StevenGuthmiller

I've never tried this technique before, but I'm not above stealing other people's ideas. Thanks Kurt. I'm going to try that. I think that I might start off by just taking a slice off of the bottom of each tire with a #11 blade first to save some grinding, and then refine them with a little sanding. Steve

Not so much at my house anymore! My wife has pretty much nothing but plastic hangers these days! Steve

Whatever is required for a particular build to get the model to "sit" correctly. If I can do it without any extra effort and have them turn, I will. If they're sloppy or loose, they get glued. Mine all go into individual display cases, so I don't worry about them rolling away. Steve

Great tool! I have the same one as well. I use it constantly!!! Steve

The problem with tube glue is the fact that it is a solvent that bonds by "melting" the plastic parts together. To remove it means that you need to somehow remove plastic. If you have parts that are very stubbornly bonded together, the only solvents that will loosen it will also destroy the surrounding surface. Like straight acetone. Guaranteed to destroy the body if you are not extremely careful with it. Steve

I especially enjoy restoring vintage kits and using modern parts to upgrade them. Vintage kits are pretty much the only thing I build now, because I love the challenge of seeing how these old kits can benefit from some modern techniques. Plus the subject matter is completely different from what's available today. Steve

The nice thing about using plastic rod is you can cement it down as you go, inch by inch, in any shape, on any contour you desire, very quickly and easily with a liquid cement like "Plasti-Weld". The draw back is that you have to paint it afterwards. I have used wire or plastic and wrapped it with thin strips of BMF and then painted it to resemble tape wrapped wire. It works okay, but it takes time and it's a little "fiddly" to do. I used this technique on the firewall of my '65 Fury. Steve

You're right. Sorry about that. As I was working on the fuel pump, lines and filter at approximately the same time, I guess I had "fuel" on the brain. Steve

Today I spent a considerable amount of time trying to get the intake hoses configured correctly on my '68 442. The will be glued to the air cleaner, but not the chassis so that the air cleaner and hoses can be lifted out as a unit for display purposes, so everything needs to fit just right. I believe I'm getting close. Steve

I think he might mean just engine compartment wiring for looks. I've been doing mine lately with styrene rod and stretched sprue cemented in place and painted later. Steve I will still be adding wire tie downs to these. Steve

Best part is, they won't be playing the Packers!!! Steve

Almost there. Steve

With the engine nearly finished, it's time to get the intake hoses figured out. They will need to be attached to just the air cleaner so that the air cleaner may be removed for display purposes, which means they need to be pretty much exact so that they can be slid back into the engine compartment without any interference anywhere. I believe I'm getting pretty close. Steve

I don't know. You might want to ask Kris Morgan. He's a member here. Steve

I don't even like the look of these T-Birds, but.........Wow!! Steve

Thanks for looking everyone! The Bonneville is taken. Steve

Hi guys. Just wanted to give a heads up that the AMT '64 Pontiac Bonneville that I was offering in the trade section is again available. This time it will be offered complete. What you see is what you get. Go take a look! Steve

I got my first dozen distributors from Kris, (Morgan Automotive Detail) through a trade for an old promo a couple of years ago. Still have several left. I guess the price point all depends on how many projects you finish. I finish 2 or 3 builds a year. It's well worth the $15.00 a year to me not to have mess with making and wiring my own distributors. Steve

She's a beauty! If it were mine, I would paint it, foil it and finish it bone stock! Should be a very cool addition to your collection. Steve

That's one of the really nice things about M.A.D. pre-wired distributors, like the one pictured on my Olds engine above. Each distributor includes a resin base and a length of larger diameter wire for making the plug boots. You just strip the jacket from the wire and cut the jacket into short lengths to be inserted as boots into the heads. The boot jacket is exactly the right size for the plug wire to fit snugly into it. This not only gives you a nice boot detail, it also makes assembly extremely easy!! Steve

Aluminum? I decided to make some from sheet styrene this time. Although I have used aluminum in the past. Steve

that was my thought. just take all of you prospective items down to the room, plug it all in, and see if the breaker holds. Steve

Okay guys. Might be wrong on this one. Pretty certain that I've seen electricians do this over my 30 years in the construction business. Anyway, I doubt very much that the OP is going to have issues anyway. If you trip a breaker when you crank up the compressor, turn off something else. You're not going to have issues with tripping a 15 amp breaker running a computer, a couple of lamps and a Dremel tool. And, as I said, if you do, turn something off. As we speak I have 5 plugs in a surge protector behind my television and at least a half a dozen other items plugged into outlets throughout my family room, including my desktop computer and all of it's associated equipment, all running on one 15 amp breaker. Never once tripped it. Steve

First question. Fuses, or breakers? If you have breakers, it's likely that it will be a 15 amp breaker. If it is and you're worried about overloading the breaker, replace it with a 20 amp. You shouldn't have any issues with a 20 amp breaker. Steve

Today I was honored to apply some custom made decals that were so graciously provided by our great brother in arms, Bob Spedding, (TooOld). He did a fantastic job on these and provided an invaluable service to me by making these decals! As far as I know, there are no '68 Olds 442 engine bay decals available anywhere in our hobby, especially for the air cleaner. I also got a few other details finished on the engine, including the coil, fuel line, and a bit of throttle linkage. Steve