vamach1

I built one a really long time ago (maybe the 1990's) and would probably do a few things different now too. The horns of course should be black. Also pick out the bolts on the shock tower brace with some silver.

Super nice job on the paint. A little dab of red in the rear reflectors and some silver on the radiator cap, hood latch and Master cylinder cap would make those parts stand out more.

One more note. I see a lot of 1:1 73 Mach1's with 72 stripes and I see 72 Mach1'S with chrome front bumper instead of the correct rubber one. I think this just causes more confusion as to what is factory correct.

The Testors also has a 73 trunk decal. The rear spoiler should be lower and further backon the trunk. The grille is 71/72 but the front bumper is from a 73. The blue and pewter ones are the incredible Danbury Mint diecasts. The red one is cheap diecast made by Motormax.

The black one is the Testors prepainted kit so no surprise that is a little off.

Here are the diecast ones i mentioned.

I have only built the Bulllitt diecast and the Red prepainted fastback. I had no assembly issues due to screws used in these kits and the same for the 67 Shelby GT500 in light blue. I like that they were quick builds but have not tackeled the full kit versions which if course have similarities to the 67GT350 kit up to a point. Yours looks great despite the challenges and the heads up.

Here are various grilles from Missing Link. All the models are diecast except the green one.

Does anyone know if they ran a 351C or Windsor or something else or did it depend on the year (mid 80's vs. early 90's)?

Probably one kit Norm Veber does not have.

Front end which has 71/72 characteristics.

It is a strange kit as it comes with a Boss 429 engine. You can make a decent replica of an early 70's Nascar racer mostly forgotten or over shadowed by the TransAm series. i'm pretty sure that is where the decal art came from. Google Wayne Andrews mustang.

You're killing me on that one. :-(

bestmodelcarparts.com. You cut them out and use white glue. They are not a decal - it is like photo paper.

The museum alone is worth the price of admission.

It is an Testors spray can sable brown metallic.

Closeup of interior. I need to touch up the center emblem in the steering wheel to look as good as the one on the glovebox. Amazing what a closeup pictures shows the naked eye has trouble seeing.

Done with except for an engine. The console scream automatic whereas the engine trans and pedals are for a three or four speed. I may use the 260/289 and match it with a C4. The wire wheel covers are resin copies. The underside is painted but nothing special. I tried to replicate the two tone pony interior. The gauges are from bestmodelcarparts.com

What you really want is ..... I have yet to build a stock 73 but is on my list. The good diecasts put the AMT/MPC kits to shame. Notice the Testors wing is was too high.

The Testors is a 71/73 hybrid. 73 Mach1 trunk decal, 71 side stripes and grille and 73 front bumper. The worst part is it has a 70 Boss 429, not a 429CJ or god forbid a 351 Cleveland. You could repaint it, use a 73 Grille and make a 73 Mach1 or sportsroof (eleanor) or grind off the bumper, add a chrome bumper and 351 to do a Boss version (with Magnum 500's. If you want one of the underhood ram air units I can send you one. Here are some grille pictures just to drive you crazy.

Keith Marks has the best decals for 71-73 Mach1's. He also has ones for a sprint and the Shelby Europa.

Here is a hodgepodge of decals from original to reissues to Cady & Marks. Enjoy.

Only the Keith Marks decals are close to correct. The MPC Boss 351 decals are similar to the Fred Cady ones. Some of the original issue kits had the correct stripes and Mach1 for the fenders. I can post a picture of all of them later.

Welcome to all the other middle age builders.

What I have spent in the past is water under the bridge. I have bought resin kits for close to $200 but only a few. The GT40 1/16 and the Fujumi 1/12 GT40 are probably the most expensive plastic kits I have. I will NOT pay hundreds for a $2 model just because it is rare and old. I'm happy with kits in the $20 to $25 range which represents 90% of my stash. I have more detail parts and decals than I will ever use them all but with some of these items you cannot assume they will be available to buy forever unless you want to pay inflated Bay prices. I managed to piece together a nice 68 Mach1 from glue bombs instead of paying $100 for an unbuilt one. I used to buy a lot of 1/43 kits but rarely see any releases anymore that are in a subject matter I do not already have. For whatever reason I feel zero nostalgia for kits I built as a kid and have for the last 35 plus years have stuck to a very narrow type of car (Mustang, GT40, Pantera and Cobra) so this pretty much limits how much I buy. Thanks for reading.