Snake45

Great pics, Ty, tells me exactly what I need to know. Next one of these I see is MINE! Thanks so much for posting the pics.

Nice work, Casey! I always do this, too, since I learned how much realism it adds, and my "weapon of choice" is exactly the same as yours (you described it perfectly).

DON'T do panel lines with a black Sharpie. It looks awful and there's the chance that it can leach into and stain the surrounding paint in years to come. There are MUCH better ways to do panel lines. Do you happen to have the Monogram/Revell kit of the 427 Cobra? I'd be interested in hearing if the body is the same size as the Welly. I've seen diecast Cobras before, but they always look big to me--much bigger than 1/24-1/25 should be. But yours looks so nice that I might have to get one if the size is right.

A model will never demand that you spend a long weekend taking it to visit the factory that built it. It also won't invite the factory managers to spend their two weeks summer vacation at YOUR house.

I use it all the time, for both temporary and semi-permanent joins. My favorite brand at the moment is Tacky Glue, but Elmer's works fine, too.

It might be fun to try to make a "late model street rod" out of one of these things. Big N little wheels/tires, some kind of a nosepiece with headlights, windshield, two seats..... Hey, I've seen crazier ideas actually done in 1:1.

Nice! I like the sit, the attitude, and the overall general vibe. Well done and model on!

No, but I've had plenty of them give ME headaches.

Very nice, looks great! I wish I could find a dark green one. I have two, one in a light, bright metallic green that's unlike anything I can find in any Ford paint chart of the era (in the ballpark with Chevy '72 Spring Green) and one in a dark blue metallic. The blue one is high on my list of get-to projects and shouldn't take too long once I actually get into it. I don't have that many Johnny Lightnings, but IMHO this is one of the better ones. Yours looks great!

Or run up my credit card, and then hid the bills and denied they did it.

Oh sure. Looking at my notes, I see I've finished six "new" kits this year (that is, never worked on by anyone other than me), though a couple of them were completions of long-time Shelf of Doom residents. But I like both the challenge and the (relative) speed of the glue bomb rescues, and it looks like I've done 11 of those so far this year. I've also done about 17 diecast pimpouts/detailings this year. I haven't yet posted all of these. I hope to, though, before we get too deep into all the "What A Glorious Year For MEEEE!" "year in review" posts.

What he said! Well done and model on!

These are diecasts?

I've never had a model ask me, "Should I wear THIS paint or THIS paint," and then, if I make a choice, go paint itself the other one.

I say, "I think perhaps you have mixed up 'cause' and 'effect.' "

AND the '66 Caprice top to boot!

Very cool! I have a painted glue bomb of one of these, complete with instructions and many, maybe most of the optional/custom parts, but missing the rear bumper. Fortunately I was able to get one from Modelhaus before they closed up. I need to dig that thing out and rebuild it someday.

Motion Performance offered them back in the day, set up for GM A-bodies (with brackets to be welded to the diff housing). Fairly good representations of these are in the AMT '72 Nova. Their cross-braces are too thick, but otherwise, they look just like the M-P ones. The ones in Badman are much longer, about twice the size. The ones in the AMT Nova are pretty close to the right size. I tried to google-image a set of the old ones and came up empty. Closest I found was these: https://www.carid.com/lakewood/ladder-bars.html Guess I'll have to find an ad for them in an old Hi Performance CARS magazine. Keep in mind that traction bars, back in the day, were often home-brewed and could be in a wide variety of shapes and materials, especially on gassers. So someone could have fabricated a set of Badman traction bars out of scrap steel, and someone, somewhere, probably did. Something else to keep in mind is that the NHRA rulebooks (from at least 1965 on, anyway) dictated that traction bars could be no longer than one-half the wheelbase.

Gotta love a model with a well-developed story line!

I had the same problem with an AMT '40 Ford coupe kit I've been working at for what seems like decades. I spent a LOT of time getting the hood to fit "right," with a proper panel line gap and so forth, and then I started looking at photos of real '40s and noticed that on many of them, the real hood doesn't fit a whole lot better!

That's weird. All I can see is my two posts about not being able to post. Yes, I had a long post about what's wrong with the MPC body. Interestingly, I have a 1/24 diecast '69 Firebird (Chinese-made, of course) that rather obviously was copied from the MPC body and sized up a scale point.

I wish I'd bought one of those at the time. Actually, I'm not sure I ever saw one in 1/25, though I did see it in 1/18 several places. I did manage to get the AG one in 1/25, and built it, and I like it very much.

I'm thinking a flathead wouldn't have classed as high as B. In fact, as early as 1965 (first year rulebook I have on hand), flatheads were already segregated down to H/Gas. Also, I'm thinking it's probably closer to red than pink. It looks pretty close to the flags in the background, which are no doubt red. Maybe it's a "light red" or a dark pink. BTW, pink is a deceptively difficult color to mix/match for some reason. Some years ago I built a model of a Playmate of the Year car. Thought it would be easy/simple; it wasn't. Mixed up paints and painted and stripped it twice before I got a color I could live with the third time, and it's still not exactly the right shade but I'm not doing it over. Just sayin'.... Good luck with this. It looks like a fun project! Drive on!

Good to know, thanks! So it looks like I can do that promo interior in black, which should look sharp with the silver and gray paint.

Very nice work! I like where you're going with it, although I prefer the original wheels and tires.