StevenGuthmiller

Here's a couple of great lines from one that I just watched again this evening. "I have not yet begun to defile myself." "It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds." "I'm your huckleberry." Steve

It is easy for someone who has seen "the Godfather" as many times as I have!! "Leave the gun. Take the cannoli". Steve

Yes, they did. These are more perfect examples. They also did the '61 and '62 Fords. Steve

Personally, I almost never sand between coats of primer. As David mentioned above, I do all of my body prep then shoot a light coat of primer to check for areas that might need more work. If all is good, I shoot several more light coats of primer allowing at least a couple of hours of cure time between each. As long as there is no dust or other blemishes between coats, I don't sand. Then it's just a matter of doing the same with the color and clear coats. Rather than spend a lot of time sanding between every coat of primer, paint and clear, I prefer to use that time polishing the final clear coat. To this point it has worked very well for me. I rarely wind up stripping a body for a repaint. Keep in mind that I use automotive lacquers almost entirely. The type of paint that you use will make a big difference on the techniques that you should use to achieve the best results. I admit that my method of using as many as 5 coats each of primer, paint and clear is unorthodox among modelers, but it is a process that I have developed over nearly 50 years of building and it rarely fails me. Steve

I thought that this was going to be an easy one. The answer is Warren Beatty in "Bugsy". Steve

I think you're thinking too much. Steve

Correct, but we're talking about an 8 year old kid here. Steve

Not all of the models out there are top of the line models. There are quite a few lower end kits that have been produced in recent years. ( the AMT '62 Belair and Moubius '61 Catalina and Ventura kits are just a couple of examples). Even some of the older kits were not the top of the line. I'm pretty certain that this was done to avoid wheel base changes so that existing kit chassis could be shared between kits. A couple of examples would be the original and modern AMT 1958 Edsel Pacer kits, and some of the Johan and AMT Olds 88 kits. AMT also produced Buick Invictas in place of the top of the line Electra in some years. I'm sure that there are many others, but these just come to mind. I agree that there are not a lot of base models, but the model companies are interested primarily in what sells. A 1960 Ford Fairlane 4 door sedan may have been Ford's bread and butter in 1960, but I'm pretty certain that compared to a Starliner or Sunliner, it probably wouldn't have been very popular among modelers. Steve

Correct. This has been true since the dawn of the plastic model car kit. One example that I know of is the AMT 1958 Pontiac Bonneville. The "hash mark" vent trim on the lower front quarter panel was apparently taken from the original GM drawings. As a consequence, the model had 5 trim pieces, while the 1:1 ultimately ended up with only 4. Another mistake on the same model was the "Pontiac" block lettering on the hood and trunk lid. The 1:1 Bonneville wound up with "Bonneville" lettering in it's place. Steve

Here's another from one of my favorite movies. Hint, Christian Bale stars. "P-51 Mustang. Cadillac of the sky!" Steve

No guesses? Steve

Unforgiven. Steve

Easy one here. Just finished watching this classic again this weekend. "Twenty Dwarves took turns doing hand stands on the carpet". Steve

Agreed. Duplicolor, like most lacquers, dries well enough to handle within a matter of minutes. Remove the tape as soon as it's able to be safely handled. Steve

Another thing to remember is that it's relatively simple to remove any goofs with a little thinner. If you use enamel, a sharpened tooth pick dipped in mineral spirits will take the paint off of any areas where you get a little crazy and it won't hurt the clear plastic. If using acrylic, I would imagine that water would do the same, although it would probably need to be removed more quickly. The enamel goofs can be cleaned up at any time. This is another technique that I often use and it works great for any detailing where you are using enamels over lacquer paints as well. The mineral spirits will remove the enamel without damaging the lacquer underneath. Steve

For small details, I use what you might call a "semi dry brush" technique. I dip a small pointed brush in the paint and then "roll" it over a paper towel. The rolling serves the purpose of not only removing a good portion of the paint from the brush, but it also rolls it into a fine point. I can do some pretty small details this way with a fairly large brush. I basically use one brush for the vast majority of my detail painting and let the paint do the work, not the brush.......if that makes any sense to you. Steve

I really wish that all of you guys from Winnipeg could be there Wayne. I don't think it will be the same without you. Best wishes to all of you, and I really hope to see you all next May. Steve

Is it possible that I could be among the first in model car history to have the same models displayed at 2 separate NNL events at exactly the same time? Just entered several of my builds in the on-line 2020 ACME Southern nationals show to take place between November 1st and 7th. At the same time, some of those same models will be displayed at the 2020 NNL North show to take place In Bloomington Minnesota on Sunday, November 1st after being postponed from May. I can't see that happening to me again! Steve

Thanks Steve! I entered 3. A lot of really nice entries there! Lots of very stiff competition. Steve

I was just going to suggest to the OP to post in the "Wanted" section for a replacement body, but I see it may already have been resolved. In the future Ryan, ask if anyone has any replacement for parts that you may need in the wanted section. This is a very common kit and it's very likely that someone would have a spare body that you could either trade for, or quite often, one of the more generous members of the forum might even send you one for free if you just pay for the shipping. I have been on the receiving, and giving end of this type of arrangement on this board numerous times. Steve

Actually it usually looks better in my opinion to apply a colored embossing powder that is close to the interior color over the painted floor rather than paint it the exact same color as everything else. Carpet is rarely exactly the same color as the rest of the interior, so it looks great to have a little contrast. Steve

I'll bet it's the same material as their "graduated window tint". An elastic vinyl film. If this is the case, one thing that I can tell you is that you better have the positioning right the first time. Once this stuff sticks, it's not coming off and still be usable. The window tint requires water to be applied to the surface prior to the material to aid in positioning. If this stuff is the same material, it's kind of a big PITA to use. Not even a close alternative to BMF. Steve

Steve

I wouldn't even consider it, regardless of how good it is, for that kind of price. BMF is fantastic stuff, and with twice as much product for half the price, I can see why nobody has heard of the Hasegawa stuff. Steve

Well, if you know anything about me, you'll know that I love weird colors! And hey, that's part of the fun of building. Push the envelope a little! After your above post, I got to looking at the colors available on the '70 Olds. I was surprised to see that you didn't miss a color called "Regency Rose" by much at all! I had no idea this color was available. It wasn't available in '69, but I have to tell you, If I ever build a '70 Olds, this color will be right up there at the top for consideration. I suppose that I should apologize and thank you for opening my eyes. We all can learn something new from every post. Steve