StevenGuthmiller

I'll agree with that. Steve

A much shorter and more salient argument than my long post. And to add to your point, subsequently printing or casting that file is not scratch building either, therefore, I'm going to say no, 3-D printing is not scratch building. Steve

I look at it from the perspective of resin casting. Casting a part in resin is not scratch building. Therefore, printing a part in resin shouldn't be considered scratch building either. The argument could be made that the "original" part that was made to be cast could be scratch made, but subsequent copies are just that......copies. My opinion would be that the original design for the printed part "might" be able to be considered scratch made, but try putting a CAD design on your model. Once the part is printed, it's a copy of the original design, and ceases to be a scratch made part. The basis for this theory came to me when I considered the interior that I made for my '68 Coronet. Elements of that interior were actually "scratch made", but I would not consider the subsequent resin cast parts offered by Ed Fluck Jr, (even the very first set to be cast), as scratch made. In the end, If I were judging a contest, I would give more consideration to a part that was created by hand, using "raw materials", than I would to a part created on a computer and printer. Another way to look at it would be, would a set of decals, even though created by the modeler, on a computer and printed, be on the same level as someone who "painted" the same design on their model? My opinion?........no. I think that we can all agree that it's possible to produce much better parts through 3-D printing than scratch building in many instances, but there still must be something to be said for the guy that sits down at his bench with an array of raw materials laid out before him, and somehow manages, through his own thought and dexterity, to produce something that didn't exist before. Maybe it's just my "old school" attitude, but I find that to much more impressive than making something through a computer program. Steve

I'm pretty sure he's talking about bleeding under the edges. Never heard of a circumstance where paint actually bled through the tape. The OP is pretty new to the hobby, and is not particularly familiar with all of the excepted nomenclature. Steve

So close now that I can taste it!!! Added the interior door lock buttons, exterior mirror and antenna a couple of days ago. Yesterday I polished the hood, and last night I painted the up-top and the hood insulation. This morning I added the rear window to the up-top and covered the hood insulation patch with embossing powder. I'm not certain, but I believe that all that I have left to do is dirty up the underside of the hood, and this one will be ready for the shelf! Steve

Shape looks close, although it would need a stretch the way it looks to fit the Impala. The C-pillar would need some work too. The C-pillar looks thinner, at the top especially, on the Caprice, and less slanted at the rear. Looks doable, but it would still require some considerable work. Steve

Blue painters tape is probably the worst tape for masking for modeling. It is designed to be a “low tack” tape to guard against pulling up paint or wall paper that it’s applied over. The simplest answer is Tamiya tape. It’s designed for just this application and I’ve never been disappointed with it’s performance. Steve

Yes. which is why I never paint parts on the sprue. I don’t want to sound holier than thou, but painting parts on the trees has always struck me as an amateur move. I don’t think I even did that back when I was 10 or 12 years old. Not only does it seem amateurish because of the touch up required at the cut points, but almost every part has mold lines that should be removed if you want your model to stand out. Steve

Who knows. Every state has their own goofy rules, and who can say what the rules were in 1964 (or '66) I always put both front and rear plates on my builds. Just adds a little more visual appeal. Steve

Depends on what you're doing with it, but I find that I can meet all of my gluing needs with just 2 glues. Plastruct "Plastic Weld" for bare plastic, and clear 2-part epoxy for everything else. On extremely rare occasions I'll use a little ZAP glue, (super glue) for a few little things, but in almost all cases, I can get by without it. Steve

Thanks Keith! Creeping up on the final details. Added the license plates, (Florida 1966) exterior door handles and locks, and the sun visors. Steve

Steve

Thanks fellas! Found a few minutes to get into the shop again today. Threw together an antenna, and slapped an inspection sticker on the windshield. May try to get the door handles and locks installed today, and begin polishing the hood if time allows. Steve

I agree. using white glue for mock-up sounds like a time consuming, tedious operation. I can’t imagine myself trying to test assemble an engine with it for example. Glue on the heads, wait 20 minutes. Glue on the intake and carb, wait another 20 minutes. And so on. Another great alternative for mock-up for bare plastic is one of the UV light setting glues, like Laser Bond, or Bondic. You can assemble an entire engine in minutes, and when it’s time to take it apart, just pull the parts apart and pick off any remaining glue with a finger nail. No waiting or scrubbing required. Steve

I also have a small single cylinder air brush compressor that I use for small jobs, but my point is that if you have any use at all for a compressor for other uses, there’s really no need for a hobby dedicated compressor. A small pancake compressor will do everything that a airbrush compressor will do, and then some. Just makes sense to me to buy one that will cover everything. Steve

My opinion? Get a "pancake" compressor. There's no need to spend money on a hobby dedicated compressor. Then you can spray your model in the morning, and fill a tire or operate an air nailer in the afternoon if necessary. With a pancake compressor, you can fill the tank in the garage or outside, and then bring it inside for hours of silent spraying. I have a DeWalt 6 gallon. Steve

Correct. All that it takes is one small “bleed under” to ruin the whole paint job. Never need to worry about things like that with foil. Steve

With some careful planning, you could probably foil that entire front end. I certainly wouldn’t be afraid to have a go at it. Steve

I've begun making sun visors for some of my projects as well, but using all styrene. I could have utilized wire for the pivot and made these functional, but being a convertible with a relatively fragile windshield frame, I decided that it would be better to do them n plastic and risk having the visors break, rather than risk the windshield frame breaking due to a mishap. These were done with a piece of plastic rod for the pivot side of the visor, thinner rod for the pivots themselves, and styrene sheet for the visor. They were then encircled with a bead of stretched sprue for the piping. Steve

In any case, this looks like a barge and tug boat situation, telling me that it was probably the movement of new Fords from plants in the northeast, possibly down the Mississippi, (or some other river) on their way to some southern port. Steve

They’re all a lot alike. Some just have more members than others making them more heavily traveled, which I suppose should translate into more information. I belong to a bunch of Facebook groups, some of which have very heavy traffic and a few that have very little. I feel like I should abandon some of the stale groups, but I feel guilty. Sometimes I fell as if I’m single handedly keeping them afloat! ? Steve

You think it’s hard for you? ? Steve

Permanently up on "all fours". Please disregard the absolute disaster in the background!! Steve

This morning I installed the headlight lenses, and hung the rear bumper. With any luck, I can get the rear seat, speaker grille, front wheels and E brake cable installed for the final time this afternoon. Steve

In this case, I cut the headlight nacelles from the Moebius '61 Ventura kit that I've used pretty heavily as a donor, and then shaped, filed and sanded them to fit the '64, leaving the chrome bucket intact. I approach every build a little differently depending on the circumstances. I would be extremely interested if some enterprising 3-D printer or resin caster were to begin offering reflectors and lenses for sale. It's one of those things that I always kind of grappled with. Steve