Snake45

I do most of my stuff "curbside" these days, even if it's a full-detail kit. I'd rather put my time and efforts into bodywork and paint than in engine and chassis detailing.

I believe the AMT '67-'68 Z/28 Camaros have plain valve covers like that.

You'll need something for close-up. I recently went from bifocals to progressives. They took a few days to get used to but now I could hardly be happier with them. I can see everything from very close up to very far away just by moving my head a little. After a couple days it becomes so automatic you don't even realize you're doing it.

Ah, but that's a JoHan box and my kit is AMT. (Same plastic, I know.) Good lookin' out, though.

I bought three or four of those (the WC-53 version, IIRC) at close-out prices back in the late '70s. About 20 years ago I ran into a guy who wanted one BAD, and had been looking for one for a LONG time. All he had to trade was "an old Mustang" that turned out to be a mint, unbuilt, new in box AMT Sonny and Cher Mustang. We both walked away from the swap very, VERY happy.....

It might be worth major bucks if someone hadn't used the box as a paint stand for something. The entire main box art is now gloss white enamel. The sides and ends are pretty much intact, though.

Believe it or not, I have one. Unbuilt. Picked it up in a deal about a decade ago. Until it was in my hands, I never knew AMT did a Donohue Javelin. I thought that was a JoHan deal. No, it's not for sale or trade.

Do you have some particular 350 year or application in mind? If so, perhaps we can be more specific. Generically, when I think of nice small block Chevies, my first thoughts are of the Revell '69 Z/28 and the AMT '70-'72 Corvettes. The one in the AMT '66 Nova isn't half bad, either.

That's a weird door hinge, but looks pretty good otherwise. Not a deal-breaker--I leave the doors closed anyway.

I can confirm this. Every issue from the Hot Rod issue on (at least) is usable only as a source of parts to restore an earlier one.

I took a good look at it today and see what you mean on some points. The grille shape isn't quite right but I'm not sure it's right for a '72 either. I don't see the difference in the side stripes. Didn't look at the back stripes. I did notice that it doesn't seem to have the turn signals under the front bumpers that it should. I might be able to add those with paint. Thanks for your comments/observations. I appreciate it!

Try rubbing alcohol on that black sharpie on your windows first. It will take many/most Sharpie colors off, including their silver.

Why cut the decal if you want the emblem? With setting solutions, you can snuggle it right down over the emblem and then paint or Molotow-pen it. While I got you on the phone, you seem to be pretty sharp on '71-'73 Stangs. I'm not. I recently bought a (already built) Testor 1/24 diecast '71 Mach 1, black with silver (argent?) trim. The thing looks pretty accurate to me. I laid some Snake-Fu on the grille, rear panel, lights, wheels, and so forth, and the thing now looks pretty darn good. Certainly good enough to fill that slot on my shelf. Are you familiar with this diecast? Anything in particular wrong with it that I should be concerned with? Thanks!

I recently got some of that stuff and used it with superglue to make a no-paint, "invisible" filler on black plastic. It worked great! I shot pictures but haven't had the time to write up a tutorial yet.

I'll sometimes paint the rear of the chassis flat aluminum or steel, then mask off the gas tank, then mask it off and paint the rest of the chassis matte black, or primer, or whatever. For exhaust, I usually hand-brush with Testor Steel, but I've been known to use a Silver Sharpie on them, too. But usually the brushed Testor Steel. These might not be the VERY best ways to do things, but as I usually display my models right-side-up, I don't really care.

I'm not sure what advantage you're going for mixing flat red and clear. Why not use gloss paint to start with? Or, if you're using a flat color you can't get in clear, why not just lay down the flat, then clear-coat over top of it? 16 PSI sounds a little light to me, but then I haven't sprayed much if any Tamiya acrylic. I generally spray at somewhere in the 22-28 PSI range, or so, but have turned it up over 30 at times if need be. I crank the pressure to 40 to blow cleaner through the airbrush at the end of a paint session, but have never sprayed paint that high.

What's not to like about the AMT Manx? Nicely built.

I was expecting to see a Fiesler Storch.

They have it. That's what the Nickey is. Well, you might have to swap on the stock hood and do a little other minor kitbashing, but it can be done. I'd much rather see them FIX the front and rear ends of that Camaro before they issue any more variants of it.

I like this a LOT! I've wanted to do a Jeep Rod for a couple decades now, but wasn't sure quite how to pull it off. You've given me several good ideas! The only way yours could be better is if you had painted it Pontiac Verdoro Green, which I've always thought of as "Metallic Olive Drab." Very well done, and model on!

Is that Deuce 5-window an original-issue MPC Switcher? (I think most reissues have chopped tops.)

Bears. Beets. Battlestar Galactica!

They have it in my Sunday paper most weeks, but they seldom have anything making it worthwhile.

The '65 and '66 Bonnevilles were basically the same car. If you want a '65 wagon, buy the '66 wagon body and graft its top onto a common reissue '65 Bonneville. Sounds very do-able (but then again, I'm not the guy who wants to do it).

I just got the new issue of Hot Rod in the mail Friday or Saturday, and the article on it is in there. Should hit Walmart in a week or two.