peteski

Assuming you are asking about 5-point harness, do a Google search for 5-point seatbelt and look at the images.

Yes, the headlight's shape also screamed "Citroen", but I didn't have the time to research the actual model details.

To me "thirsty car" is a gas-guzzler (car that burns a lot of gasoline). Not something I would advertise for a small family car. Besides, that thing had such a small engine that I would never call it "thirsty". Unless it had a big hole in the gas tank and leaked gas like a sieve.

To my eyes, they have a different color. Regular BMF chrome has a warm silver color (like Nickel, or Stainless Steel) where aluminum foil is more bluish-silver. Quite noticeable when compared side by side.

Not yet - I need to first get better at 3D CAD. It takes time (and I have lots of already started non-CAD projects). I hope to do that someday and to get my own machine, but for now I can ask my Railwire friends to print my designs (when those are ready). And you're right - I do remember posting a link to that Photon thread elsewhere in the forum.

Looks like something that could be fairly easily designed in CAD and 3-D printed. Then that could be made as a master for making more resin copies. Mayne some 3-D designer could be talked into rendering this item?

Isn't the surface of the nose where the emblem is located convex? So the mold's surface will be concave. How do you squeegee a concave surface? Curved squeegee?

While the high voltage statement is accurate, it is not a capacitor. The CRT tube itself acts as a capacitor - the CRT itself holds the high voltage charge. Be careful with those!

If you want to see many examples of what can be done with Photon printers, check out https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45736.0 It is a very lengthy tread, but if you just scan through it and look at the photos, you'll be amazed. I know I am!

It seems that the solutions provided so far (pumping and alcohol rise) are for lack of any paint coming out of the pen. That doesn't seem to be your problem. While I don't have a solution, I wonder of the liquid chrome (paint) inside the paint thickened up, so when it dries the metallic flakes will not lay flat, align, and create the chrome-like surface? Can you tell if the liquid that turns into regular silver paint is thicker than what you remember it to be when the pen worked properly? I suppose that is would not also hurt to thoroughly rinse out the tip and the cavity that holds the tip. I would use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, but 91% should also work. I would take the tip out and using a pipette, flush out the cavity that holds the tip. Then soak the tip in multiple baths of alcohol to dissolve the paint caked up in there.

Yeah!

Thanks - makes much more sense now.

Interesting info. But since this is about plating, may I suggest that you change the subject of this thread. "Spoon test" is not very informative or describes what this thread is all about. You only have 3 days to edit the post.

What I see in it is some sort of weird angular version of AMC Pacer. Looks pregnant!

If Pledge Restore is a new name for what we in the past called "Future" floor finish, then if the car is already finished in glossy surface, there is no need to apply it before decals. If you apply it after decaling, then it will act like a clear coat sealer for the decal. I'm not a user, other than as an occasional dip for clear model parts. But if the paint coat on your model is flat then applying a coat of "Future" woudl give you a glossy surface which is desired for decal application. Then after decaling, you can apply the top layer (for the same reason as mentioned above).

Arts & Entertainment (A&E) channel? The Learning Channel? I remember when these showed wholesome programs. I haven't watched them for years though (not included in basic cable service I'm getting). What has this world come to? I also remember when MTV and VH-1 actually showed mostly music videos. Obviously thought, enough people watch the stuff those channels show. I also don't get the popularity of all the reality shows on TV (like the Bachelor or Survivor).

To me the term seems to be very clear (but often misused). Professional (or a Pro) is a person who's profession (and income) is whatever he does for a living. If someone builds models for profit, then he is a Pro builder. So if someone builds model for sale anywhere (doing it on commission, or even doing it on eBay), he is Pro. But by that definition, one of those eBay "Pros" can also be a hack - as long as he can sell his models as they were (poorly) built.

While not a fan of those plastic Aztec airbrushes, the engineering plastic they are made of is (or should be) resistant to lacquer thinner or other solvents like acetone. I would be surprised if the plastic parts were affected. But those airbrushed have sealed nozzle units and they cannot be disassembled for cleaning. I suspect hat most of their failures is due to clogged nozzle units. As mentioned earlier, some water-based paints actually curdle when exposed to strong solvents (like lacquer thinner). If that happens in an Aztec, the nozzle is trash. It makes most sense to get airbrushes made out of metal and ones which can be fully disassembled for thorough cleaning (when the need arises)..

It's scratchbuilt.

With all the work you did, you should have used them as masters, make a mold and cast more in resin.

While of course it is true that different lenses have different working distance, it is all about the magnification factor. The lenses with higher magnification have shorter working distance. I use #7 plate because I need fairly high magnification to work on my projects. That also results in a short working distance, but I fully expect that and have no problem with that. If one does not desire higher magnification factor then a pair of cheap dollar-store reading glasses (rated at +2.75 or higher - at least that is what I use) will work just as well as a headband magnifier with one of the lower number lens plated. I wear the Optivisor when I need the magnification. Then for even stronger magnification I use a stereo microscope. But I realize that this is an overkill for most modelers, but some of my models are quite small, so I find the microscope indispensable.

Ah yes, some brands of accelerators can easily attack plastic. They use things liek acetone as their solvent. Zap-a-Gap I believe is one such accelerator. That is why my go-to CA accelerator is the BSI brand. Very mild and will not attack styrene (even clear styrene). It might slightly mar fresh paint, but not like the acetone-based accelerators.

I don't ever recall any CA glue melting styrene, but liquid CA will readily start dissolving paint.

Since you chose to go with the Optivisor (wise choice), I recommend that you spend the few extra dollars and go with the DA model. It is well worth it. I own the DA model. They have cheapened the Optivisor's design a bit from the 30-year-old model I have. The adjustment knob is now plastic (mine was metal) and there are few other shortcuts they took. But it is still worth its price. The leather band on the forehead side makes it very comfortable to wear. I have multiple lens plates (LP-4, 7 and 10). I used to use 4 but now I pretty much use 7 exclusively. #10 is a bit too strong. I don't use any add-ons on it (like loupe or LED lights). MY workbench lighting is very bright. Like others said, it might take a while to get used to, but once you do, you won't wan to take it off your head. I also often wear a pair of cheal reading glasses under it so I can lift the hood and work without magnification. You just need glasses narrow enough to fit inside the hood.

Mixing liquid semigloss paint with gloss will never yield a fully glossy finish. But if you apply the semigloss paint first, then after it is dry, apply clear, you should be able to achieve nice glossy finish. Just make sure that the paints are compatible, so the bottom layer doesn't not wrinkle.