StevenGuthmiller

Yes, it's the "sister" kit of the Monogram convertible. Sorry, I guess it was marketed as a Monogram kit, not Revell. Steve

No Rusty. Not this time. Sticking with the yellow. I did get a fresh sheet of foil today, so I can get back on the task of foiling the rest of the body. Then I need to get on the interior! Steve

With something like a grille, regardless of what you use, you will have better results if you clean off the high spots anyway. There really is no "magic bullet" that you can just apply and leave it. I use slightly thinned acrylic craft paint & then I clean off the surfaces that are supposed to be chrome. It takes a little time, but then again, anything that's worth doing does. I think the results speak for themselves. Steve

What about the Revell kits? Steve

I had a discussion with another member recently regarding that molding running through the center of the body. I wasn't absolutely sure about whether or not a molding was available. Personally, I would remove it, but I have seen photos with a molding along that line. But they are very few & far between. Most likely an added feature to guard against body damage from door dings, etc. Possibly a dealer installed option, or owner added? Either way, if you would decide to treat it as a molding, it wouldn't be entirely incorrect. Steve

I concur! Steve

Son, you have a long way to go before you can consider this a problem! You're gonna have to do better than that! Steve

If you are meticulous & are looking for an exact match, I would take jas1957's suggestion and contact MCW. While they do not currently list "Matador Red" as being available in a spray can, they do carry the airbrush paint & will package it in a spray can for you if you choose. Of course this service will cost you extra. But it's likely that something like this is the only way that you will get an accurate match. If "close" is all that you are after, there are a ton of reds on the market. Somebody should know if there is one in particular that is close. Steve

If by "disregard this" you mean should we disregard this entire thread........Yes, I believe we should! Steve

I have very few left that I really want & have yet to find. They include a '66 Buick Skylark GS, '64 Olds Cutlass, & a '63 Mercury convertible. I also wouldn't mind finding a '66 Barracuda. But my "true" Holy Grail kits have already been fulfilled. Things like a Johan '61 Plymouth Fury and '66 Chrysler 300, both of which I've already built. Steve

Yeah, I don't have any information in front of me pertaining to who makes them. I have just seen them. Steve

No plastic kits, only resin. Steve

No, because nobody "KNOWS" anything about the actual kit! Steve

I rarely have issues with Duplicolor clear fogging, but I did this time. It was no problem to polish it out to a brilliant shine. Steve

We're modelers, but we still have other ideas & interests. Most of us can walk & chew gum at the same time. Steve

A clear coat should take care of any blushing issues if they are just minor ones due to humidity. I had some fogging on the last two color coats & all four clear coats of the above pictured '60 Imperial. Each successive coat eliminates the fogging below it leaving only the final coat to polish out. Most times, I can rub some of that fog off with my finger, so it generally takes very little polishing effort to remove it. Steve

No, I don't. But as I'm sure you well know, if this section were to be eliminated, those subjects will still wind up somewhere on the forum, in areas where they absolutely don't belong. Think of the "Off Topic Lounge" as a sort of "quarantine" area for topics that we don't want to hear about. Steve

You're assuming that I might finish it before the snow flies Bruce! Steve

Perfect! Steve

The wrinkling on plastic is very likely the plastic crazing. The answer is good primer, and plenty of it! I use virtually nothing but automotive lacquers, including Duplicolor, and yes, there is the potential for issues with any hot paint used on plastic. But if you do it right, you will have no issues. My "right" way of doing it, (and yes, there are many others) is to use as much primer as possible without hiding detail. In order to ensure that you will not have crazing problems when you shoot those "wet" coats of paint. My most recent '60 Imperial project has one coat each of Testors gray & white primer, followed by 4 more coats of Duplicolor white primer. Now.........put your hand to your ear & listen intently, because you will inevitably hear warnings of how "too many coats of primer, paint & clear will hide all of your detail". Lacquer paints lay down very thinly. You will be surprised at how many coats you will be able to use, even with a rattle can. You tell me how much detail is hidden on this paint job which consists of 6 primer coats, 3 color coats & 4 clear coats, all shot with spray cans. And, to top it off, the color is a can of Duplicolor touch-up paint from probably 25 years ago! Steve

I think it should definitely stay! It serves an essential function. I really don't want to read about someone's marital issues or trouble with the gout in the general section! Steve

That doesn't count either. If you bought it, it was obviously within your reach! Steve

Well, the paint didn't lay down "that" nicely. There are 4 coats of Duplicolor clear on top of it. But, it went pretty well. Steve

Got it about half done & I'm almost out of foil. Should be able to continue in a couple of days. More foil on order! Steve

It'll straighten it alright!.........into a flat plastic disk!! Steve