peteski

Well, not quite accurate. If you examine both MLQ and Alclad II Chrome liquid paints under magnification, they both contain very small thin metallic flakes. I do not know if either one is actually Chromium (I doubt it). But the metallic particles of each paint have different size the MLQ's vehicle (the clear liquid) seems to have more body and be slightly more viscous than Alclad's vehicle (which is mostly solvent that evaporates as the paint dries). When in a liquid form, the Alclad particles swirl in the liquid vehicle, scattering the light which hits them - that is why it looks just like shimmering silver paint (not shiny chrome). When it is sprayed onto a smooth (smooth=glossy) base coat, as the solvent dries, the scattered metallic flakes settle down and all align and lay down flat, creating a continuous smooth Chrome-like "mirror". Unlike Alclad, I suspect because of its more viscous vehicle, in a liquid state many of MLQ's metallic particles float on the surface. Since the liquid's surface is smooth, all the floating particles align themselves into a continuous chrome-like mirror, even when the paint is in its liquid form. You can observe similar phenomenon on the liquid surface of the old Testors Chrome paint. But Testors chrome uses duller looking metallic particles. When the MLQ is applied to a surface, the metal flakes stay on the surface of the vehicle while the solvent evaporates. The vehicle (almost like a clear coat) creates that smooth surface for those metallic flakes to settle on, so very important for the shiny-chrome look. So, that is why MLQ applied to a non-shiny base will look shinier than Alclad. But both Alclad and MLQ benefit from glossy undercoat. If you don't believe me, try applying MLQ over a coat of (semi-gloss) primer, and over glossy paint and see the difference in the chrome effect. The dark colored undercoat is desired (especially for Alclad) because there are some microscopic gaps between some of the metal flakes. If the the undercoat is not black its color will show slightly through those tiny gaps, lessening the chrome-effect. But if the undercoat is black, the light which gets throught those tiny gaps between metallic flakes will be absorbed (black paint absorbs light), not affecting the chrome-effect. Getting back to the subject of this thread, applying a clear coat (especially solvent-based) will soften the Alclad's and MLQ's vehicle and disturb the alignment of all those flat metallic particles which make that continuous "mirror", destroying the chrome effect. Water-based clear (like Future) will not disturb the particles much, but it will still (possibly due to changing optical properties of the metallic flakes) slightly degrade the chrome-effect.

3D printing is still in a teething stage, and there are several 3D printing technologies out there. Shapeways is nowhere near state-of-the-art when it comes to printing resolution or surface finish. Give it few more years and 3D printed parts will be indistinguishable from hand-made masters and resin cast parts (or even injection-molded parts). Even now, many resin-casters use 3D printed masters for casting their resin parts. Fireball Modelworks is one such company. Those wonderful resin-cast parts are copies of a 3D printed master.

To repeat, Rustoleum didn't acquire Testors. Both brands are already (and have been for a while) part of the RPM corporation. As far as what is printed on the can, it is just a name game. It is all part of RPM. If anything, they might have either merged production lines of both brands, or closed down the factory where Testors paints were made and now make them in the Rustoleum factory. I tried few One-Coat lacquer metallic paints (and took photos of many contest models painted with those paints) and the metallic flakes in them were hugely out of scale. They look more like glitter than a typical (Mica or Poly) metallic finish. Which paints in your opinion have well-scaled (for 1:24/25 models) metallic particles? Yes, Colors by Boyd paints were from Testors and those actually had much finer metallic flakes than the One-coat Lacquers. Still have some in my stash.

Nice! Do you know what diameter wire is being used?

Paul, that is a gorgeous car - one of my all-time favorite designs. Nice to see it in such great shape.

Samuel, while this is OT, I'm curious what you're using for photo lighting? Looks like some sort of rectangular array of LEDs.

And to set the record straight, the "chrome" is not really Chromium metal - it is a very, very thin layer of aluminum applied over that glossy clear lacquer which produces that chrome-like surface. The process is called vacuum metalizing.

If you look at the label it will show that it contains sodium hydroxide (Lye). Caustic chemical. Same stuff that is in oven cleaner, and the purple stuff. I'm not surprised that it removed "chrome" from plastic parts. But is smells much better than the other stuff. I buy the lemon scented version (for cleaning floors too).

Sort of the same train of thought: it reminds me of the HUMMER H3 Alpha (male) monstrosity. It will do well with the testosterone-challenged crowd until the gas prices get up to $5/gal. at which time it will fade away the way H3 did.

