Pete J.

Oh yea, a course ground brown mustard. We used that in Nebraska on brats and polish sausages. Never bothered with a bun. Just a blob on a plate and dip the wiener in and enjoy! Also the only way to enjoy a runza! Lots of kids in the area who's names ended in -ski.

I also, would like to see them, though I doubt there is any damage. Glass is really pretty tough and since it is hitting relatively flat surfaces, the chances of a chip are pretty small. I remember bouncing marbles off of ceramic tiles as a kid and they bounced pretty well and I don't ever recall one breaking or chipping except if you hit the edge of something.

Take a trick from the armor and aircraft guys and mask it off with Silly Putty. Oh, yea, clear coat it first or anything sticky will take the decal off. Just don't leave the Silly Putty on any longer than it takes to paint. You can roll it out and cut it to get a straight line. If conforms very nicely.

You aren't using something like this are you? I can see the damage your photos showed with this type of rig, especially if it doesn't have a timer on it.

Yea, I remember that. I don't know about you grunts, but the Air Force ones came with a tiny bottle of Tabasco. That is about all that made them edible. Oh and by the way the Flight lunches were far better!

Good lord man! How hard are you shaking that? I have never seen that. Crazy.

I understand Taco Bell. Here is SoCal we have ...'O's all over the place and any given one will produce tacos and burritos that are ten times better than any thing Taco Bell sells, but some times I just gots to has a cheap Taco Bell Taco. I suppose it goes back to my days in college when I couldn't afford anything else and they really tasted good when I was hungry. Oh, you haven't heard of the "O's"?? It is a local mom and pop taco shop with the O at the end of the name. You know, like Roberto's, Umburto's, Alberto's. There is one about every 500 yards. Great stuff, local cuisine! I once saw a post that someone put up about Taco Bell. It went something like this. #3!! no I'm not going to Taco Bells for the authentic Mexican cuisine! I'm going because I only have $5 and I like tacos!

Brian, I will add to the choirs of "I've never seen that happen". I live down the coast in San Diego and my garage is not air conditioned so ambient temp and pressure is normal. I literally have a hundred or so cans of Tamiya paint any where from new to 15 years old. I have had the plastic valve fail once or twice but that is about it. If you have ever take a Tamiya can apart(I do when I decant it to get the last bit out) the balls are glass and less that 1/2" in diameter. I doubt you could shake it with enough force to get that much denting. Tamiya suggests swirling the paint because shaking causes more of the propellant to dissolve in the paint. This will result in bubbles as it comes out of solution in areas that you spray too thick, like panel lines. It is unlikely that ambient air pressure has anything to do with it. Here at sea level the pressure is greatest and higher air pressure would have the opposite effect on the can. If it were to high the can would crush not bulge. Extreme low pressure would be needed to do this and I have had aerosol cans in aircraft(insect spray for decontamination on international flights) above 15,000 feet and not seen this effect. I also keep the cans I am using in a food dehydrator that runs at 110F and never had this issue. It looks to me like you may have been unlucky enough to have gotten your hands on a defective can or maybe it is a knockoff. You are not that far away from the Tamiya North American HQ in Irvine. It might be worth a drive down to show them. They are really good people and I am sure they would be interested in seeing the can. If they have a defective batch, they would want to know.

Not sure that fabric is the is answer. In spite of what they look like, every bra I have owned is made of vinyl and does not have a raw fabric finish. The only fabric/mesh is the net over lights and turn signals. The bra is there to protect against stone chips and is there for quite thick. It is a vinyl with a heavy cotton batting on the back side to protect against scratches. I think your best choice is to do something similar to a vinyl top. Thick masking tape sprayed with a matt black paint. Some black lace would work fine for the screen parts.

You really can't say you have reached the ultimate until they start up and run. Check this out. Yea, it is a nice Offy but look at the other engines in the back ground. I see a Pan head Harley and a Ford Flathead at least. There are a ton of miniature machinist out there that put most of this stuff to shame.

935 build that I did several years ago. Thanks for the comment.

I get there myself from time to time. It is interesting how stalled builds seem to resurrect themselves in the middle of the night. Something I couldn't figure out, suddenly becomes clear. This is one of my favorite, where do I stop builds!

In my mind this is a question of art. We are creating something to fool the eye to believe that it is seeing reality. On a model the bolts have little or no structural purpose like they do in on the real thing, except perhaps to locate an item. So the question becomes, "How far do you want to go?". I build to a "can it be seen". Standard. No sense in doing something that will be hidden. The other option is to create a photo album of the build so others can see your work.

Here is Ca, there are a lot of white cars but frankly that is more a function of 365 days of sunshine and not so many garages. White paint doesn't degrade as quickly as dark colors. Frankly, I think you can blame the Japanese for the significant reduction in paint and interior colors. Those of us who lived through the Japanese car invasion in the seventies remember that Japanese cars came in about three or four colors with 2 color interiors. My 72 240z had 10 colors with 2 interiors. At the same time you could custom order a mustang in 32 different colors with 3 different color vinyl roofs and 9 different color stripes and 18 different interior colors. The Japanese didn't have the option to do that. At the time because of the scarcity of 240zs you got on the list and took what ever came in or you went to the end of the list. Net, I am sure it cost the Japanese a ton less in production costs to limit the color combinations. It didn't take the US manufactures to long to figure that out. The days of the custom ordered car is long gone. You want something different, you either have it resprayed or the dealer searches other dealers to see if it is out there.

