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Snake45

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Everything posted by Snake45

  1. For a car modeler, unless you want to do murals or VERY fancy custom paint or very sophisticated weathering, I don't think you can go wrong with a basic Badger 350 or Paasche H. Keep in mind that a GOOD air source is AT LEAST as important as the airbrush itself. You can get set up quite nicely with both for $150 or less.
  2. Wow, much nicer than I was expecting when I clicked. Great color--what's the paint?
  3. Love the car. Love the build quality. Love the color. Hate the big goofy wheels. Oh well, they're better than tiny lowrider wires, and three out of four ain't bad. Drive on!
  4. Yah, it was probably almost certainly the alcohol that did it. Alcohol is an ingredient in those "hot" setting solutions like the old Solvaset. I've never had any problems using Future over (fully dried) decals. A friend in Model Airplane World uses Future AS his "decal set." He brushes some future on the area where the decal goes, and then applies the decal into the wet Future. As the Future dries, it sucks the decal down into all the detail. I tried it once, and it didn't work as well for me as he claims it does for him, but it might have been the type of decal I was using (an old kit decal, as I recall).
  5. I remember you posting that, and asked about it. She said my retinas were fine. She also said I was at the extreme upper range of "normal" for the glaucoma test, test too. Something to keep an eye one, no pun intended. Apparently I have no symptoms of macular degeneration. Oh yeah, I asked all the questions, and really got my (insurance company's) money's worth! BTW, I ended up going with progressive glasses this time. Only took a couple days to get used to them for "everyday" use, but I would NEVER do any model or drawing work with them due to the weird shape distortions.
  6. Only real problem with that kit IMHO is that it's never come with the hard top.
  7. Same reason they named one "It won't go" in Spanish, I guess. Nowadays you can buy a car called the KIA. I ain't having it.
  8. I had an eye exam in June. She told me I was just beginning to have cataracts, but not bad enough to fix yet, so I guess that's in my future. No doubt after my job goes away next year and I lose my health insurance. My presbyopia is getting worse and I can't focus on anything close up anymore. Glasses get me through the day and almost all my modeling has been done with Optivisor for several years now. I love the thing, though it did take some getting used to. My biggest problem is I have an enormous "floater" in my right eye that every so often makes it look like I'm trying to see through frosted glass. The doc said she could actually SEE the thing, but apparently there's nothing they can do about it. I'd think they could laser those things out, or something, by now, but evidently not.
  9. Dunno if TMR still sells "separately," but he does sell on eBay. I bought a couple things that way not long ago. Good prices, good quality, very fast shipment--I'd buy from him again. For a '69 Chevelle conversion, the big thing you need is not the body, but the grille and taillights/rear bumper. (And the interior, if you're anal about interiors, which I'm not.) The common AMT '69 body makes a great starting point, and it even still has the correct-for-'68 chrome strip running down the lower body sides.
  10. Oh that is very, VERY nice! Good to see one not in R-W-B. In fact, you built this almost exactly as I would, if I ever run across one of these cheap (or at least affordable), right down to the color. Well done and model on!
  11. I never noticed that! I drove a '76 or '77 Omega with the 305 Chevy engine for a number of years. It would really scoot! It was probably my 3rd or 4th or 5th favorite (personally-owned) car of all time. I'd happily buy another one of these cars if the price were right and it were it decent shape to start with. Alas, there aren't too many of them around anymore.
  12. I seem to recall magazine articles of the day mentioning 2" steel tubing being used for roll bars, tube (funnycar) frames, and so forth. Two inches in 1/25 is .080. Common 5/64" materials look a bit too small, and 3/32" looks a bit too big. But Evergreen makes lovely .080" styrene rod which is absolutely perfect for all sorts of 1/25 projects. It's definitely worth going to some trouble to get.
  13. None of the LEGAL A/FX cars was blown, of course, but there were a number of '65 match race funnies that ran blowers.
  14. Sometimes I think no model of mine is really done until it's been stripped and repainted at least once.
  15. I have an original '67 AMT body, with all body parts. I built it as a funny car back in the day, putting it on a HUG chassis. All the other parts of it got lost over the years, and somehow the body got broken around the A-pillars and vent window frames. I think I'm going to repair it as well as I can and restore it as a "survivor." Last year I scored a moderately "distressed" red '68 promo. Gonna try to restore that one, too. The right A-pillar is broken and might not be repairable, but I have at least one reissue body with a packaging-deformed roof that might make a good A-pillar donor. That might make a good project for this winter, maybe.
  16. I'd be interested in those, too.
  17. Shiny!
  18. I wish I'd thought of that. Oh, wait--I did. I saw the Revell '68 VW back on the shelf at Hobby Lobby last weekend, but there was something I happened to want more. I'll try to pick one up this Saturday, for my long-contemplated, occasionally-discussed "kit car" based on the inaccurate AMT '68 Corvette body.
  19. The one near me hasn't had models in many, many years. They do have a few halfway decent diecasts, but that's about it.
  20. No, but I don't doubt that it's 1/24. It's pretty big--almost certainly my biggest diecast.
  21. Very, very nice indeed! I've built two of these, and two of the coupes, and have yet to paint any of them--just polished the plastic. Yours came out great!
  22. Ah, I get it now. Sort of. That airplane's paint job is actually sort of a mash-up of two or three or four real WWII Mustangs, with some liberties taken on top of that. So it kind of has the "flavor," but it's not authentic. BTW, if you'd like to put those big red bombs on your model, I can send you decals. They say DETROIT MISS, not NEVER MISS. I have several sets, as they were the kit decals in the Monogram 1/48 kit for years.
  23. Shiny!
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