RPM also owned Floquil and Polly S before the killed both lines.

If you have the script artwork in vector format then you can easily have the scripts etched yourself. See https://ppdltd.com/ Many model railroaders use that company for custom low-volume etching jobs.

If you found the correct size tires in resin, why not paint your own whitewalls on them? It will be really easy to do that on resin (as opposed to on vinyl).

That looks good Joe! And the thinner pen springs look good as helper springs in the rear. But in the front you correctly installed thicker springs.

That's how I cut it too. I usually do it on a piece of pine board. The trick is to learn how to hold the knife perfectly perpendicular to the tube. If I screw up, I just discard the bad piece, dress the end and try again. This works really well on soft aluminum and on thin-wall brass tubing. The thick wall brass is a bit more difficult - takes a bit more work.

Another vote against Ultra Bright chrome foil. That stuff is simply a thin but stiff aluminum foil. The original chrome foil is actually not an aluminum foil but very thin foil made from some sort of low-melting point alloy. Not as bright as the Ultra, but it is much easier to work with. It stretches and conforms to complex surfaces very well. I would recommend it to someone especially who is new to applying foils. But this is describing foils I bought some years ago. Looking at the BMF website, they mention that the Ultra Bright Chrome foil is new. I wonder if they changed its formula recently and it is now softer and more pliable? I suppose I should pick up a sheet and try it again. https://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html And to toot my own horn a bit, the blue '57 Chevy featured on the BMF packaging is by yours truly.

I wouldn't use them. The springs use unrealistically thin wire. If you look at the 1:1 springs the spring are wound using "meatier" wire/rod. If the are not supposed to be functional (just for show) I would wind them by tightly wrapping some scale thickness copper wire around appropriately-sized brass tube mandrel. Then just slip the "spring" off the mandrel, stretch it until the coils look like the 1:1 spring, and trim it to size. It will look much better than a skinny-wire pen spring.

Nothing wrong with that way of thinking. As for my collection, sure some are few similar (straight-pointy tips) tweezers, but many others have different shape and function. Not all tweezers are alike.

Micro-Sol is alcohol based so it can attach painted surfaces. Micro-Set is acetic-acid (vinegar) based and usually safe for solvent-based hobby paints. Or is it the other way around? Just go by smell. If it smells like vinegar, it is the milder solution.

I have seen clear yellow headlights on some customized American cars. Yellow headlights are very popular (or maybe even mandated) in France. And of course, before driving lights were popular in cars I had a pair of yellow fog-lights installed on my Camaro (in the '80s). Fog-lights were yellow while driving-lights were clear.

It is just a regular #11 blade.

Nice looking kit! Too bad that it continues the current trend of molding tires with featureless sidewalls. I guess we can thank all the lawyers who protect the trade names of tire companies for this. It is so silly. A model is basically a free advertisement for a company if the logos appear on the model.

Decal glue is water-soluble. So if it was just glue, it should have come off with just some warm water and gentle rubbing. I wonder if what you are describing is leftover clear decal film (with the glue underneath it)? If that is the case, you cold try lifting the clear film using a piece of masking tape. Just press it against the spot and lift it. The other possibility could be that the decal was applied using a decal setting solution which not only softened the decal, but also the paint underneath it. If that is the case then the flaw is in the paint. Then you would have to try sanding it, then polishing.

Over the decades of modeling I have collected many pairs of tweezers, but 90% of the time I use my favorite small tweezers. I don't even remember where I got them. There is a logo on them, but I don't recall what it shows. They are not stainless steel and they are oxidized (um, rusty), but for some reason I really like them. I But if I need some specialized pair for some task, I have them all handy in my homemade tweezers holder. My favorite pair is in the front row, 3rd from the left.

Jason, while we do have all sorts of modelers here, this is mainly an automotive forum. My recommendation is to ask your questions on a forum which caters to military modelers. For example, if you go to FineScale Modeler forum they cater to the military modelers, and even have a specific section just for ships. I suspect that members there will be able to assist you better.

I absolutely agree with you about the disappearance of quality work. This is true for both, the unskilled and skilled tasks. Crappy sidewalk repairs and crappy car repairs for example. But most of those unskilled laborers don't want to clean bathrooms or hotel rooms, be short order cooks, or do many similar jobs. But you are right, lets not get too deep into this here. Just to let you know, I agree with your rants I read here about the rampant incompetence of the today's world. I also do not see this problem going away anytime soon (if ever).