Speedpro

Thanks Bob! Thank You Craig, Appreciate you checking out the build.

Thanks Brother! Without some of the very in depth conversations we have had, it would have never made it to this point. Thanks for the inspiration.

Bill, you said a word I never thought I would hear in a comment about the mods that I am putting this '30 through. If you look up the word "Radical" one of the definitions say "Very different from the usual". And different is what I'm aiming for. At times I have to let things grow on me also. Thanks for the ideas! You just had to throw in the Suicide door thing didn't ya! It was never in the plans but plans change. I am getting closer to choosing colors though. Thanks for following along

Outstanding Build! I also like that you filled and smooth the front end. Perfect paint and alclad application. That alclad can be tricky. Great pics too!

I like this. Something you don't see everyday! Can't beat 3D printing. I myself have not tried any of this printed parts stuff. If I was younger, I might take some interest in it. For now, there is enough builders using it that I just look at the work they do. Like you!

Alway's fun to see a Monkeemobile! Well done.

Stock is cool. Nice work!

Great weathering. I think its so well done, I would be afraid to ride in it if it was 1:1.

Very nice. Really clean work and I like the color.

The '30 is back with another mod to share. I'v done quit a bit to the body at this point. Things like chopping the top, wedging the body, and filling in the top, you would think would be enough. But there is still one more change or mod I'd like to do. This mod has to do with lengthening the doors a couple inches. And while doing this, the Quarter window will get shorter. I'v always felt the doors on the roadster and coupe kits were too short. I feel that adding 2-3 inches will tend to give the car a longer look....maybe! Started by making the new door line .090 is 2.25 inches in scale. The old lines were filled in will evergreen stripes. the door handle hole was also filled. The added material was sanded down and covered in super glue. It was then sanded smooth. The tops are set side by side so one can see the difference after the chop. A donor top was cut apart. All I needed was the window frames. The top and new window frames were marked. With my exacto knife, the marked area was cut out. Then the new window frame was cut to fit the new opening. The whole time I was worried I would ruin the top and have to start all over. This actually all worked very well. And I would do it again on other builds. I need to start thinking about an engine for this thing. It will take some work to get one in there. That's it for now, I appreciate the comments.

Very nice!

Very nice build!

And yet another outstanding build!

Pretty cool!

Really like your approach to the weathering and adding nice new performance parts concept. Engine is looking great with the details you've added. Nice build.

Cool! Tooling looks very poor. But it looks like you got a handle on this.

I'v been wanting to make a way of being able to attach the floor to the frame repeatedly during the build process. Especially on this '30 as there is quite a bit going on. There are only 4 body mounts. Two holes at the rear and two with a little nub that fits into a recess on the floor at the trans crossmember. The plan is to redesign the mounts at the crossmember. My main goal is to have something that will hold the floor and frame together while I'm working on it. First things first, things are a little tight around the shock mount and exhaust route since the floor is closer now. A couple of recesses were added built with some evergreen sheet scraps. The body mounts at the trans crossmember are the next area I would like to change. Figure if I was to put round rod in the floor were the recesses are for the old mounts, then I could make a tube to slide over the rod. Using this rod/tube method, should be able to install and remove the floor to the chassis as many times as needed. A round tube support frame was built using a old tamiya engine stand from the parts box. For now, everything fits and performs the way I had hoped. After all said and done, This thing just clicks together. The frame will always be in the same spot now also. Good stopping point. And now there are a few more things to ponder and figure out. Next time the body gets another mod.

This is one outstanding build. Engine choice and the roof are my favorites. Great color choices and engine details. Very nice!

Turned out very nice Bill! Great paint and BMF application. Day 2 wheels are perfect.

Geat looking build. Your work is very clean.

The idea for this next mod came from a conversation I had with my good friend Kit karson. Are talks come up with some interesting Ideas. So, what this mod is going to do is give the effect that the frame has been Ze'd, but infact hasn't. It is going to take a fair bit of work to do, but I like a challenge. The first thing to do is add some strips of evergreen on top of the frame rail as shown. This material will be sanded down to make a nice smooth radias on top of the frame rail. To off set the added material on top, the bottom of the rail lost the same amount, keeping the rail thickness the same as when I started. The rail looks taller and flow's better now, which is what I wanted. When the body and frame came together, one area that I found needs help is where the body joins the frame at the reveal on the frame. I had added the extension on the front lower part of the cowl. This needs to be addressed as it needs more room. In this picture, you can see how the reveal on the frame flows up and gets real tight with the bottom of the cowl. What I did to correct this, was to change the angle of the reveal as it flows up the frame rail. This worked perfect. Another area that needed a small addition is the visor. A small piece of scrap evergreen was added to the body, connecting the drip rail to the visor giving it a continuous bead that runs around the top. A little reshaping at the visor was done to complete this mod. Another small detail was to give the frame a nice smooth radius leading to the rear inner fender. Arrows point to areas of the mods. A last but not least, The rear of the frame recieved a part. Out with the square, in with the smooth. In the next update, more work on the frame and floor. Thanks for all the comments. Much appreciated!

Thanks Jim, I love your comment ‘it’s different but I can’t tell HOW’. Thats exactly what I am looking for. I think I'm on the right track!

For this next mod, I want to lower the body a couple inches on the frame, but without actually channeling the body over the frame. Having worked out a seemingly reasonable way to accomplish this, it is the other things that change along the way, that may be the real challenge in this mod. So far, the firewall, trans tunnel, drive shaft tunnel, rear inner fender panels, and all new attachment point (mainly because I don't like the one it has) are just a few of the fun things to come by doing this. Got the frame taped off. The predetermined area of the frame was cut down 3 scale inches checking with the trusty calipers while doing this. Here's with the first fit of the frame to the floor pan/body. You can see how much of a difference this is going to make. I cut enough off the body mounts to get the body to sit on the frame. During a mockup with the interior door panels/rear inner fender panels, I found that some trimming was needed on the bottom of the inner fenders. I want to seperate the inner fender from the door panel, so now is a perfect time to get those fit. At this time, I decided to remove molding on the front of the cowl. I had extended the cowl and had to add to the bottom body line. Got the body sitting on the frame and now have a whole lot more to do. Next time, I'v got some plans for the frame. Thank's for any comments and for checking this out......................

With the wedge in the body done, filling the top is next. Using the kit part of course, test fitting shows the top filler sits too low in the body. There is a channel that the filler panel sits on that needs to have some material added to get the filler panel sitting were it needs to be. Using some .026 sheet, strips were cut and added to the channel in the top. Things were cleaned up and the top put in place to check the filler panel fits correctly. Since the filler panel was raised,the bottom side now needs material added. Using the needed thickness of evergreen sheet, a panel was made to fit the bottom side of the filler panel and glued in place. The filler panel is now ready to be installed using some ca glue. No filler's were used to fill gaps, just the ca glue, then sand and repeat as needed. Next, some primer was sprayed on and sanded smooth a couple times, till things looked good. While I was at it, I recessed the license plate and added a little something to the lower leading edge of the cowl. Next time, the '30 is getting channeled, kinda?

Great looking build. The detailed engine turned out very nice. Your choice of wheels and tires are perfect. This is the first time I'v seen Barbartos Rex's paint. I knew of the paints and colors, just haven't seen the stuff sprayed out. Great job applying it. Looking forward to more updates.