VW93

Thanks for all the comments, it isn't perfect but it displays well. I built this before attempting to build the custom version down the road. I want to build that one as close as possible to the original issue box art kit. BTW regarding the radiator shell color, I saw a photo of a 34 on the net I liked. I don't know if it was a correct resto or not, I just liked the color combo.

I would definitely buy two or more of the Little Deuce and Little T if they re popped them as original.

February 7 (Saturday) 9AM -Until $5.00 Admission Floor Rights $15.00 8AM - 9AM 25th Anniversary Mid Carolina Model Car Swap Meet Salisbury Civic Center, 315 Martin Luther King Ave, Salisbury, NC 62 Tables of Model Kits For Sale There is no show or contest For Further Info Contact Allen Hilton 704-856-1718 and mention you saw it in Model Cars Magazine Gregg, you can edit this if needed. I also posted this in the forum under the title of Mid Carolina Model Car Swap that has

This show sells out every year and as of now all tables have been sold. I'll be there with a table of kits and parts for sale.

25th Anniversary Mid Carolina Model Car Swap Meet No Contest or Show-- Swap Meet Only 62 Tables of Model Kits For Sale 9AM - Until Salisbury Civic Center 315 Martin Luther King Ave Salisbury,NC Admission $5.00 Under Age 10 Free Floor Rights $15.00 8AM - 9AM For Further Information Contact Allen Hilton 704-856-1718

AMT 40 Ford coupe and sedans along with the AMT 32 Ford coupe. First kits I built as a kid back in the early 60's, none built that well I might add!

Two Blue Bandito's I ordered through Bradley's Car Collectibles arrived today.

Thanks for the comments guys. John, I've been trimming the firewall a bit at a time. Getting close to where I want the body to sit. I haven't attempted doing any washes as of yet. The Pebble color is a bit darker than the pictures show, I may leave it the way it is. I do want to add a fan and an upper radiator hose. I know the early AMT kits were pretty basic but I always wondered why they didn't include a fan and radiator hose.

Did a little more to it. Painted ribs of valve covers, lugs and hubs. Sanded parting lines from slicks. Need to trim lower part of firewall to clear the bell housing and get the front of body down a bit. From the picture I can see a few other faults I need to try and correct.

Started this build in September basically out of the box. Kit was molded in tan and I just polished out the tan components. Detail painted to the best of my abilities. This is only the third finished build of mine in 20 years. Wrecker boom is just placed in the bed for now. Still need to add decals, side view mirrors and paint the tool box and tools. I did find that most of the thinner parts such as the windshield frame, boom crank and headlight bar were quite brittle. They all cracked very easily. Not sure if it was because of the way the kit was molded in the shiny plastic or not. Thanks for looking

Finally finished this build for now. Pictures posted in the Under Glass thread.

Great interior details. I know you are still fine tuning it but I have a suggestion. I see you cut the top of the rear seat to simulate it splitting from age and being in the sun. My suggestion is to darken the cotton a bit to simulate dried out foam from being in the sun. Most foam, even when the covers aren't split, turn a yellowish color with age. I wish I had your talent!!!

Started on it this past weekend. Paint is Krylon Burgundy with Krylon Pebble Satin for the engine, front suspension and rims. Interior and top insert was painted with Krylon Bright White Satin. The burgundy was also used for the pulleys, carb scoops and seat belts. Lugs and rim hubs will be painted burgundy also. I'm trying to use parts that were available in the early 60's on this build. The firewall is from the AMT/Lindberg 34 Ford PU. The tach and steering wheel are from an AMT 40 Ford Coupe along with the front rims. Gauge panel is from the AMT 49 Ford. Rear slicks are AMT Firestone "Gum Dipped" 7.50-15 on the kit deep reversed rims. Front tires are Firestone Supremes. Still need to detail paint the rims, sand the slicks and fix a few fitment and alignment glitches. I'm also going to have to repaint the body after it fell and hit a metal floor vent. Chipped the paint on the insert and on the body in a few places. Hope to repaint it over the weekend, until then I can work on detail painting and fitment issues. A big thank you to High Octane for sending me the custom cut away hood.

Okay, got some comparison pictures of kit #6564 from about 1983. The tree with the custom seats and exhaust dumps remains the same as it was back in 1964. The tree with the roll bar, jack stand, harness and seat belts is missing. There are no seat belts at all in the newer release. A is where the custom wheel was Part 2 For some reason I couldn't load Don's original picture, this is from kit #6564 A Headlight Covers B Side Pipe Pods C Battery Box for Lights D Lever for Battery Box Also note the addition of the wheel inners to the right of the hood . Part 3 A Interior Washers B Steel Rims C Tow Bar D Tow Bar Tabs E Custom Hood Scoop Note the addition of two more wheel inners Part 4 A Side Pipes B Disc Brake Rotor and Caliper C & D Custom Rim Knockoffs and Bullets

Scott, here are the instructions from the Drastic Plastic instructions site. Click on photo for larger view.

Don, thanks for taking the time to photograph the original kit. I'll get pics taken of my reissue kit 6564 tomorrow and get them up to compare them. Thanks again for your effort.

Mark, thanks for taking the time to give us an informative history lesson. This is one of the reasons this forum is so great.

Bob, I got that photo from the Drastic Plastic instructions site. I did some other research and found out it was kit # T348. I tried looking it up in The Directory of Model Car Kits by Bill Coulter and Bob Shelton. I have the first edition and it wasn't listed in there. I edited out incorrect year of manufacture info. Mark has provided the correct info further down in post #14

Randy, I don't think any parts from the Multi Maverick would work. I don't have one to compare it to the JoHan kit but I would guess they wouldn't be compatible.

Here's a pic of the only version I have seen, not sure if there were other issues of this kit.

Snake45, thanks for the reply. I have a JoHan Pro Street edition that was used by someone to build a drag slot car. I acquired an unpainted mint body at a local swap meet. I was hoping someone may have the parts from what they've accumulated over the years as I have!! I don't do ebay anymore since my Paypal account was hacked twice a few years ago. I also have a lot of "stuff " available to trade.

Were the tools for the AMT Maverick and JoHan Maverick the same? I did some research on the Drastic Plastic instructions page and they look similar. Also did AMT ever make a Comet in the same style body as the Maverick? Last question, does anyone make any resin replacement parts for the JoHan Comet and do any Maverick body parts interchange? I checked Modelhaus and they do not have any parts listed for a Comet. They did have some parts listed for 1971 Comet Cyclone but I'm assuming they are for the Mid size Mercury. I'm looking for a hood, front bumper/grill, rear bumper, taillights and glass. Thanks

It would be fantastic if someone had an unbuilt original that could take pictures of the parts tree's and post them here.. I have an open but complete kit # 6564 that I could photo shoot for a comparison.

Lawrence, I spoke with my friend yesterday and can give you this info so far. If you are doing a Lumina or older Monte Carlo they used the following factory pieces; roof, trunk lid and hood. The "skinning" process would start with the roof, tops of rear quarters and trunk lid. Next would be the placement of the cowl and hood. The rest of the body would then be hand formed usually starting from the tops of the quarters and front fenders working down and to the bottom of the car. The rear quarters and front fenders would take multiple pieces to be hand formed to get the desired contours. I believe he said the doors were one of the last pieces to be final fitted. I'll have to ask him to clarify a few things. With some careful cutting you could probably duplicate a body being skinned in any stage of the process. Are you doing this with 1/24 Monogram or 1/25 AMT kits?