misterNNL

I'm pretty sure there is two things this Isn't...it's not a '32 and not a Victoria. This appears two an Aurora '34 coupe.

I found the Spaz Stix I used to paint one of my scratch built antique travel trailers at a hobby shop that stocks it for painting the inside of clear RC car bodys. Of course those shops are closed now as they are considered non-essential businesses but you might find a mail order source. If you do acquire some, Don't clear coat it!! I did that and it killed the shine. Evidently the alignment of the paint particles at the surface is what produces the chrome look and adding a clear coat dissolves that outer reflective layer and it looks like aluminum.I made that mistake myself and had to sand and repaint. Good luck with your project.

Gotta love those souped up-hammered down coupes!

Your axle and spring photo will also be handy for deciding what to you on my JF coupes. With slicks and an air cleaner poking through that hood yours is heading more towards street and strip than salt flats I think..

Absolutely outstanding! Thanks so much for taking the time to stage and post these excellent photos. I certainly appreciate your effort and I'm sure a lot of builders will be referring to these for guidance.

Say what?

I saw on Dayton,Ohio TV that a Marathon station there has it for 99.9 Cents a gallon this morning!Like you say that was" long ago and far away when I wore a younger man's clothes"

Nice detail work on your firewall.That really makes it pop with detail.

I'm loving this project.The splicing in of the door panels that include the hinge piece is inspired. I personally would like to see some profile photos of the hood section mounted to the body with the front wheel removed to see where and how you cut into the body and hood to make way for that frame.rail. I have both styles of that JF body in my stash and that section has me scratching my head for a viable solution. Thanks for sharing your considerable talent with us.

I enlarged that price sticker and it reads $ 89,770.00 (!).

Remember to start it and let it run for a few minutes every few days to keep the battery up and the fluids circulating. Tire pressures can also drop when a vehicle sits idle.stay safe everyone.

If no one knows( including you) what color this one of one vehicle was painted then paint it what ever you darn well please and who'll know the difference? That's right.....no one!

Basically all kits are raw material.

I'm glad my tip was useful. I'm building an Omega class Bonneville car and each of the drive wheels will have about 30 separate parts. The inside diameters will be impossible to mold so the Emlers will be used in those areas.

Thanks for posting all of the detailing pictures especially the engine plumbing as that is very difficult to find. Where did the rivet and bolt head come from?

Check Jimmy Flintstone' s site. He is one of several casters offering busses.

For some historical perspective on the model car parts business, some may not know the Modelhaus got their start by making replacement parts for the Zettermans who were and still are in the promo business. They would send Don and Carol a mint condition piece they needed to complete a promo and they would cast and in many cases chrome plate those parts.Don Holthaus told me that they were some times working 12 to 16 hours a day seven days a week to keep up with orders. That's a real world commitment right there.

I know this is legit question.....but my social distanced smart blah -blah -blah -brain came up a flippant answer. That being that I personally try to glue my seats in so everyone inside the vehicle can see through the windshield.

Ingenious technique to accomplish a difficult task! BY eliminating the center of all those areas you were able to retain the integrity of the body profiles.Outstanding work indeed. Thanks for sharing your talent with us.

I actually paid $ 1.27 for unleaded gas today! I never thought I would see that price again.

Thanks as usual for bringing one of the really great shows to those of us unable to attend in person. Cudos for including that '35 Bowlus Road Chief travel trailer in the mix. You knew i'd like that one!

Yes it absolutely to paint over the Elmer' s glue after it has dried overnight. Sorry 'bout running on earlier. My point there was that if spot glaze type putty was available I was not aware of it. You need to remember that little snippet of a memory took place over 60 years ago. With no driver's license my skinny teen age butt was relegated to the center spot of the back seat that afternoon. Fred was winding that Merc flat motor as far as it would go in every gear and that was the fastest yours truly had ever gone. The neddle was indeed straight down for a few miles.

In my high school days I vividly remember sitting on the floor of a local garage based body shop with two classmates watching while the body man filled hood,trunk and side trim holes on a '50 Ford Tudor sedan. He used a wooden paddle and 80/20 stick lead with a blow torch. Eventually he added '53 Buick side trim then lowered and painted it bright red. It was fast with a Merc flathead, dual carbs and floor shifted. That Ford belonged to one of the guys that sat with me then and I rode it several times. Ford Speedos then registered from zero on the left to 85 on the right. I remember sitting in the back seat looking as the Speedo indicator arm went past the 85 mark and stood straight down to what(?)maybe100? Definitely a gear head moment to remember.

Yes. That is one application. A couple years ago I built a model of a Weaver Auto Ambulance which was a device used in the 1920's to tow wrecked vehicles in for repairs. If you Google it you'll see what it looks like. The main piece is a heavy cast part that I built from several pieces of Evergreen sheet and shape. The complexity of it made molding all those small pieces togeather to make it look like a casting was not possible so Elmers was the perfect solution. When I started building model cars there wasn't any putty as we know it today so I used Plastic Wood. If you have some of that around try it on some scrap plastic to see how much fun that was. I pointed that out only as a historic point of reference as I discovered the Elmer' s trick about the same time. That was in the late '50's.

I do a lot of scratch building and use Elmer' s for molding corners where flat surfaces come togeather. This works well in areas where putty based molding is not possible. I apply it mostly with either a tooth pick or a wet paint brush. I let it dry overnight then check for it for gaps and holes. This very seldom works with just one application so be patient, it really is worth the effort.