Correct ---Her's is a contraction of Her is. My all time favorite bit on the language we speak and then try to wright, or is it right?

When it comes to car builders being cheapskates, it has to do with the e-boards like this one. There is no doubt that if a builder want's something bad enough they will pay the price. However, it seems like every time a new kit comes out, someone has to complain about how much it cost and that is generally followed with the famous "It's not worth it comment!" Start talking about Tamiya or MFH kits and someone will invariably chime in about how expensive they are. My attitude? I have a choice. Buy it or don't but don't. Oh, and the most expensive kit was Scale Motorsports 935 superdetail kit. $500. Yea, I know, not a kit but it might as well be.

I am always surprised by customers who feel that the price of something should be based on the amount and cost of the raw materials and discount the time and skill that went into creating it. It is very much like what we do as modelers. I don't know how many times I have declined people who offer me "a hundred bucks" for a model thinking that they are being generous. When I tell them that they are offering me $4 and hour for my time, I often get the deer in the headlights look. I am not surprised that 1:43 scale kits are expensive. Look at what MFH gets for a 1:20 scale kit. Smaller requires more precision. Large scale requires more detail. It is a trade off but the end result is similar cost. As with most things development is a huge part of the cost. Ten years ago I was told by Tamiya that a set of molds for a car cost about $500,000 to make. Because they can produce thousands of kits from those molds the cost per unit goes way down. The small companies molds don't cost any where that much but amortizing the cost over far fewer kits raises the price.

If you would get Tamiya thinner and add a small amount after each use, it should stop that. Every time you open the bottle you are letting a little solvent evaporate. If you replenish it, you should be good. Although they say that acrylics are water based, they are actually alcohol based. If you smell acrylic thinner is has a decidedly alcohol smell. If you can't get Tamiya thinner then go to your local drug store and get some 91% alcohol. Don't use the 71% rubbing alcohol as it has some other stuff in it that makes it "rubbing". Tamiya thinner is best as it has other ingredients in it that closely matches the solvents in their paints. From time to time I go through all of my bottled paints and add a bit of thinner just to top them off. You will get some evaporation in all bottles even glass.

Interesting. I have 4 of the kits. Two High Techs and two double kits(Isetta and KR in one kit). All of them are clear. Not sure when the double kits came out but it makes since to have the high techs in clear because of the extra metal detail they include.

Yes, I go some of the "improved" and complained to the company about a coating in the foil. They said that it wasn't coated. Don't know what they did, but it doesn't burnish down well as the old and it doesn't hide the seams as well. I don't know what the "Improvement " is but I would rather have the old stuff.

The part of Nebraska I am from, most fields are either 80 or 160 acres. That is because we always let a field sit fallow for a year(crop every two years) Since most land out here is sold in quarter sections(160 acers) half of that would be 80 acres. If a farmer has two adjoining quarters he will most often farm them as one, thus 160 acres or half of 360. The major factor becomes the road system. Except where they can't be built economically, all rural(dirt) roads are laid out in section(1 mile per side) grids. This dates back to the early days of the railroad. I a deal with the railroads, the government gave the railroads every other section of land adjoining the land given to them for the railroad right of way. They could sell or rent the land as they saw fit. After that, it was just natural for the surveyors to lay out the remainder of the land in 1 mile squares.

It is kind of hard for me to get my head around too! That thing is a monster. Here is video of a couple of them in action. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=john+deere+combines&&view=detail&mid=85AFC29F461EB98B2F7985AFC29F461EB98B2F79&FORM=VRDGAR Imagine trying to maneuver this beast. For those who don't know combines steer with the rear tires. It takes a little finesse to drive one of these. To make it more difficult, they are very top heavy so you really have to know what you are doing on uneven ground. Lots of operator skill needed to do this right.

Scott, we got our 55 used but it was only a few years old. The 55's were introduced in 1947 and produced through 1969. You can tell the early ones, but the block letters on the side of the grain bin. Later ones had script letters set at an angle. We had a big orange Minneapolis-Moline before that. The day it broke is seared in my memory. We were just leaving the yard. I was behind Dad driving the truck and he had just put it in road gear when something in the transmission failed locking up the two big tractor tires on the front of the machine. It stopped immediately at about 15 or so mph. it rocked forward lifting the rear tires off the ground a good 12 or 15 feet and stood it up on the header before it came back down. It hit the header hard enough to bend it in the middle. I don't know how Dad hung on with nothing to hold onto except the steering wheel. He got off the machine and looked as frightened as I had ever seen him. He was pretty shaken and that says a lot for a guy who flew PBY's in the pacific against the Japanese. He got back on the machine after he calmed down and slowly backed in into the yard and parked it. We went into town and bought a JD 55. We never bought anything but John Deere after that. Oh, and you talk about the new stuff. The 55 had a 14 ft. header. My cousin just bought a new machine with a 42 ft. header. I can't come to grips with a machine that size. It is doing the same job as three of the old 55s.

I know what you mean! I consider myself an antique kid! Makes me feel better.

I was cruising the internet today looking to see how the wheat harvest was going near the family farm in Nebraska and came across this video. This is the view I had as a kid growing up on a farm, both as a passenger(I drove truck from the time I was about 9) and as the operator when I got into my early teens. Yea, we started driving early on the farm. It was a necessity, not some privilege.