peteski

Many of these Pyros were repopped by Life-Like in IIRC Historic Cars series. They are nice little kits. The show up on eBay often (or did last time I looked for them about 2 years ago).

Unfortunately it is not that simple. Ink Jet inks are translucent so the red and yellows will still need white undercoat. Unless you apply the decals to a white colored model.

That car has gorgeous lines - they sure don't make them like that anymore. it is pleasing to the eye and the hind quarters look muscular, like it is ready to go fast! When I was a kid I had a tethered-remote control one it was probably around 1/12 scale toy. It was orange. Actually it might have been my cousin's (but I just dreamed it was mine).

Exactly!

Nothing is real. Everything is fake. We are fake too! The conspiracy is real! I'm just a projection! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Thanks for the info Greg. There is another company called Cool Chem which makes Cyanopoxy glue which they claim is superior to standard CA. You mentioned how good a bond is when using the good old model cement - that is because that cement actually welds the plastic pieces together. A weld will be better than any glue joint which is only on the surface of the joined parts.

Yes, misinformation is rampant in this hobby. Including hobby companies It doesn't make things easier. I was enlightened few years ago at my club;'s meeting when one of the member gave a presentation on paints. That was an eye-opener! To answer your question, acrylic is the binder in those paints. Acrylic binder can be a water-based emulsion, or dissolved in a stinky organic-based solvent. So I think that Tamiya just tells you what substance is used as the binder. Similar to the house paints in a hardware store. They also give you descriptions like "latex" or "acrylic-latex". I think that Tamiya paints in the little glass jars are acrylic lacquers which use alcohol-based solvent (so they are only slightly-stinky). I never tried to thin them with water. I usually like to use thinners specifically designed for the paint. That way I don't have to worry about compatibility and bad reactions. Even the water-based paints have some other chemicals in the solvent - it is not just pure water. But then can be thinned with water. Those paints are usually enamels. My main gripe about the misuse of terms is that people just assume that acrylic=water-based and enamel=organic-based stinky solvent.

Yes, I meant Teflon when I wrote Nylon. Those are Teflon seals.

I accumulated them over the years, so I guess it makes me a tweezers collector. I did make that holder for them so I don't have to keep digging for the right pair in my tool drawers. And like you, I also use other tools for certain photoetched parts. And like I said, they are not just for photoetch - they come in handy for many different tasks.

Funny, I've been using this technique (but with the masking tape under the foil, not over) for years. It work really well for me (and no foil residue, and futzing with WD-40 on my paint job), but I might try it your way Steve.

Toy collectors like wheels which can roll freely. Scale model builders glue their wheels on so the models are static displays, and don't roll off of a table by accident.

Did someone say "tweezers"? Yes, those are quite important for handling photoetched parts, and for model building in general. I have accumulated a decent collection over the years.

I cringe every time I see people ask those "acrylic or enamel" questions. Long time ago, some uneducated modeler started this, and it caught on. Quick overviews:There are 2 main type of paints: lacquer and enamel. The liquid part of those paints is called solvent. It could be a very strong organic solvent (like acetone), something milder (like some type of alcohol), or even water. Or some combination of multiple chemicals. The other parts of paint are binder and pigment. Pigment is the color, and binder is what contains the pigment and makes it stick to the painted surface (it is the body of the paint). Binder can be many different things. Acrylic, polyester, epoxy and other resins can be binders. The difference between lacquer and enamel is the way they dry or harden. Lacquers dry by evaporation of the solvent. Once the solvent evaporates, the binder hardens and the paint (lacquer) is dry. This process can take from an hour to multiple days. But the lacquer (its binder) can be redissolved at any time by soaking it in the solvent. Enamels also initially dry by evaporation of the solvent. But that is only the first stage of the drying process. Once the solvent evaporates, enamel paints then keep hardening by a chemical reaction, which changes the properties of the binder. Once that process takes place, the enamel (unlike lacquer) cannot be redissolved using the solvent. The question which is often asked by modelers is whether the paint utilizes organic-based solvent (stinky paints) or some milder solvent like alcohol or water (those have low odor which many modelers prefer nowadays). But using "acrylic" to specifically identify the low odor (or water-based) paints is plain incorrect. There are lots of stinky paints (organic-solvent) which use acrylic resin as the binder. On the opposite end, stating that enamel=stinky is also wrong. There are many water-based enamels (actually most water-based paints are enamels). So the actual question should be: is that paint organic-solvent or water based? Or to greatly simplify it: stinky or low-odor?

That LePage stuff is just gel-type Super Glue (CA glue) - it says so right on the bottle. Is it really any better than all other gel-type CA glues?

