jbwelda

SCCA racer. sort of like that canyon carver but more believable with period correct wheels, lowered down into the weeds, ditch that stupid motor and maybe build a weber carbed V6 from the reissue kit, or as you say just curbside. basically throw away all that carp and get back to reality. jb

try Tamiya Mica Red for a metallic or Italian red for a solid. if what you have on the body is smooth. you might be able to use it as a base coat. then use some Tamiya clear red for an overcoat if you want a deep candy effect. jb

might sound a little trivial...but where exactly is this again? jb

most excellent sir! jb

Stockton NNL and car show and swap meet coming up again this Sunday, 12 Oct 2014. lots of fun and lots of great models by luminaries Jerry Shoger, Jerry Cardinal, Jerry Amaral (way too many "Jerry"s), not to mention other names big and small and a wide variety of subject matter. San Joaquin County Fairgrounds in Stockton, CA, I believe the door pressure is 7$ to get into the event; model contest entry is free. Bring em! jb

yes Bob I believe that is the idea. I have a 53 stude panel van from jimmy flintstone I think that I had planned for the kit I already have; I need to buy another to do this GT Hawk, always one of my favorite designs to come out of America. jb

my advice: use Future floor wax to attach the small photoetch stuff. essentially the same method as with the clear mentioned above, but way less chance of a mess. it can be removed with ammonia leaving no marks if you need to redo it. epoxy is too thick in my experience and will show if not careful. Future will basically not show at all. I generally put a small amount down, put the PE piece in it and position it as I like it, then let it dry. then put a tiny drop on top of the PE piece and its there pretty much for good unless you remove it with ammonia/windex/whatever. jb

most models I build do not have simple stub axles that can be moved up and down at will. hence it gets more complicated to keep it realistic looking. jb

I bought some a couple months back and noticed it was no longer Westleys. seems to work the same though, but that's kind of hard to tell for certain. have soaked 3 resin bodies and a bunch of resin parts in it and painted them with no issues (not self inflicted anyway). I hate when I see tried and true stuff with "new formula" on it. usually means trouble ahead. jb

very nice! do you mind sharing how much it cost? I am thinking probably 50 or 60 $? well worth it from the looks of it, even a nice box jb

they currently have the AMT Elvis Prezley Meyers Manx for about 14$ out the door. plus they have some other good deals seems like to me, especially in the clearance and scratch and dent sections (crumpled box kit 15$, that 1/16 charger just reissued with crumpled box is only 25$). I just spent a hundred bucks there and got 5 kits (2 Manx kits) plus two cans of Tamiya paint. http://www.megahobby.com/125elvismeyersmanx.aspx have at it...I take it this kit is all the other one was just with the Pelvis' name on it, maybe some funny decals or something easily ignored. also picked up the Avanti AMT kit with the kool Judson supercharger setup, the new Mr Speed 53 stude, the wynnscharger kit and the (pricey) paint. not bad for a fin. jb

kind of smelled like...movement. jb

wow John you built a BOAT with that Tommy Ivo four engine setup? how many of those have you done now, three, at least? that's pretty darn amazing not to even mention the quality of the builds themselves. constant amazement from this corner man. jb

the thing about lowering is that a lot of it has to do with whether you care the underside looks realistic or not. if not, proceed as Bill indicated above. but if you want it to look realistic you often have to do some more extensive re-engineering. if its just a plain straight rear axle on leaf springs, you can sometimes cut off the mounting blocks on each end and thereby put the axle closer to the chassis, or sometimes you can dispense with the springs back there altogether (again though not very realistic looking but if no one is looking at the chassis no one will notice). IRS setups are harder but sometimes you can swap the axle pieces left to right and get more offset to lower the wheels like that. or what I often do: trim off the back of the brake disk or drum or whatever and then slide the wheel upward on the axle and glue it there with epoxy, blocking up the vehicle to its ride height with something while it dries. that's kind of the equivalent of what Bill suggests above but I think it retains a bit more realistic look like that. in short theres lots of ways to do it, the trick is figuring out which way works best for what you got to work with. jb

now THAT was funny. jb

what I love are people pontificating on this sort of subject and all the while showing they do not know proper words to use in a sentence. for instance: "know" for "no", "braking" for "breaking", "to" for "too", etc. the point being: how can people who cannot get simple words correct be taken for any kind of authority on "errors" or what is correct and what is not? carry that further with examples of apparent "quotes" or drawn conclusions from a group of words that do not state or even seem to imply the conclusions drawn. this place is a barrel of new laughs every single day. all I can hope is that these people are not involved in the day to day running of a country or something actually important. jb

there is a long time, well proven maxim in advertising: No one ever went broke underestimating the intelligence of their market. perhaps that applies here. jb

oh no he said yes! gotta check the bank account! jb

lotus elise or exige. or elite for that matter. the original jb

see, the point of this sort of discussion is to make that person with the model in his hands look at what is being pointed out. if it all specs out, kool and everything is good. if on the other hand there is in fact some discrepancies, then he can or might be the hero who points it out and gets the problems rectified. making light of the situation just justifies a lackadaisical attitude when it come to confronting the reality of that situation. jb

wowsters! any chance you want to sell kits of that engine? jb

totally excellent! does anything lift off to get a better view at details? jb

beautiful! I always wanted to build one up as a "Little Drag" since they give you the turtledeck in there. excellent build...do you have a built Big T to display it next to? jb

there is no way any angle is going to make that rear window appear to terminate after the centerline of the rear wheel instead of before it as it appears to in that comparison. I would think all this would be valuable input to check out really closely at this stage instead of after it has been committed to production. jb

oh and this one: looks more like the Pink Anteater than the Pink Panther! jb