10thumbs

I would like to own one that's stock!

Hi guys, In my ongoing Question and Answer interest, I'd like to ask what these hoses are for (marked red line)? I've seen them often in my Internet travels, but again I don't know. This series of questions all pertain to my new project. Thanks for looking. More thanks for info. Michael PS: Geez, I've done better. The thick looking rubber insulated hose from head to ...wherever is what I'm focusing on.

Hi Sean, I like the color too. To have consensus there has to be a multiple offer. I don't know of any who make the paint color, do you have some examples to show? I could imagine mixing the paint with H of K products for instance. Who has the color ready to go?

This makes me laugh.

Hi Brad, good to see the progress. Man! Aluminum wire instead of tubing, now that's a cool idea! I wanted to use aluminum tube in 2.5mm, but nowhere to be had. Thanks for the info. The wire you have equals out to 2mm, great. Bending soft aluminum tube is an adventure that I don't need again so soon. How did you fasten the brass wire to the alu wire? Michael

Hi Ed, now that's one real clean model! I really like it, the 65 B Bodies were good looking Mopars. I haven't seen the 65 Dodge done very often, it was one of my favorite A/FXers. Very nicely done, turning wheels too. Excellent. Michael

Well done Shay. That one will be an eye catcher on your shelf.

Hi Joel, I like them too. Very cleanly built and looking good. What kind of motor is in the green car? Looks pretty snappy. Michael

Joe, you did a real nice job on this model ,everything looks right, and a clean good looking paint job too. Good stuff! Michael

PS: I love the slicks on the front! Post #5.

Thanks guys for your interest. Steve Payne, good info. Especially the torsion bar is located inside the tube. This helps, as I couldn't realize where the "action" was when all I was able to view were tubes. Bill, you've shown a wonderful explanation with explicit details and info. Many thanks! You've again cleared up issues and questions. I'm really enthused and excited about modeling this setup in my new project. Guys, look at Bill's post #5 above. This is in my opinion a real cool setup and I'm gonna do it just like this example. So clean and simple looking, the beauty lies within, so to say. Keep it clean, simplification triumphs. Simplification. The key. Wonderful. Michael

A lot of talent and knowledge shows on this model. The effects are really 1:1 super custom. Excellent!

Hi Steve, Very nice paint and above all the polish job! Could you give some insight into what was exactly involved with your polishing adventure? Very nice job. Michael

It seems to me the 392 Hemi heads are offset about an inch, the later Hemi quite a bit more. Therefore the motor from the AMT Bantam Blast is just too wild, it really seems to be too exaggerated for an early Hemi. I checked out http://www.hemihaines.com/Early-Hemi-Engines-6-146.html, there are a couple of clean pics of both motors. The 392 Hemi from Miss Deal kit is nice, barely offset heads. I recently built this motor. The old AMT Double Dragster has a similar block, maybe a bit plainer in design but good, I'll have a closer look at mid 70's Revell F/C Hemis. The Lindberg S/S Dodges are OK too. Does anyone have pics of the Wild Willie or Bantam Blast motor? Michael

Hi guys, I have another question concerning 392 Hemis compared to Gen 2 Hemis. As far as I can tell, the heads on the early Hemis were not staggered like the 2nd generation, meaning left head more forward than the right side. I'm sorting out parts for a new project and trying to get the correct (or at least the best of those I have) Hemi for the build. The motor from the AMT Wild Willie car, as well as the Bantam Altered have a block with the heads staggered, but with the magneto on the rear of the block. The heads are pronounced staggered, it's real obvious. What's the deal? I'm thinking of just changing the block around and fitting a magneto up front, because of the head positions. So, were the 392 heads aligned as a pair, or somewhat staggered at least? I would really like to do a blown 2nd generation Hemi, I have more of them at disposal. Thanks for looking, Michael

You're right with that Jon! I wouldn't want to attempt that construction. Double A-Arms? I'd rather go with a simpler and easier setup for a Fuel altered.

A big price tag lets some folks think they're better than lesser expensive things.

Torsion bar on a hotrod; I like torsion bar setups.

I just found this; http://www.auto-repair-help.com/automotive_maintenance/torsion_bar.php I'll look further.

Torsion bars. OK guys, this helps. What makes the torsion aspect function? Is it hydraulic that provides pressure to keep things in line, or hard rubber? I don't have a clue. Bill, I can understand though what you wrote, and I really like the clean setup, great for my new project! The last pic, maybe a rail dragster? Anyhow, the setup is super clean and I'm gonna do it! Thanks guys for the help. Michael

Hi guys, Take a look here at the front end of this car. Is it sprung? How do these setups work? It can't be solidly attached to the frame, or is it? Could anyone explain how this setup functions, I think I've seen similar on hotrods but I'm unfamiliar with the deal. More pics are here: http://mikesullivanracing.com/news.html Thanks in advance, Michael

Yep.

Looks like you've already done some serious body work. I don't have a clue what these types of cars are but I'll bet you have plans for the future of this project. Michael

Yep, that is exactly what I was referring to, the dual chute mandatory rule. Come on, I wish to have had some insight about chute building a couple of days ago! Not even a peek? Michael

Tim, those are some finicky areas you've soldered there, good work. Question; is this a setup for dual chutes? Are you making the chutes scratch? As always it's fun having a look at the progress. Michael