peteski

Same thing was happening to me (forum was inaccessible for about an hour) when I was experimenting with my problematic paragraph earlier. I was wondering if I was actually crashing the forum website, or was it only me. But I didn't see anybody complain about the outages, so I assume it was only me. I wonder if the forum simply blocks, for an hour, the IP address which is making it "sick". I verified that your paragraph (properly assembled) causes a 404 error for me too. I also shortened the paragraph and got another error I was seeing in my own earlier test. The following text (shown in red), when I click "Submit Reply", will cause a popup window to show up stating that the post no longer can be edited and hangs: I've never seen a bench seat in a 356 as in the interior shot of the blue roadster. I need to research that. It probably gets its "outlaw" moniker due to the mild visual departures from stock. Make sure to preface it with: Beautiful selection of cars there. There sure are some bugs in the forum's software!

Testing post - can be deleted.

Computers make this easy. Just go to your profile and see your activity, then go to the very end. Here is your first post (and thread). How's that for a trip down the memory lane?

Do an experiment: Start dividing the suspect text by half each time. So only post half of the text. If it posts ok, edit that post and just paste the other half. Keep editing your post (same post over and over) until you get to the specific area of text which causes the error. With 5 lines, this shouldn't take long. That is how I figured out what word in the text I was posting messed up the forum. That way we will have another reproducible test case for the admins.

It would take much more than 110 degrees F to do this kind of damage. Probably more like 200 degrees! It almost looks like there was a jet or column of hotter air around the front of the body (as the rear doesn't appear to be warped much). I guess not all food dehydrators are equal.

I'll see if I can post a photo of them - I have to dig them out first (long stalled project).

If I was to make a guess, it is because Tamiya is curbside (no engine) and Revell has full engine detail. But I do like the overall look of the Tamiya model better. I think they captured the shape of the car better than Revell.

That's true, the setting solution (one that smells like alcohol) can affect some paints. It would make sense to apply the decals before clear coat.

Looks good! I build the K74 kit some years ago - it was part fun, and part frustration. Using real screws for detailing the engine is a good idea, but you used Philips-head screws. I'm not sure that Mercedes used Philips-head screws back in 1934. I think they were all slotted-head screws back then.

And they were molded in multiple colors (a fact they touted on the box). I also liked that clear window in the bottom of the box showing those multi-colored parts trees. And then of course there were those clear display stands with the M-shaped base and a ball-joint, so the model could be positioned any way you wanted it. I build a bunch of WWII airplane kits from Matchbox as a teen, and this thread has brought back some fond memories.

I did.

That is some fancy spray can! I wonder if the results we see is the hardener not properly mixing with the paint as it leaves the nozzle? Too fancy for me.

Glad that I was able to shed some light on this.

I also have very inexpensive basic dehydrator (shown here). It has a 40W element on the bottom and no temperature control. There are adjustable shutters on the bottom and in the lid. I have the shutters adjusted to give me a temperature range 100-110 deg. F. I have an inexpensive meat thermometer stuck through one of the holes in the lid to indicate the temperature inside. In the 30 or so years I have been using it, I have never damaged or warped any items I dry in it.

I watch the reruns on MeTV and yes, all the ladies are hot! And speaking of the Invaders, I was channel surfing over the weekend (and nigth) and the premiere episode was being shown on MeTV. Looks like they will be showing the series.

I like what I see here! My GF owned the M-Edition, Merlot Mica paint, BBS RG wheels and leather interior. That was shortly before I met her. She had photos and I promised her that I would build her a model (using the Tamiya kit). I got the correct paint for it, right wheels from Aoshima, and started some assemblies. I even designed and photoetched all the badges and emblems for it (including a metal peace symbol she had hanging off the rear view mirror. That was about 20 years ago and the model is still in pieces! One of these days I'll finish it . . . I'm so bad!

Yes, I also liked their offbeat rear end styling, and the nose looked pretty sharp too.

Another idea would be to wrap some 2-part epoxy putty (like Milliput or Tamiya) around the shifter shaft, then sculpt it into a boot shape. Then of course paint it semigloss black.

I have used Floqil Barrier (made for the same purpose) for decades, when it was still available. It was basically another alcohol based shellac-type product similar to BIN. I still have few bottles of it (I stocked up when RPM discontinued Floquil paints.

Easy one!

Sure, we all like shortcuts. But the person who originally posted the question doesn't give any details, and they now have couple dozen of different answers. If they wanted a quick answer, they should have told us what material is the body and what paints were used. Then someone could likely provide an good answer based on their specific hands-on experience. Right now we are just shooting in the dark (basically providing the same barrage of various methods which is already in that stripping thread).

A word of caution. I have seen instances of latex gloves literally melt after few years of being exposed to air (as in taken out of their sealed protective packaging). Latex does not have a long life exposed to air (oxygen). Bu that was standard light colored latex. I never worked with the black stuff.

As pointed out really early in this thread, there is a very long thread about what to use to strip paint of models. Worth reading (or at least skimming over that lengthy thread). The other thing is that there are so many opinions about what works best because there are many different brands and types of paint. There is no single best universal stripper: there are combinations of strippers and paints which work very well, marginally, or not at all. So, there is no single answer - it depends on the paint and the stripper. What we have here is rehashing info in that strippers thread mentioned earlier in this thread.

I usually use thinners which are specifically made for the paint. But for cleaning airbrush I use cheap generic lacquer thinner, but for as little thinner as is needed for thinning the paint for airbrushing, the branded thinner is not *THAT* much of an expense. If you don't want to use Humbrol brand thinner, Testors enamel or Model Master thinner will work (mineral spirits based). Even mineral spirits from the hardware store should work on Humbrol. But always test a new combination of paint/thinner on a scrap piece of the model or on a disposable spoon (made from Polystyrene).

What they said about Ultra Bright - skip it. It is likely just very thin and stiff aluminum foil. The Original and "new" Chrome is not an aluminum foil (you notice that it has a slightly warm yellowish tone, not bluish like aluminum). It is some sort of special alloy which is much softer and pliable/stretchable than Al. foil. That is why it works so well. Easy way to prove it is that you can melt that foil with a soldering iron, where Al. foil will not melt (has a higher melting temperature).