peteski

Looks like you are in good hands, and that old PC will brought back to life again! I am my own "computer guy", and still have a PC running Windows 98SE (to run my Alps printer). It is probably the same age as yours (and yes, I replaced parts in it - even had to replace bunch of toasted electrolytic capacitors on the motherboard). Your "power unit" also gave me a chuckle. It sounded like some part in a spaceship (something that might be said in a Star Trek or Star Wars movie). Seems like you are describing a power supply.

Same problem exists on model railroad forums. Maybe we need to start using different terminology? Instead of model cars we need to use "automotive scale replicas"! ?

But these metal decals do have clear carrier film (just like regular decals do).

Bill, this is the same problem you (and me, and others) posted about on the first page of this thread. The problem is that certain combinations of words anywhere in the text of the post you are composing get misidentified as a malicious request to the forum's database, and it results in the 404 (page not found) error. If you keep on trying, the forum locks you out for few hours (probably based on your IP address). To quote Dave Ambrose from an earlier post: I'll be working on this in a couple of weeks. There is a filter in our web server that is supposed to filter out malicious requests. Welcome to the post modern Internet. It doesn't work nearly as well as we'd like with this forum software, but I can't just disable them without getting the main MCM site attacked. We've been there, done that, and no thank you very much. So, it appears that we are unfortunately are stuck with this until hopefully someone comes up with a fix or workaround. Dave said that he is workign with the forum's vendor to hopefully come up with a workable solution. More info about the problem (and couple of specific words which activate the filter and cause the 404 error:

Thanks for confirming what I suspected. As for the headlight trim, I guess you will let us all know how it worked. You'll be the first to try.

Thanks Bruce - living on the right coast (New England) I have never heard that. Another mystery solved.

I have that kit (unassembled). I was surprised not to find instructions on how to apply metal stickers (just decal instructions). I examined the metal sticker sheets carefully and they appear to be decals too. Even the numbers on the sheet have clear film under them. That is likely why there are no separate instructions for the metal stickers. So, I would say that you should cut out the metal sticker you want to apply, place it in water, just like regular decals. When it is ready, slide the metal sticker onto the model. If you are worried, do a test application using one of the numbers in a circle. But I'm pretty sure that these are waterslide metal stickers. This is the first time I have encounter those.

That relates to model cars?

You bet! As for the yellowed resin, was it stored near some other item which could have affected the resin that way?

I was going to ask the same question and I found this thread . . . with no answer! Anybody? What is "pau"?

Crystals forming in FUD resin (or whatever they are calling it now) is not uncommon. Was discussed at length on Shapeways forum. https://www.shapeways.com/forum/t/fine-detail-plastic-crystallization-formation.68722/ Yellowing is new to me.

I'm glad to hear that you are happy with the service. While it is good that he mounts single parts himself (it works well for some modelers), I really need a plating service where I can send in my own parts rack (like ChromeTech USA offered). I don't just send out onsies and twosies. I have bunch of parts to be plated, many are very small and chances are that they would get lost if ai sent them individually. I also apply liquid mask to the mounting areas of the parts, so after plating I can easily remove the plating, exposing bare plastic where I will apply glue. Again, that is something that George will not do. Here is an example of a rack of parts which I assembled and sent out to be plated (in the photo some parts were already removed). You can see why I really need to mount my own parts.

Because it is fun , and it keeps my otherwise idle hands occupied. It all started when I was very young . . .

You mean CA accelerator fluid? Yes, I have seen some brands of accelerator result in more brittle joints than others. My favorite is Bob Smith Industries (BSI) accelerator. It is fairly mild-acting, low-odor, and will not attack polystyrene (many other brands are acetone-based and do). BTW, CA-type adhesives harden by a chemical reaction - they do not "dry". In my experience, the thinner consistency the CA glue is, the faster it will set using accelerator, and the more brittle it will become. The thicker CA glue is less brittle when its setting is accelerated. But I have not find the brittleness to be a problem in my modeling experience. Also, I think this question would have been better fit asked in one of the General sections. It is definitely on-topic for this forum, and modeling related.

Sounds like you have to burnish it very gently. Paint usually comes of the metal foil rather easily.

Not too long ago (well, probably over a year now) moderators decided to lock down editing after 3 days (or similar short time period). In the past you could edit your old threads, but not anymore.

PM sent.

Those wheels look great, but the kit's tires are still pieces of you know what.

When I need to keep parts aligned, yet separate them for painting or complex assemblies, I pin them. If feasible, I put the parts together then drill through both assembled parts. For pins I use 0.020" brass rod (or sometimes thinner). I glue a length of the rod into the hole in one of the parts. That allows for precise reassembly when I come to that task. Magnets are a clever idea, but since I mostly work in 1:24 or 1:43 scales, the magnets would be too large to be used for alignment of most engine parts. But they woudl work for aligning and holding car bodies. to the chassis or frame.

Wow! That is a blast from the past for me. I'm not into rally cars, but I worked at Computervision for over 10 years in 1980s and early '90s. I seem to recall that they also sponsored some Penske race cars.

The Italeri kit is on my to-do list. I also have the Tamiya kit mentioned as an engine donor. I bought both several years ago. But the Tamiya kit is so nice that I might have to buy another one, just to build it. There are several things that bug me about the Italeri kit (going from memory, as I haven't looked at if for few years). -- Windshield and frame are single clear piece, with very thick "glass". I was thinking of using it for a vacu-forming buck, then cutting the "glass" out, "chroming" the remaining frame, and then gluing in the thinner vacu-formed "glass". -- To make operational trunk lid hinges I bought some Sakatsu cast metal hinges - those should work nicely. Unfortunately those hinges are out of production and hard to find. -- Wheels and tires (especially the tires) are very poorly done (and wrong size?). I have found an inexpensive die-cast hardtop version of this car with really nice wheels and tires. -- There is something odd about the nose/grille area (don't remember specifics). -- The interior also needs some work to make this into a decent model (don't remember specifics)..

I have done that years ago (when I was younger and crazier) on a Monogram Ultimates '67 Corvette, in 1:43 scale. Yes, 1:43. Then I Bare-Metal-Foiled the door handles.

Rob, I keep meaning to contact you to let you know that some of the decal makers info is out of date (unless you updated it recently). I looked through the USA section.

Oh man, you're messing things up over here! Shouldn't you have posted this in the "What pleased you today" thread? ?

You can check anybody's profile here. According to Greg's profile, he last visited here just couple of days ago, Saturday Sept. 21st. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/profile/8648-greg-wann/