Snake45

Yeah, I'd say it would be worth AT LEAST $50 as-is, and I can see it topping three figures. In other words, leave it alone!

That's the general rule, but this case could be an exception. It's very possible that the aluminum paint will cover the red well enough that you can paint the red first, if you prefer (I.e., if it would be easier to mask that way). Sounds like a good time to do a spoon test. Paint one plastic spoon with your red, another with your aluminum. Then mask half of each off and lay on the other color. Did one order work better than the other?

The tops of the front fenders and the front panel are misshapen and bulbous, sort of "inflated" looking. I built one of these and I had several hours in filing and sanding a more correct shape out of what's provided. Strangely, they seem to have corrected the problem in the '67 Coupe kit, and the '63 snappers don't have it, either. Those all look good. If I ever want to build another Revell '67 roadster, I'll start with the coupe kit and cut off the top and graft in the deck from a roadster. That would be much less work than what I went through on the one I did. But hey, if you don't see it, and the roadster body looks good to you, build it and be happy. We only have to please ourselves in this hobby.

Outstanding rundown, but you left out the AMT '67. I'm pretty sure these molds became the MPC '68 (and subsequent), but I don't know which company tooled them originally, nor how/why the manufacturer switch occurred.

Yeah, kinda. That's why I'm gonna do mine as a fake kit car.

I was going to suggest filling the divot with Loctite Superglue Gel and then filing/sanding to shape, but that would work, too. Probably even better. R2 owes you a good body, if you want to contact them and wait for it. But this little divot is VERY fixable.

Yup!

And the '67 Camaro. And the '69 Nova. And the '70 Cuda. And the '67 Corvette roadster. And the '69 Mustang. And.....

If you're going for a factory look, a little orange peel is actually desirable. Better a little orange peel than burning through and having to strip and repaint!

I recently acquired a near-complete Palmer '66 Vette (missing the windshield frame, but everything else necessary seems to be there). It seems to be 1/25 but almost a cartoonish caricature of the real car. I'm going to slim the body a bit top-to-bottom (easy enough, because the body's in five pieces) and then build it as if it's fiberglass kit car knock-off lookalike. It'll be fun and look a hoot on the shelf with my "real" AMT, MPC and Revell Vettes.

As promised, here's the pics of the new Supernatural '67 Impala in 1/24. IMHO the thing looks pretty darn good except something is very whack about the roof. Either it's too tall in the front and/or too short in the back, or the side window upper line is cut to give that impression, or some combination of all three. I'm going to see if that can be fixed, as otherwise, it's quite a nice model. You can google-image to see pics of what the roof/window line SHOULD look like. Lotta pics of this (real) car on the net. Your own comments/impressions/suggestions/observations/ideas welcomed. BTW, I've never seen the TV show so I'm not a fanboy, but I DO like '67 Impalas.

The real car was supposedly a Barracuda, but I think the F500 kit was made from the tooling for the Valiant. As I understand it, the Valiant was only done as a promo in '66 (and they're pretty rare), but I believe that previous years were done as full kits. Somewhere in my swaps I picked up the grille assembly for a '65 Valiant (or maybe it's a '64, I dunno). Just to use it, I'm gonna put it on a Fireball 500 body and make a phantom Plymouth factory show car of some kind.

I guess that depends on how bad you want it that way, and how skilled a modeler you are. I wouldn't think it would take a huge amount of work. I want to try to convert it to the military version. Or at least something that looks sorta kinda like the military version. Those things are just hella cool!

Very, very nice, and really captures the feel of the era. I like how you painted the front wheel spokes gray. No, it's not as nice as PE wire wheels, but it's a 100% improvement over just leaving them chrome as they come out of the box.

Very, very nice indeed! I just happened to see a restored stock Bantam coupe last weekend. Was amazed at how small it really was!

Very nice. You gotta love these old-school retro crocks!

Very, very nice work here.

Mine finally got some new stuff in. Both Torinos, '83 Camaro, Revell '68 VW, and I forget what-all else. I spent my coupon on the Revell '57 Chev 150 Black Widow. Never got one first time around.

I went back and looked at that thread. I can't quite figure out what's going on. Is the (white) top from the 2nd-gen AAR Cuda? I can't understand why one would do that, as the top on the Monogram '71 body is fine and even IMHO better than the top on the AAR. I really need to dig my 71-70 conversion out again and finish it. I just can't decide if I want to do it as a Hemi or an AAR. I kinda want a Hemi, but I'd have to come up with some way to do those goofy "louvred" rocker panels.

It won't get away from me again!

No, but you can cobble one together from the horrible AAR kit and the old Monogram '71.

Maybe it's time for you to discover the joys of the Silver Sharpie.

I'll try to get some pics up this weekend, but I can't promise. Now that I've seen it in person, I can see the problem in the photos above. The roof APPEARS to slope down from front to rear. It looks like it's either too tall at the front, or too short at the rear. But this MIGHT be an optical illusion caused by the top line of the side windows, which clearly slopes down where it shouldn't. It might be possible to correct this by filing that line back to a more correct shape--or at least improve the look a great deal. The problem with that sort of work of course is that you then have to come up with some way to replace the drip rail. Well, at least it's black, which means touchup should be easy to blend in, unlike many other colors. If the thing were a plastic body, I'd convert it to a Bel Air/Biscayne 2-door sedan, but I don't think I have the skillset to do that in metal. I certainly don't have the PATIENCE to do it.

The third one (after a little research) turn out to be a '95 with LAST ZR1 on the license plate. The '98 and '99 turn out to be molded in metallic colors, which is good--I can polish them. (Was worried that they were paint and I wouldn't be able to polish, only clean.) The metallic red one is missing its top section, but that's okay--what do you expect for $3? Still a bargain. (I paid $3, $3, and $5 for them--$11 total for all three.)

That should work. X-Acto blade steel should be harder than whatever alloy diecasts are made of, so it should work. It's likely to take forever, though. Though I routinely rescribe kit bodies, I've never tried it on a diecast, so I really have no idea how much work might be involved. I'm guessing probably a LOT.