I have owned a Badger 200 for over 30 years and I would never soak it in anything! The air valve has rubber seals which will be ruined by things like lacquer thinner! This AB has a very easy access to all the paint passages (which is the only areas you need to clean out). On the bottom you can pull of the paint bottle or paint cup, then unscrew and remove the needle, then on the front you can unscrew the tip protector and the nozzle (those are 2 separate pieces) . At this point you gained full access to all the pain passages. Just don't lose any of the nylon washers. I would then use pipe cleaners with lacquer thinner or acetone to clean out all the paint passages and inside of the nozzle. Cotton swabs can shed fibers which will get stuck in the threads of the airbrush body (where the nozzle screws in). I would also use a pipette with the solvent to flush out all the debris loosened by the pipe cleaner. I have done such a thorough cleaning only about half a dozen times in those 30 years. But I don't use water-based acrylics and I thoroughly flush the airbrush with lacquer thinner after each use. One thing I want to mention is that you might need a fresh nylon Teflon seal (the white ring) for the back part of the nozzle. The original one gets compressed and it might not tightly seal the air passage from the paint passage, and the AB will not spray well. I bought few spares after the first time I cleaned it and realized what the problem was after reassembly.

I agree 100% More info is needed for an accurate assessment.

There are vacuum pickup tools available for this type of work, but someone recently mentioned to just place a tiny ball of sticky substance at the end of a tootpick. It might have been Playdough. Then use that to pick the lens up and position it in the bucket. I use similar method. I found a roll of adhesive-only 3M tape (basically it is like just Scotch tape's adhesive on a transfer paper, without the clear. I make a small ball of the adhesive and place that on the end of a toothpick.

I have no problems when I swirl the bottle for a while. The airbrushed paint is thin, so it is easy to re-mix the metallic particles back into the liquid. Then, like I mentioned, I blow the "stale" paint out until it comes out properly mixed. But I agree, this would not work with a gravity-fed airbrush and a paint cup.

I assumed that TJ was telling us that his RAM seems to be only around 50% utilized. If he only uses his Win 7 computer for some simple tasks (like browsing the Web and streaming music) and not for some really fancy CAD apps, or serious video games, then he should be fine with what he has. My thought is that there is no need to upgrade anything unless there is a real need or a reason for it. If his 2Gb is only half utilized, adding another 6Gb will not be very helpful. A defrag is a good idea, but the cooling fan running fast while doing Windows updates is a good sign that Windows updates is the likely culprit. Sunning some sort of cleanup program would also likely improve the performance.

There are couple of active threads related to your question: Positive one: And a not so positive one:

In my experience with vacuum metalized plastic parts, the process is to first coat the parts with a glossy clear lacquer. Then it goes into the metalizing chamber where a very thin layer of aluminum gets deposited on the glossy clear. That results in a chrome-like silver finish. Sometimes at that point the parts are considered ready, but the metallic finish is rather fragile. So, in most cases there is another clear lacquer coat applied overt the shiny metallic surface. That makes the "chrome' a bit more durable. That final coat can also be tinted with a color dye which gives the final color. It can be any color like gold, red, blue, etc. That is how the colored metallic finishes are produced. And you're right - lots of items can be vacuum metalized not just plastic model parts.

You would probably have a reason to worry is you used water-based paints. But with organic-solvent-based paints (the stinky type), you worry about nothing. This is not a 2-part paint which will harden (by chemical reaction) inside your airbrush. You should be fine leaving it in the airbrush. I use a siphon-fed airbrush with a glass paint bottle on the bottom. When done with one coat I close the needle to stop the paint flow, but blow the air through it (to blow the paint off of the tip). When getting ready for the next coat, I gently swirl the airbrush around for a while to mix the pigment which might have settled down to the bottom of the bottle (not need to do that with clear lacquer). Then I open the needle and spray onto some unwanted surface (like a paper bag), to make sure the paint flows smoothly again, then spray the next coat onto the model.

I have a similar idea, using vinyl gutter downpipe. I will cut the downpipe into pieces long enough to hold the Evergreen bags, then glue then together into something like 2 X 4 or 3 x 3 array of "tubes". I will also need to use a flat piece of plastic (or wood) for the bottom. I bought the downpipe few years ago but haven't found the time to actually work on this low-priority project.

That is not what you want Greg for "chroming" plastic or resin kit parts. I explained that in my earlier post. You need vacuum metalizing equipment. If you want to go the electroplating route, even Micro-Mark (and other companies) sell setups for hobbyists. But not with real chromium (because that plating process requires some really nasty and poisonous chemicals). Chrome plating also requires undercoating of copper, and possibly nickel (to get that smooth mirror-finish). Just like 1:1 metal car parts to.

That is probably normal. Windows update process can be really hard on the CPU (which will make it run hotter). If you were to bring up the task manager (performance) while the fans are running fast, and show the CPU usage graph, it will likely show high percentage of utilization. Your PC also has a CPU fan (mounted over the CPU heat sink). That could also be clogged up with dust. The power supply (in the rear of the case) could also have another fan which might be partially clogged.