peteski

If applied to a clean plastic surface and sanded within few hours of setting up, it sands well. But if you wait a day or two, it is not so good (it sets harder then styrene). Of course I assume that you use accelerator to set the glue (I use the BSI brand accelerator).

Yes, those *LARGE* scale 3D printed models are beautiful. But I'm sure they didn't come out of the printer looking like that - I'm sure some prep was involved to produce those stunning models. Also, I would be really interested what brand/model printed is being used to print those parts. I'm pretty sure it is not a $700 hobby printer. It is likely an industrial machine, way out of reach of reach of an average modeler. It probably costs more than your yearly salary. And the cost of resin also needs to be considered. But (as seen here), I have to say that the technology is already here for making 3D printed model cars.

I don't know that either, but seems more reasonable than the seller offering a discount or a sale ever few days. It would make sense that it is done automatically (if the item is not selling).

The 2-part (catalyst and resin) fillers do not shrink appreciably, and neither does CA glue when used as a filler. I'm not a fan of "liquid plastic" mentioned here, especially applied fairly thick. While the solvent will evaporate from the surfaces, it can stay trapped in the center of the "filler" for quite some time. It might even soften the plastic part it is applied to. It might take weeks or months in some instances. But different modelers use different techniques. Whatever works for you . . .

Yes, it seems that embossing powder is the "new flocking". From what I read here on the forum, it results in more realistic looking carpeting.

I think that this cyclical price reduction "sale" is something done automatically by eBay. Probably some setting the seller enables on long duration or buy-it-now listings to entice buyers.

Nice collection! Most of my childhood toys were left in Poland (and now gone) when I immigrated to USA. I did manage to bring few with me. And throughout the years I have reacquired (usually on eBay) several of the items from my childhood.

Yeah, couple of days ago mine was put away in my private warehouse at Hobby Link Japan! It should be well worth the wait!

Never tried it. Maybe the one Rico recommended is non-acetone kind? He didn't say. I'm old school - as soon as I hear fingernail polish remover I think: acetone.

Put me in the "doesn't do anything for me" category. Actually I think it is ugly. The proportions seem all wrong and exaggerated.

The "expert lady" who said that propellant was hardening was full of it. You are correct in stating that it is the binder (clear resin in the liquid paint). Maybe she meant to say "binder"? Anyway, propellant is a gas, usually propane, so it does not harden and turn into a transparent yellow resin. The leaky cans are usually due to a tiny void opening in seam where the side of the can is attached to the bottom. Since the can sits upright, the liquid (under pressure) will slowly seep out and harden. If the propellant was leaking, it would invisibly escape from the top of the can (usually from the valve).

There should also be an option to retract a bid (if you have a good reason, it is not a big deal).

For cleaning the wax residue from Shapeways FUD and FXD (or whatever they call those nowadays), I use either Bestine (it is a rubber glue solvent containing Heptane), or Naphtha (either VM&P Naphtha from a hardware store, or Ronsonol Lighter Fluid). Assuming that the fingernail polish remover is Acetone, the above chemicals are less aggressive than Acetone. I had bad experience with Acetone actually making some small parts soft and brittle.

"Oily anal discharge" can do the same. That was listed as a side effect of Olestra (the short low-calorie oil substitute used in potato chips).

I update my earlier post with some of the info you asked for. Sorry, my documentation skills are poor.

Yes you can use it for painting model cars, and yes I do. There are dozens of really nice colors available (and while some cost over $10/bottle, there are lots of cheap ones too - look in dollar stores). These are similar to 1:1 automotive lacquers - you need to use the same methods you would use for painting your model with 1:1 automotive lacquers. You need a primer/barrier coat over bare styrene. Here is my last build where I uses a nail polish. Nail polish is very viscous and needs to be thinned for airbrushing. I used PPG medium temperature reducer (thinner). I don't have the ratio (I thin it until I think it is usable), but it was probably around 50/50 ratio. I used Tamiya fine white primer for the undercoat (decanted and airbrushed). Then I applied a Testors Wet Look clear. No sanding/polishing/waxing was done to this model. As far as the number of coats and thinning ratios go, I don't really keep track (and I've built this model few years ago). I should make notes of my panting procedures, but I always forget to. Plus, that would further slow down my already-slow builds.

Hey Mike, that is a very nice model, and an interesting history lesson. Thanks! Or should I say "tanks!" Growing up in Poland in the late '60s and '70s, I have seen plenty of scars left by WW II. Then a school field trip to Oświęcim (Auschwitz) concentration camp left lots of images permanently imprinted in my mind. We should never allow what happened then to ever happen again.

Assuming you are asking about 5-point harness, do a Google search for 5-point seatbelt and look at the images.

Yes, the headlight's shape also screamed "Citroen", but I didn't have the time to research the actual model details.

To me "thirsty car" is a gas-guzzler (car that burns a lot of gasoline). Not something I would advertise for a small family car. Besides, that thing had such a small engine that I would never call it "thirsty". Unless it had a big hole in the gas tank and leaked gas like a sieve.

To my eyes, they have a different color. Regular BMF chrome has a warm silver color (like Nickel, or Stainless Steel) where aluminum foil is more bluish-silver. Quite noticeable when compared side by side.

Not yet - I need to first get better at 3D CAD. It takes time (and I have lots of already started non-CAD projects). I hope to do that someday and to get my own machine, but for now I can ask my Railwire friends to print my designs (when those are ready). And you're right - I do remember posting a link to that Photon thread elsewhere in the forum.

Looks like something that could be fairly easily designed in CAD and 3-D printed. Then that could be made as a master for making more resin copies. Mayne some 3-D designer could be talked into rendering this item?

Isn't the surface of the nose where the emblem is located convex? So the mold's surface will be concave. How do you squeegee a concave surface? Curved squeegee?

While the high voltage statement is accurate, it is not a capacitor. The CRT tube itself acts as a capacitor - the CRT itself holds the high voltage charge. Be careful with those!