50,000 & so on... Money talks BS walks. Just recently Juan Manual Fangio's 1954 Mercedes W196R, in which he won back to back GPs at Germany & Switzerland, sold for a World record $29,650,000.00!, in its unrestored condition! Obviously to some billionaire it IS worth every single one of those $29-odd million dollars.... There is no point discussing questions like this, which have been asked many, many, many times before on this forum, that its become very boring. The simple fact, as I have stated & has been stated many times before, is, it doesn't matter if its a plastic model kit or a 1954 J.M Fangio GP winner... It's worth/price is whatever someone is willing to pay for it.

I have tried all matter of clears in my time modelling, enamels/acrylics/lacquers & 2pk automotive, be it from a can or through my A/B. It may not be as long a time as others here or across the globe but by far & away 2PK automotive clear is the best, in terms of results & durability. Over the last few years I've used ONLY 2pk clear exclusively. It's not a question of $ for me personally but it is when it comes to quantity Vs $. Over this side of the pond Tamiya Lacquer rattle cans vary between $12-15au per can & Duplicolour cans pretty much the same. Tamiya cans have approx' 100ml & Duplicolour 150ml. 100ml x 10 = 1 litre. Recently I purchased 1 litre of BASF Glasurit clear ( 1 litre ) along with its specific hardner ( 500ml ) & reducer ( 500ml ), totaling 2 litres. Total cost =$120au. On average I will use 6-8ml of clear & 3-4ml of the hardner/reducer for each mix, per 1:24/25 scale build. So comparing prices Vs Quantity I would need 10 cans of Tamiya Clear @ $14 = $140au. Duplicolour 7-8 cans @ $14 = $98-$112au. I always decant rattle-can paints & spray through my A/B, when I do use rattle can colours. Duplicolour cannot hold a candle to BASF Glasurit, nor can Tamiya's clear. Another really good quality with auto 2pk clears, as stated previously, is their durability & strength. They hold up to sanding/wet sanding & auto polish polishes, which I polish my builds with. Enamels/Acrylics cannot & although lacquers are more durable, can't either. Here are some builds that have been cleared with HOK 2pk clear & some current builds with BASF Glasurit.... Funnily enough I don't see any syrup? (HOK) (Glasurit) As has also been said earlier... Each to his own. Cheers

Same here bro.... First Charger I think of is the General Lee... So it's the '68-69 model years... Cliffo

Wikipedia left out the Aussie Valiant/Chrysler Charger ....

Got all these in the last few days.... Revell's Transporter... Then there's these, fresh from C1 Models... ( my own spare tyre stash though ;-) Cheers Cliffo

That's really cool! Wish I had a young bloke with an interest in the hobby :-). He's picked a great car but somewhat of a "harder" kit to build, good you're there to help :-) Just a tip... The rear bumper/fascia can be a tight fit... I suggest dry fitting before it needs to be glued in place. I'm building this kit now so I know my experience. ;-) Cheers Cliffo

Oh I see... Ok. Over here we have Mothers Day in May & Father's Day in October. Just thought it was the same around the World....

You know I kinda like it, just as Bowtie said, it's kinda Mad-Max-ish. However there's some things that you've over-looked, or rather, not paid enough attention to, such as the engine bay-fender-firewall gaps. Realistically no 1:1 has fender-firewall gaps. To me the wheels are too small, very stock-ish for that big brutish car. Maybe some bigger diameter wheels ( 18s ) with some thick tyres & instead of lowering it, jack it up in the rear.. A'la Stephen King '70s style. Maybe Dog-dishes & kept flat/Matt black, leave out the red-walls. The windows... They appear to have quite a few scratches, ( hard to see as I only have use of an iPhone ), but having a nice, clean scratch free windshield/rear window is a necessity. Speaking of glass, you've painted the indicators ( front ) flat black. Instead you should've gone with a smoke/clear black.... Give the appearance of darkness without completely blacking them out. One last thing... I'd add a hood scoop... They add "brute" scare tactics.... Hood scoop = big powerful motor ;-) For display purposes you can take the hood off or have it open? Sorry forgot to say something about the flat black paint job. As cool as they are & Matt/flat paint jobs or "wraps" are all the rage lately, as far as level of complexity for models, they're not too hard to accomplish. It's probably what make's them cool & fun to replicate. Sometimes "judges" go for the "WOW" factor, well being honest, they'd go for the wow factor everytime, because layered/2-3-4 toned paint schemes are much harder & complex to achieve & if they're done right, they really have that "wow" factor. Those kinda paint jobs will always grab attention away from a Matt/flat coloured paint job. Maybe there should be seperate colour categories?? Shiny, Matt/Flat??? Just a thought.... I've not entered a contest in more than 8yrs, first & only time it was at that, mainly because there's no scene where I live or even remotely close. Doesn't bother me at all because its just a hobby to me but here's a pic or 2 of my Merc SL65 Black Edition. Matt black. It's bone stock except for the tyres. I used a different set & painted the sidewall lettering white as I wanted to give it that '70s Muscle car "look" with a modern take.... Well it is a modern muscle car ;-) Cheers Cliff