Luc Janssens

But then there is something like scale 1/25 or 1/24?

If Jonathan knows, he can not reveal it. That's how it works folks! But like you I'm very curious, but a bit dissapointed as well.

Darn....What other famous movie car (or could it be a truck too) then, isn't available in 1:25th scale? An Aston Martin also makes more sense in a global market.....but on the other hand it will be a one trick pony.....hmmm

Was it Mpc owned or Airfix sourced?....have to dig up mine to see, but bet some of our members here know.

In the past I've bought a few Force 440 kits, just for this lightbar....

What's the point if not complete? Also when scanning a kit, you see in 3d what for example the body looks like and from there on, you can refine it, by adding panel lines ( header fender) that weren't there on the original promo-kit, to break up a one piece bumper-grille in two separate parts because it's better to mold it that way, or to add seperate clear headlamps. And also helpfull of course when designing an all new interior (Jo-Han weakpoint) and adapt it to an already existing chassis and drive-train design. For example if Round2 or Revell would be interested in the '70 Olds Cutlass to be used and adapted to ad a sibling to an specific kit already in their product line-up/back catalog. But, why bother...when one can start from scratch......

Seriously.....what Jo-Han kits/designs other then the ones I mentioned would be viable.... Gentlemen, put your thinking cap's on

Then pronto get them on the phone to copy some Plymouth GTX/Roadrunner bodies

Don't know what's up, but with the technolodgies out there, anything is possible, but the neccesary funds have to be available, and a forcast of a good return on that investment a must, otherwise it's money down the drain and for a small operation like today's Jo-Han, one miss can be fatal.

Amen!

That form follows function: Design of the kit & tool: It must not only meet the skill level (easy, moderate, challenging) of the target customer, helping (not fighting) him or her to create something they can be proud of, the choice as to parts breakdown depends not only on the skill level but the subject matter too. Here are two examples: Skill level: molded-in headlamps are out of place in a kit marketed towards enthusiasts Subject matter: An Engine is very important in a drag racing car, but not in a Van where dress-up features are more desired, to tackle this, it's best to talk with fellow modelers (off or online, go through your stack of kits or display case(s) lined with built models and write down what features you liked or disliked when assembling them. If you have any, take a look at your (old) promos and die-casts too, because they were/are designed for easy and fast assembly by non-modelers on a production line. I took the liberty of writing down some key elements which (for me at least) define the characteristics of an excellent kit, no matter what skill level: Ease of build, no matter how many parts. Parts break-down not only chosen in function of molding restrictions and possible future siblings but also to avoid possible sink mark areas and optical distortions (on clear parts), the degree of detail you wish to incorporate, helping the painting process (like the separate grille inserts of the Amt (ex-MPC) '74 Roadrunner/GTX) or the mating of various sub-assemblies and also by trying to make the assembly dummy-proof, by carefully (again to avoid ghost sink marks) chosen (perimeter) ridges, holes, and pins. The crispness of the molded parts, so clean-up is minimal, and applying finishing materials like BMF becomes child's play. Frame attachments, designed not to damage the appearance of the parts when cut off the tree. This is especially important for plated parts. Ejection pins is it possible to position them on hidden surfaces, or on the frames (runners), maybe by beefing up the affected part(s) frame attachment(s). Parting lines, be creative and don't let them run too close to areas where they can affect the overall presentation of the model, like too close to molded-in scripts, or try to hide by using the shape of the piece to its advantage, especially when dealing with plated parts.

Wasn't it sacrificed by using parts of it, cobbling together this kit?

Some American dude and his posse will be arriving this evening, to buy Belgian chocolates and beer (they even brought an extra plane, to haul it all), then dine with on the menu I'm sure Brussels sprout's, meat stew with fries and mayonnaise as the main course, while a Brussels Waffle with whipped cream will be serves as dessert. Anyway, It will be fun motoring in and round our capital tomorrow.

Would be a nice project for Revell, the chassis and much of the drive-train could be used for the tri years, even a '57 Nomad or plain wagon drag racer! If someone here has the time, to write a (250K) proposal to sent of to a Revell rep. be my guest....

Great to hear and shows the owner that there's money to be made with all new kits of selected vintage automotive subject matter.

Modified releases are more likely if the design of the original tooling lends itself to insert swapping and/or blocking off unwanted sections, without disturbing the flow of plastic into the cavities which are still needed. In the old days they tried to cramp everything, except the clear and red shots, into one big two part chunk of steel, now I see smaller modular tooling which lends itself to a much more versatile use. But anyway, I sometimes wonder if it would be possible to add a new version to the Amt/ertl '71 Charger R/T tool for example, by adding new body side cavities (without the door grille stampings) and if, the main tool in the to be plated section can house it, a new front loop-bumper with separate grille inserts and rear bumper, in the non plated area bucket seats, console, shifter while one of the clear parts tooling can hold the new taillamps, so that Round-2 can release a Super Bee version. And if the tool can't hold the extra parts, except the body side cavities, group the needed extra parts into a smaller tool that can hold some extra parts which can be used to dress up this kits even more like '70s correct street machine parts! Another modus operandi could be; tool up everything that is needed to create an all new kit of the '72 Plymouth Roadrunner copying lotsa under-skin parts from the Charger R/T tool and including some of the Super Bee parts in there so they can be separately run with the '71 Charger tool (with the right body side inserts) and the parts added to this kit, so the builder even has more options. Just thinking out loud guys!

Nah, being a Alpha male he tries to impress his girlfriend by driving fast, but due to his peanut brain he doesn't realise it scares her.

Yes, I comes with the right wheels, the ones I like Seems they got the Trans Am licensing too.

Maybe, as life gets back into it's normal pace, they will show something at some future NNL type of show.

You're thinking of the wrong M.Y. G/P...it's this one...

IIRC my dad modified it to make it more accurate, he probably had plans he got through the US embassy.

Next-up the custom sibling of what once was a Pontiac Grand Prix? Could harvest some parts from it if they did

Hmm...next up the ex-Lindberg Blue Devil Destroyer? Remember my dad building one in the '70s.....It was a mantle piece, until he replaced it with a total scratch-build USS Indianapolis in the mid '80s. Anyway I think he still has it somewhere.

Think the copo version had a decal for the bowtie. I kinda wonder if the following could be a solution for separate scripts and trim, so that multiple versions are possible of just one body. AR88058 (archertransfers.com)

Clear headlamps, YES!