peteski

Yes, I still have is in a display case in a 2nd bedroom. When I built it, I was not very experienced. It is pretty much box stock. I look at it now and I would do many things differently. But I did send out many of the nickel-plated metal parts to be chrome plated. It is possible that back then metal parts on real cars were nickel plated, but to me nickel looked too dull. Hot (but not boiling - you should be able to put your hand in it without burning) will not damage those tires. I sprayed the whitewalls using paint for vinyl, so it adhered to the tire well, and it did not flake off when flexed. And if I remember correctly, when I was installing he tires I was stretching the back (unpainted) side over the wheel.

Marcin, While some of the laws in U.S. seem to be a bit strange, silly, or restrictive, it is not all that bad. There are no fines for possession of Kinder Eggs. Because of the choking-hazard law, the European Kinder Eggs are not sold in grocery stores, but they do sell a similar egg (Kinder Joy) with the candy and toy, but packaged differently inside the wrapper. And of course if you go to one of the ethnic stores (that carry for example Polish products) you can legally buy the Kinder Eggs you are used to seeing. I bought one of each and took a photo to prove to you that USA is still a free country where you can enjoy chocolate candy with toys inside. And as usual, you presented a very nice grotesque model!

Normal uploader works for me (as you can see above). My browser is: User agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; WOW64; rv:52.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/52.0 SeaMonkey/2.49.4

No photos show up Bruce - just a URL link. But I'm pretty sure that in order for a photo to show up the link needs to point to a picture (like JPG or PNG, or GIF). Your link does not. end in any of those extensions.

Here you go Jim: This was the car my GF used to own (unfortunately, before I met her). I will model it using the Tamiya kit with Aoshima BBS RG wheels. The are a bit large, but I think they will look ok. These are the photoetched emblems I designed and etched. The 1:24 scale ones are on the right. I also etched some 1:18 and 1:10 scale emblems for a guy who helped me out finding the wheels. This was back in 1997 - like I said, this is one of my longest in-progress (if I can call it "in-progress") projects. My GF is still waiting for her model . . . Log time relationship. Here are some emblems removed from the fret, polished and painted.

Yes, those vinyl tires are not very flexible. On my model I put them in hot water to soften them, then I was able to install them on the wheels. Interesting how you handled the whitewall - most tires from that time period had wide whitewalls. On my model I also had to assemble the metal spokes and nipples. Yours has molded-plastic spokes. Makes the assembly a lot easier. Here is a scan of a photo of my model (I built it over 30 years ago, before digital cameras existed). I hope you don't mind.

Unfortunately you are correct on all counts.

It will not - it is a side-offer between you and the seller (but through eBay, and legit). Like it was mentioned earlier, that special offer email is also in your eBay messages inbox (becuase it was sent by eBay) - if you don't wan to click on any links in your regular email, go to your messages Inbox on eBay, then open the special offer there, then click the link.

Since they have different copyright years, the latest one dated 2018 is more complete. Seems like they revised the original 2017 version and added more items to it. the 2018 version shows that it was printed in Italy (likely by Cartograf). I wonder if the 2107 sheet was also printed by them?

I see. And the EU version is too large to fit into US kit's box? So, the whole "US version is out of register" thing does not apply here at all. Duh! And the Copyright on one is 2017, while the other is 2018. The newer decal has a lot more graphics on it.

That could be a reasonable explanation if the decal sheet is large, but in this specific example both decal sheets have same size and are depicting the same prototype car..

I think the eBay response is wrong. It is probably a pre-canned automated reply. If a copy of it is in your eBay Inbox then the odds that it is fake are quite low. I also got a special offer last week (addressed "from eBay") for an eBay listing on my watch list. I even responded and communicated with the seller about it and chose not to take them up on the offer (I let the offer expire). When the seller replied to my question, that reply also showed up in my eBay Inbox and the seller's name was correct. It is good to be careful, but in this case I think it is a false alarm. Go to the copy of that message in your eBay Inbox, then open it and review the offer. That should be safe.

The question remains the same: why separate (and different) decals for the same kit released by each branch of the company? The plastic is the same.

I'm not sure what you are saying here. Sounds like you are not happy with my opinion about your comments. I responded specifically to your " I have yet to see a U.S. set of decals that fully in register and with the right colors. So it looks like the entire run of decals is bad. Probably the best example out how out of register the sheet is for those with U.S. kits is the fact that the arrows on the body work slam locks (that show the rescue crews how and where to detach body work in case of a fire) should be ON the slam lock decal, every set I've seen - dozens of them at this point - have the arrow printed beside the slam lock. " statement. Come on, I'm pretty sure that you realize that "out of register" colors on decals are off by very small (but visible) distance. The example you show is clearly not just out of register - it is printed from a different artwork. Decal #40 has the black areas flipped and the (different color) arrows placed outside of the black areas. Decal #40 uses the same color for arrows and lettering, while the other one has arrows in different color. Decal # 45 also has arrows of different color and different location. There are several other decals which clearly show a difference in artwork, rather than bad misalignment of the colors. The word "EDGE" in #14 is has solid fill on one decal and stripes on the other decal. This is different artwork - no question about. One thing I don't understand is why there are 2 separate sets of decals when Revell US and Revell Germany are now one company.

What brand/type of paint are you using? Decal set/sol solutions can affect the paint, and they can also leave some residue, but that is usually easily removed with water. The weaker formulas (the ones which smell like vinegar) should not leave much residue (but might not do good enough job getting the decal to settle down). Have you tried removing the residue by gently rubbing it with a cotton swab dipped in the setting solution itself? If you do this quickly, it should not affect the decal.

Funny that you want to add more green. The paint in those latest 3 photos look much greener than the previous photos. But the background looks different too (warm gray instead of cool white), so you probably used different source of light. To me the bluer version looked better.

That's not out of register - these were deliberately (for some reason) designed to be different. Out of register color are off by small fractions of an inch. These decals are clearly different by-design. As for the difference in color, was each sheet scanned separately? It to me looks like the difference in the background paper color messed around with the scanner's settings.

Today's teens and even preteens have us beat in too much time spent on the Internet. But we are old, and getting grumpy!

You can't send a MS Paint image file to a 3D printer.

Here are couple of scans form the 1995 brochure. Hopefully they will help in detailing your model.

Molotow pens and also Alclad II Chrome are nice but very fragile finishes. They will not withstand much handling. There is a current discussion (fairly lengthy) about Alsa Chrome system. It is pricey, but you can do it yourself and it is supposedly very durable. See:

That is a very good point - some decals are quite fragile.

I never liked those rounded (aerodynamic) "soap bar" body styles from the '80s, and they haven't grown on me yet (and never will). However I did like the more chiseled look of the GM cars like the Buick Grand National. I currently own a 1985 Caddy Eldorado Biarritz and I think it is a very good looking and elegant car.

To address another part of the original question, I don't think decals will adhere very well to a waxed surface. Especially if the wax has silicone in it, but any wax puts a water repellent coat on the paint's surface.

Nice find! These can fetch over $100 on eBay (especially in UK). But it is a wonderful model, worth building. I have few in my stash (I'll get to building them eventually).