10thumbs

No problem. I understand now that you're a serious modeler.

I heard there was even a "Special Edition" kit offered with a hole in the right side of the firewall offering room for his pedal to the metal.

Hi Ludwig, just excellent! Your BMF technique is as usual superb. The paint and shine, plus the front stripe, door handles and detailed Chevy crossed flags are top notch. I agree the Camaros looked really good in this color. Place a mini piece of BMF on the door keyholes and you'll get the Gemmersheimer Oldtimer Award for Excellence. lol. But you've already received it several times. Not a bad Chevy for a real life Ford Guy. Folks, Ludwig drives a hot new Mustang, and has an immaculate and top notch '62 Galaxy just for fun. He knows about American Iron. Michael

Good pics Jesse. Even with the F/C his arm is hanging on.

Hi Wes, don't forget space for a heater.

Huh? Do you take money for doing this? From a friend?

Hi Ryan, your model is looking very good! I really admire your work on the Rallye Wheels, very nice. Motor, interior and detailing, very sharp. Michael

Hi Phil, your hotrod is coming along well and the motor looks good. Nice attention to details everywhere. Do you have a color chosen? Michael

Hi Mark, Not to worry, the guys here are gentle, and only very seldom is criticism available. I think it's admirable to offer the choice to criticize or not. I like your model. Good attention to detail that you've well exercised. Personally I think the flat looking black paint under the hood would be better in a more satin look, but as a Mopar guy I prefer body color under the hood, so here I'm out of line. I know the old Pontiacs from back then, as radical over the counter parts were available and not especially expensive. A childhood buddy built his 64GTO with such parts and the thing sounded very radical and for the street it was a handful, actually a pita do drive. It did sound good though! Very hard hitting. Very good attention to the wheel detailing! I like! Michael

The twins look real cute back there. Chevy guys will have issues though. Wanna bet? Dremel-type action can fix lots of issues. Good so.

Hi Brian, Man, those are some fat-a tires back there! Will those buggers turn in the wells? Very nice paint job on a car I know well from back then. I like it! My 340 was red/white interior, brand new. Cowl hood or no cowl hood is the question (for Mopar freaks) ? My opinion, it fits the scene. What motor do you have planned? Interesting, I'll be lookin'. Michael

Hi Brad, Good that you found a decent tube bender. Better is though, you found out a way to use smaller tube with that tool. I used that thing on my Bantam headers which are of 2.5mm tube. I checked a US converter and this came out to between 3/32" and 7/64". Geez, that is not very accurate. I prefer the metric system. I buy only brass tubing that slide fits, and then the various solid rods that go between all of the different diameter tubing. I was then able to push a solid rod into the tube and it bent without making a crease. Better even to heat up the brass till it glows and then quench to soften it up. Later heat the metal up again the same way and let it air cool, then it's back to normal. I just finished up the headers on my project and these things are not easy to do by any means. Your's look good. Good too that you've found some time to progress. Michael

Great shots guys! Kenny B, that's just fantastic!

Chris, Joe is thinking "Wow Factor". Maybe power windows?

I made a piece this morning, I'll keep it. I think it looks similar, and when the motor sits in the frame the overall view looks kind of like a race car type application. I'll blast it with fine beads to get it clean and then a blanket goes around it. I still have to make a small lever that will be designed as a hand lever on the left side of the cockpit. Michael

Reverser. This is from the restored Ramchargers F/C. I think this altogether is a bit confusing. So, this small unit (which should have a blanket) is a way to disengage the direct drive shown in pic #1 and pic #2. OOps, I just found this. It's a Lenco Reverser! Then an explanation from an A/Fuel Racer. Re: How does a top fuel dragster reverse? November 26th, 2012, 05:36 AM "That lever pulls a gear back into a sungear, then the tail shaft spins backwards. They have a centrifugal clutch with 5 disks and 4 floaters against the flywheel, against the fingers on the pressure plate rides a bearing on a tube. It's also attached to a fork then to linkage that connects it to the clutch peddle. When the bearing is pushed forward it pushes the fingers in and it takes the tension off between the last disk and pressure plate.That would be netrual. On the other side of the bearing is a hydrolic ram. It's usually filled with water or somekind of 2w oil. That will control how fast the bearing is allowed to go back and let the finers rotate out. The fingers push against the dough nut in the pressure plate and apply clamping force to the clutch pack. One way to program it would be to have an air activated switch under the gas peddle, it could be converted to an electric signal to a programable timer. It would hold it at a certain point for a certain ammount of time. If you could see it as a line on a computer it would be a serries of little steps. Then it would go back to an air signal to control the ram. Anyway, you push the clutch peddle in after the burnout and pull the brake, after you stop, reach down with your left hand and push the lever forward. If it doesn't go, you can try to let the clutch peddle out a little and see if you can feel it in the lever. If it's ideling to high and you can't push the clutch all the way in pull the fuel lever back some until the engine comes down some. Once you get it in reverse, let your foot off the clutch. Before you get going to fast push the clutch back in. When you pass the starting line, push the clutch back in, pull the brake and stop, reach down with your left hand and pull the lever back. Now, start pumping the brake, and work the peddle until you light the top light. Then pull the fuel lever back, light the bottom bulb, let your foot off the clutch and wait for the flash of yellow." Well this explains why after a burnout it takes forever to get the car to back up.

Thanks Chris, now that this is clear, what kind of development does this pic show? There's the steel clutch can and a driveshaft housing, what is the unit in between? Transmission of some sort? Why wouldn't it be covered as well?

Jon, yeah I think it must be a safety feature, maybe like a hardened steel pipe. This stuff is confusing without a doubt. I want at least a similar to period correct setup for my ongoing project from the early70's. Not even experienced guys on the HAMB are sure about some of these things.

Super pic, thanks Jon! Yep, as I think to have learned, in&out boxes are not for the drag strip. Chris, I read on the HAMB this type of setup needs nitro-fired big hp motors or it just won't work. Is the fat driveshaft then a safety housing? Thanks guys.

Guys, What kind of transmission deal does this cutaway show? As I understand, the clutch is in the round box attached to the flywheel. Why the huge driveshaft? Or is it a safety-type of housing for the driveshaft? And now the real question. No transmission? Is this a direct drive unit? Another, different car from the mid 60's; I was on the HAMB and found out this is not an "in and out box". These were not used in drag racing, even though some folks call them such. In and out boxes were used on sprinters and midgets. Can anyone help? Ahem....Calling Ace! Where art thou? Thanks guys, Michael

Cool car James! I saw recently a '55 210 that had all chrome removed. I mean zero. The body was smooth as glass, and done in a super glossy black. The only chrome on the whole body was around the headlights, and the plain bumpers. Not even the windshield had a chrome strip, just the wipers. The car was breathtaking imho. Michael

Hi John, Your project is looking good! About styrene difficulties for metal type guys....amen to that. Is the Hemi from the kit? It seems to be healthy-sized. Michael

By the way, on the wifes' Notebook it's "squashed" too. Mine is OK, different screen resolution. I've only noticed this with this particular thread.

Very nice build! I don't see too many of these Fords. The car was pretty flashy back in the day, got lots of looks.

Wow! That is a nice green paint job. Beautiful model, I love the diorama too. Great work Carl! Michael