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Everything posted by peteski
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That could be a reasonable explanation if the decal sheet is large, but in this specific example both decal sheets have same size and are depicting the same prototype car..
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Fake eBay "Special Discount" email -
peteski replied to ChrisBcritter's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I think the eBay response is wrong. It is probably a pre-canned automated reply. If a copy of it is in your eBay Inbox then the odds that it is fake are quite low. I also got a special offer last week (addressed "from eBay") for an eBay listing on my watch list. I even responded and communicated with the seller about it and chose not to take them up on the offer (I let the offer expire). When the seller replied to my question, that reply also showed up in my eBay Inbox and the seller's name was correct. It is good to be careful, but in this case I think it is a false alarm. Go to the copy of that message in your eBay Inbox, then open it and review the offer. That should be safe. -
The question remains the same: why separate (and different) decals for the same kit released by each branch of the company? The plastic is the same.
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I'm not sure what you are saying here. Sounds like you are not happy with my opinion about your comments. I responded specifically to your " I have yet to see a U.S. set of decals that fully in register and with the right colors. So it looks like the entire run of decals is bad. Probably the best example out how out of register the sheet is for those with U.S. kits is the fact that the arrows on the body work slam locks (that show the rescue crews how and where to detach body work in case of a fire) should be ON the slam lock decal, every set I've seen - dozens of them at this point - have the arrow printed beside the slam lock. " statement. Come on, I'm pretty sure that you realize that "out of register" colors on decals are off by very small (but visible) distance. The example you show is clearly not just out of register - it is printed from a different artwork. Decal #40 has the black areas flipped and the (different color) arrows placed outside of the black areas. Decal #40 uses the same color for arrows and lettering, while the other one has arrows in different color. Decal # 45 also has arrows of different color and different location. There are several other decals which clearly show a difference in artwork, rather than bad misalignment of the colors. The word "EDGE" in #14 is has solid fill on one decal and stripes on the other decal. This is different artwork - no question about. One thing I don't understand is why there are 2 separate sets of decals when Revell US and Revell Germany are now one company.
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What brand/type of paint are you using? Decal set/sol solutions can affect the paint, and they can also leave some residue, but that is usually easily removed with water. The weaker formulas (the ones which smell like vinegar) should not leave much residue (but might not do good enough job getting the decal to settle down). Have you tried removing the residue by gently rubbing it with a cotton swab dipped in the setting solution itself? If you do this quickly, it should not affect the decal.
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Funny that you want to add more green. The paint in those latest 3 photos look much greener than the previous photos. But the background looks different too (warm gray instead of cool white), so you probably used different source of light. To me the bluer version looked better.
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That's not out of register - these were deliberately (for some reason) designed to be different. Out of register color are off by small fractions of an inch. These decals are clearly different by-design. As for the difference in color, was each sheet scanned separately? It to me looks like the difference in the background paper color messed around with the scanner's settings.
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Today's teens and even preteens have us beat in too much time spent on the Internet. But we are old, and getting grumpy!
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Dashboard conversion from left to right
peteski replied to DaveP's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You can't send a MS Paint image file to a 3D printer. -
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Decaling-Before or After Clearcoat
peteski replied to 69NovaYenko's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
That is a very good point - some decals are quite fragile. -
I never liked those rounded (aerodynamic) "soap bar" body styles from the '80s, and they haven't grown on me yet (and never will). However I did like the more chiseled look of the GM cars like the Buick Grand National. I currently own a 1985 Caddy Eldorado Biarritz and I think it is a very good looking and elegant car.
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Decaling-Before or After Clearcoat
peteski replied to 69NovaYenko's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
To address another part of the original question, I don't think decals will adhere very well to a waxed surface. Especially if the wax has silicone in it, but any wax puts a water repellent coat on the paint's surface. -
Same thing was happening to me (forum was inaccessible for about an hour) when I was experimenting with my problematic paragraph earlier. I was wondering if I was actually crashing the forum website, or was it only me. But I didn't see anybody complain about the outages, so I assume it was only me. I wonder if the forum simply blocks, for an hour, the IP address which is making it "sick". I verified that your paragraph (properly assembled) causes a 404 error for me too. I also shortened the paragraph and got another error I was seeing in my own earlier test. The following text (shown in red), when I click "Submit Reply", will cause a popup window to show up stating that the post no longer can be edited and hangs: I've never seen a bench seat in a 356 as in the interior shot of the blue roadster. I need to research that. It probably gets its "outlaw" moniker due to the mild visual departures from stock. Make sure to preface it with: Beautiful selection of cars there. There sure are some bugs in the forum's software!
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Computers make this easy. Just go to your profile and see your activity, then go to the very end. Here is your first post (and thread). How's that for a trip down the memory lane?
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Do an experiment: Start dividing the suspect text by half each time. So only post half of the text. If it posts ok, edit that post and just paste the other half. Keep editing your post (same post over and over) until you get to the specific area of text which causes the error. With 5 lines, this shouldn't take long. That is how I figured out what word in the text I was posting messed up the forum. That way we will have another reproducible test case for the admins.
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How much will dehydronators reduce dry times
peteski replied to 69NovaYenko's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
It would take much more than 110 degrees F to do this kind of damage. Probably more like 200 degrees! It almost looks like there was a jet or column of hotter air around the front of the body (as the rear doesn't appear to be warped much). I guess not all food dehydrators are equal. -
I'll see if I can post a photo of them - I have to dig them out first (long stalled project).
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If I was to make a guess, it is because Tamiya is curbside (no engine) and Revell has full engine detail. But I do like the overall look of the Tamiya model better. I think they captured the shape of the car better than Revell.
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That's true, the setting solution (one that smells like alcohol) can affect some paints. It would make sense to apply the decals before clear coat.
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Looks good! I build the K74 kit some years ago - it was part fun, and part frustration. Using real screws for detailing the engine is a good idea, but you used Philips-head screws. I'm not sure that Mercedes used Philips-head screws back in 1934. I think they were all slotted-head screws back then.
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And they were molded in multiple colors (a fact they touted on the box). I also liked that clear window in the bottom of the box showing those multi-colored parts trees. And then of course there were those clear display stands with the M-shaped base and a ball-joint, so the model could be positioned any way you wanted it. I build a bunch of WWII airplane kits from Matchbox as a teen, and this thread has brought back some fond memories.