Nacho Z

Second question of the day. I have a lot of kits and I keep a spreadsheet to keep track of them. I just noticed this, this morning. Both kits have the same kit number, 7504. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thank you!

This may be a silly question, but it is something that has been bugging me for a while. When stating the scale of a model kit in writing, is it 1/25 or 1:25? I'm really hoping that someone can explain it to me in simple terms. Also, is it a fraction, a ratio or maybe a proportion? I doubt it is a proportion. I have tried to Google it but didn't have much luck, probably because I didn't know how to ask the right question. Thanks!

She’s a good looking model, Brent. I think you’ve done a great job with your decal work.

They say that time flies when you are having fun. This is not the case with me...lol. It has been over a month since my first, and only, post. Obviously, Halloween has come and gone. I missed the deadline. Fortunately, it appears that everyone else did too! The admins extended the deadline until the end of November. This kit, The Evil Iron Trike, has been a joy stealing, soul sucking, pig of a kit. I suppose it does not help that I'm trying to hit a deadline. Anyhow, let me show you where I am at with it. I will put a caption above each picture as needed. Here are the mace ball taillights. The molding is fairly representative of many parts in the kit. One taillight cleaned up, one to go. You have to install 8 individual spikes to each taillight. The attachment points on each spike are rather large. A little time and effort with a sanding stick and/or pad will help smooth everything out. I didn't take a lot of pictures of the engine while it was being built. In the sake of time I had decided to just leave the kit chrome pieces as is. There was a lot of scraping to remove the chrome so that glue would work. I added a black wash on the ribbed bits. The frame was on par with every other piece of this kit. This picture is a little out of chronological order, but I wanted to show the gas tank and back side of the body. Multiple sessions of sanding, filling, priming, sanding, filling, priming. The gas tank is ready for paint. The back side of the body is also as good as it gets and ready for paint. As of last night, I glued in the front side of the body, (the piece with the seat), and it is worse than the back. Lastly, I decided to light the skull eyes, the headlights and the taillights. I purchased a few items from Evan Designs and started to play with them. The original setup was far too bright. I painted the inside of the skull black and I will use the taillight LEDs in the eyes and the eye LEDs in the taillights. That is all for tonight. I will be back when I have some significant progress to post. Thanks for checking in!

These MFH kits are wonderful and in the hands of a master modeler such as yourself, can become amazing works of art!

Kevin, put me in the top spoon, dark green, camp!

She looks great, Jonathan!

Very cool, very cool indeed!

I really, really like this! Great color combo!

You knocked this one out of the park! Great job, Jay!

Another beauty, Keith!

She is a real looker! Beautiful model, you did a great job on her.

Greg and Dusty, I think that probably everything Infini makes is great. I know them from their PE sets for ships, some amazing sets. I have their cutting grid mats and I highly recommend them.

Doggone, Randy, it doesn’t get any better than this!

Very nice looking Camaro!

Such a beautiful model of a beautiful car!

Simply sublime!

Very nice!

Now that is one sweet Mustang!

Jason brings up a good point about the cloths. I also use what Jason is talking about, cotton flannel, (at least I believe that is what it is). My wonderful wife bought me a ton of it and it will last me many years. I even go this far; I cut something like a 6”x6” square of it and put a little color dot in the corner of the square to correspond with the particular compound that I will use. This way I will never “cross contaminate” the cloth with the wrong compound. When I’m done polishing I will cut away the used area or just toss the whole thing. Lastly, I have a 4th cloth just to wipe up an leftover compound or haze on the body.

Hi Ron, I’m going to assume that you are using the Micro Mesh cloths. When I paint I always try to make that last coat a heavier, wetter coat. This seems to give me a smoother surface. I generally start at 4000. I have dropped down to 3600 to get stubborn boogers out, but 4000 is my normal starting point. Like you, I run up to 12,000 and then I use Tamiya polishing compounds. If all goes well, I will skip the Coarse compound and start with Fine. Hope this helps.

Ron, sounds like you have a good regimen for polishing your paint. The three responses above mine are excellent. I would believe that there is piece of grit causing havoc. The only thing that I would add is do you really need to start at 3200? Might not seem like a big deal, but I would try to eliminate the coarser grits as much as I could. Just a thought.

Bob, I just have to say that I really have my doubts that these were hydro dipped. The top car looks like the work of a guy named Ken “Bondo” Brickell. I could be wrong but it looks like his style of paint and build. The Foose pickup, to my eyes, sure looks like it was painted and polished the conventional way. Any chance that whoever told you that they were hydro dipped might have been pulling your leg?

Outstanding!! As a kid back in the late ‘60s and ‘70s, I loved these crazy paint schemes. What an awesome model!

Very nice, Simon! She is a looker!