yellowsportwagon

Larry sometimes it’s easier to leave the body and chassis together and rough work the bars into it. Then disassemble it to do the finish up stuff. I do know when I did my HB car it was a ton of work to get it all fit together.

I love the company name.

Looks cool I usually rebuild the whole top above the door bars. Usually it is too tall and doesn’t fit to the a pillar that good. But that’s just me. Look at the cars found to the rear of the car here. Theirs is a different chassis just an example of how they go

You need to lose that small bar that runs up and down above the door bars. The short one near the frt. that wasn’t used till the eighties.

Yes sir this was common practice in the 70s. Is there any more pictures in that article? Notice it has a 9” Ford housing on it.

Absolutely wrong. First use of truck arms was in 1963 by Junior Johnson and Ray Fox on the 63 Impala with the Mystery Motor 427. They were used sporadically until 1971-72 when Junior built the Monte Carlos. Almost all of the GM and Ford Cars 72 and up used truck arms. Cars built by Bobby Allison and the first orange Bud Moore Torino being the exceptions. All rear coil spring Banjo chassis during the 70s used truck arms.

This has actually been painted for a while. I just started the chassis this week. I’ve done a couple like this before so it’s pretty easy now.

Couple more progress on chassis. Scratchbuilt K member and frt bars. Crossbraces added under floor and fuel cell built.body is painted

This is a Revell pro modeler with a lot of scratchbuilt stuff going into it. The cage is robbed from a Polar Lights Talledega. Fits 68-70 B body Mopars almost perfect. Nine inch housing from the spares box. Looks closer to a 83/4 Chrysler. NASCAR Mopars didn’t use Dana 60 tears.

Plus they’ll be easier to get under the car. Not as deep.

Go for it Larry. Get some PPP wheels they are more accurate!

Hey Mark did you make the breather assembly? Looks great.

The tires are PPP the wheels are from the Talledega. I probably did some creative stuffing to get it all to fit.

He’s not doing it anymore. Won’t say when or if he’ll do it again. It’s far from perfect but way better than nothing.

I would say rubber was more common.

Dave that one has been on my radar for a while too. I love Wood brothers and Bud Moore Cars.

This is an AMT Fairlane body on a Polar Lights Chassis. The rollbar is MPC cut down two bars on the pass side. PPP tires and wheels. This was built out of spares and extra decals. Only purchases for the build were tires wheels and resin flat hood. Interior uses original sides switched side for side so the flat side shows. Fun little use up spares project.

Grille I got a flat hood from SMH if I remember right.

I see nothing wrong with them. They look good to me.

I did a 66 Fairlane using a Polar Lights Talledega chassis. They were the beginning of the half chassis Holman-Moody Fords. The Polar chassis fits pretty good you need to shorten the frt horns and the wheelbase a tiny bit. I just moved the leaf springs forward a bit. I’ll post it up tonight.

This is my Perry’s resin 68 . It’s a model of my real car

If I can get the hood scoops to look better and an interior done to my liking I have a 69 in the works.

To be honest I’m not sure on this car. A lot were in the trunk. Nichels Chrysler cars were in the cowl behind the drivers front tire.

Thanks guys

Really really nice build Mark