Straightliner59

I have another one that I started playing around with, to build a car inspired by Bruce Larson's USA 1, with the "bent" injector stacks. I don't know how I developed such a "thing" for all those goofy old Monogram kits, but, here I am! The GTO would be cool!

I believe I saw this, recentlt, while wandering around the forums. You did a great job, with it! I can't see the other pic.

It was yours that caused me to remember that I might have photos of this one. Yes, it can be built! I don't recall having too much trouble with it, but, that was a while back!

I just ran across these photos of a Monogram '66 Malibu I built 20, or so, years ago. I think the paint is an auto touch up color, but, I wouldn't swear to it. It's pretty much OOB, except for the Otaki wheels and tires. Sorry the pics are bad--early digital camera. My then girlfriend (2003) took these at the friend's apartment, I gave it to. I ended up in Minnesota, my friend died, so, I have no idea where it is, now. Comments, criticisms welcome. Thanks for looking!

Shoop is correct. I referred to it as monofilament, because there are also braided fishing lines. Those won't work. I am glad you guys are finding it useful! Thank you all, for the kind words! Have fun!

Another way cool project, Bernard! Nice work, sir!

Sure thing! Thanks for looking.

Wow! A Maserati from Missoula, Montana!

I remember when the only Hobby Lobby in Minnesota was in either Albert Lea or Rochester! I can't recall which (although Rochester makes more sense), I just remember it was "down south".

Sweet! I've been watching those, too. One of these days...

Amazing and beautiful work, Tim! Your fit and finish is fabulous. Keep up the great work!

Since zip ties are so commonly used on race cars, I decided to figure out how to make them. I first used this technique in the late '90s, when I built the top fuel engine pictured below. I used Clover House black nylon monofilament for the one in this tutorial, but, those on the fuel motor's plug wires were made using monofilament fishing line. They can be made fairly quickly, and, they are pretty convincing! To begin, you'll need the following: X-Acto knife, a small scribe (anything that will pierce the monofilament, without tearing it "out"), a heat source (I use a lighter, but an alcohol lamp is just as good, maybe better), nylon monofilament (I used Clover House, because it's black. I have it in .011", .014", .015". Fishing line also works, and comes in different colors, too.) tweezers, super glue, and an applicator (I use a small wooden dowel, with a headless straight pin cemented into the end). A pin vise can be useful in cleaning out the holes, but, it isn't necessary for the application. Begin by cutting a six to eight inch length of monofilament. If you have a smooth-jawed vise, use it to flatten a segment of the mono, on one end. This step is optional, but, it does add a subtle touch of realism. Slowly push the end of the "mono" toward the flame, until it begins to melt, and forms a ball on the end. Gently mash the molten blob between your thumb and forefinger, to flatten it. If the "flat" is too distorted, it can be trimmed to shape with the knife. You should end up with something that looks similar to this: Next, using the scribe, awl, or other puncturing device, poke a hole through the now flattened end. Now, feed one end of the mono around/through the desired location. In this instance, I am using the "zip-ties to bind a return fuel line to the frame tube (see arrows in image, below), so, the mono needs to go around the lower frame tube and the fuel line, but, nothing else (I only provide this caveat out of my own experience--you can learn from my frustrations!). Now, feed the "virgin" end of the mono through the hole in the flattened end. Now, pull the monofilament taut, securing the line to the frame tube. Secure the tie by applying a tiny drop of super glue to the mono, where it passes through the hole (couldn't actually photograph this operation, because I only have two hands, and lack the necessary control for this operation with my left hand). You should end up with something like this: Now, simply snip the mono to the desired length, and you're done! Here's a shot of a fuel motor I built a couple of decades ago. I used Clover House line for the fuel lines and fishing line to make the ties for the plug wires. Here's photo with loose zip-ties, to illustrate how nicely they represent the real deal. The best way to represent any item, in scale, is to make it from the same material ad the real thing. While that isn't always a realistic goal, in this instance, is easy to accomplish using readily available materials and tools. Give 'em a shot, next time you need to tie up a loose end, or two (Sorry. Bad pun. It's genetic--I got it from my dad!)

I just discovered that the earliest photos I have of my junior fueler were taken on 12/31/2000! I'm going to finish in under 20 years!

You guys that can do this kind of conversion work amaze me! Hell, I don't ever see half the inaccuracies that you guys do, much less could I turn a '72 Torino into a '77 T-bird!. Nice work, for sure. It's gotta' be black magic! :-)

Thank you, David! Speedy is one rapid rodent!

NIce! Great work!

I'm in for round 3! Still plugging away! Created some cowl art. Driver will be "Don", to honor my great friend and mentor, Don Fahrni.

I've never seen it, but, that sure would be nice!

I agree with Snake. It's orange. I have always thought it to be orange. Every photo of that particular Duster shows the "California" text to be red. It is obviously darker in color than the rest of the car. Also, compared to the Sox and Martin car, in the opposite lane, which we know is red, Leal's car looks orange. Here's another photo from the Petersen archives in which the car appears to be orange. The later Duster also appears to be more red, than this car. Them's my thoughts! Dammit, I have been wanting to build this car, forever, and, this has my interest piqued!

I use aluminum duct tape for hose clamps. Just cut a this strip, and wrap it around the hose, and you're done!

I have a Cady sheet for that car. It just says "red" for the car color. The red lettering on the sheet is very close to Testor's 1203. I agree with folks who said it looks orange, in some photos. I think that may be a white balance issue. Of course, I have no scientific evidence of that! I love the early pro stocks. This makes me want to use the AMT Duster I have and do one to go with my 'Cuda!

I have recused myself from round two of "Gitter Done!". I just have too much left to do. I am already in, for round three, should it happen. I didn't have aluminum wire in the proper size, for the main fuel line. I ordered two lengths, one in '040" diameter and the other in .052". I opted to use the .052". I soldered the three-way return/shutoff valve from four pieces of brass, and added a lever/linkage from an unknown photo-etched set. The shutoff "cable" has been stripped, and is ready to attach to the valve, once I have permanently mounted it. I need to make the fittings for the main fuel line, then, it can be attached. I am going to make a small manifold for the return lines, so that I can use a single, rigid return line back into the tank. I also started playing around with the headers. I'll be fabricating a flange to mount them to. Over the weekend, I will have this part of the fuel system done, and will, once again, remove the body, so that I can finish up, in the cockpit, and get the body mounted permanently. I also plan to write and shoot a proper tutorial on making scale zip ties. Questions and comments always welcome! Thanks for looking!

If there's a round three, I'm already in! Thank you for your understanding.

I have regrettably come to the conclusion that my dragster isn't going to make it, before the deadline. I am glad that I threw in, because it kept me pushing, sometimes, even when I maybe should have stepped away, for a day or three--but, I have been, and continue to be inspired. Thus, work will continue until this baby is completed. So, I'm in for round three, should that happen! I didn't have any aluminum wire of the correct size for the main fuel line, so, I ordered two small rolls, on Monday, of .052" (16 ga.) and .040" (18 ga.). Those arrived, today. I opted for the .052". I got it bent and fitted. It's not installed, yet, because I need to make the fittings. I also soldered up the three-way shutoff valve. I need to strip the "cable" for the shutoff and paint the valve, then I can put all of that together. Then I will get back to the cockpit and rollcage. I'm disappointed I can't finish, but, I am happy with the model, and that's more important!

Michael's, Hobby Lobby and Walmart should all have pastels. That's what I use for weathering. Just shave some off with the edge of an Xacto blade, or some coarse sandpaper. Works great, and much cheaper than hobby specific products!