peteski

Thanks Roger!

Can anybody confirm whether the MPC Ford Van came with the smaller Desert Dogs? I'm about to make trade - want to make sure those are the tires I want.

Don't forget that the decanted paint will be degassing for some time. If you were to tighten the lid, the pressure will build up and next time you open it, the pain might foam up and come out of the bottle making a huge mess. I usually leave the lid not tightened for a day or two, and keep gently swirling the jar from time to time to the liquid propellant to evaporate from the paint.

Great news, but I might still build mine as RHD model. I love the new mastering techniques: 3D CAD design. This makes the resin parts (assuming the are cast well) as good and precise as injection molded parts.

Looks like I misunderstood your post Jouko (I thought the photo of the Japanese bike wheel was the BMW). Sorry! I see that you are correct - it will be a tedious modification. But it will make the model look very realistic.

I see what you are doing. Why can't you drill the holes in the hub the same way they are on the 1:1 bike (perpendicular to the hub's face)? Tat would be much easier then drilling diagonal angled holes in the hub. Then bend one end of each spoke 90 degrees like 1:1 spokes, then install them in the holes and use some CA glue to hold it in place?

That looks like a nice kit! I agree that changing the spokes will make a big difference in realism. It also looks like changing spokes on this model, the way the wheels are split up should make it fairly easy.

Yes, if you dig deeper into it then all you've mentioned is odd. But on a first glance, the wooden props struck me as odd.

Assuming that you use RTV silicone for the mould material, read its specs sheets and instructions on its use. The cure of some RTV silicones (there are platinum-cure or tin-cure materials) can be inhibited by some materials. Make sure that all the materials in the master are compatible with the RTV rubber. Hopefully the entire master is covered with primer. Otherwise, the areas of milliput might have slightly different texture from the primed metal. If the master has a coat of primer and you are also using mould release agent (which often is not needed with silicone RTV), then I believe you should be all set. Again, read all the documentation provided with the RTV silicone.

Greg, the mold material will pick up the surface finish of your master, and the resin cast parts will look exactly like the master. It will even pick up fingerprints. If you want your cast parts to have primer-like finish, then yes, it is good enough. If you want your cast part to have gloss finish, then make the master glossy. What is the master made of? If it is porous, make sure the use enough coats of primer or other sealer to prevent the mold material from soaking into the master.

Because I prefer the durability and the "real chrome-like" shine of vacuum metalizing. I do use silver/chrome paint markers (like Molotow) to touch up the sprue gate blemish on the chromy parts.

Congratukations! Nice to know it was someone on this forum. I owned a '77 T-bird back in the late '80s. It was mom's car, but I bought it when she got a good deal on an Olds Cutlass Supreme from mid '80s. The T-bird was cream with brown roof and rocker panels, and brown interior. It was heck of a smooth ride (last of the large cars I dove). So to me this model also has personal connection, and I like its unusual "basket handle) look with the small window. It was a handsome car.

I have only done the heat-bluing process on motorcycle models. Here is one of them (1:12 scale HD Springer). I think that even on that one it is slightly overdone (by me).

A little artistic license is allowed. Just take a look at all those figure painter models who seem to exaggerate shadows and highlights on their figures.

That is a weird, but very interesting looking aircraft. Beautifully done! To me it seems unusual to see wooden-blade props on this type of airplane.

If you were to look around, there are several threads on this subjects. Here's one I just posted in yesterday.

LOL! The number of the beast! Thanks! They look useful for one of my future projects.

Is that jig available for sale somewhere (Shapeways?). Honestly, I don't see how a single jig can be universal. There are many different offsets and rim and hub thicknesses. Also different numbers of spokes. Seems that a different jig would have to be made for each different wheel.

I also airbrush light feathered coats of Tamiya clear paints. Blue and even some red as a second coat in certain areas. Blue and red results in puple color. I guess clear orange woudl add even more realism.

Interesting. What is the inner diameter of the smaller Desert Dog tires?

I'm glad it is now confirmed, but still sad to see her go. Time marches on - none of us are getting any younger.

I get those "PayPal" emails from time to time. Actually your screen shot shows another important clue.It shows the cursor hovering over the supposed PayPal email address, and the little popup window shows a bogus email address ending in 2la.com. That is a clear indication of a Phishing email. If you were to hover your mouse over the Login button, it would likely also have shown you that the button directs you to a non-PayPal address. Browsers have features like that built-in to help you in spotting spoofs and scams. Also, there is no need to actually buy something to verify your PayPal account (although that is a good excuse to do it). Simply login into your PayPal account by going to paypal.com directly in your browser (not by clicking any email links). If there was a problem, you would have been notified after you logged in.

So how does this work when the seller still accepts PayPal? Does PayPal sent the payment for an auction to that eBay Managed Payment account, then to seller's bank? Or when seller still accepts PayPal, the payment is then totally handled by PayPal?

That is correct.

Have you ever seen the movie "Office Space"?