peteski

I put my kit's decals in standard cheap polyethylene zipper bags. That protects them and the bag material should not affect the decals. I would stay away from waxed paper. Some of the Revell Germany decals which use thick clear film had waxed paper sheet to protect them. The wax paper left marks (impressions) in the shiny clear decal film.

I'll have what you're having! I really like pickled beets: the texture, the flavor, the color . . . I can eat them by themselves. Speaking of likable textures - I like water chestnuts for their unusual crinkly crunchiness.

LOL! Well, at least you can be fairly certain that it is not any of the parts you already replaced. Yeah, I know that this is very frustrating. No trouble codes are even set in the PCM? You mention that the problem is intermittent and that you checked all the wires. But how about the electrical connectors? Maybe one of those causes intermittant connection? Assuming that the PCM is in the passenger compartment, did you check the wires from the firewall connector to the PCM? When the car is working properly, can you simulate the problem by pulling off one of the connectors on on one of the sensors? Do you have the service manual which explains which components are responsible for controlling the idle speed?

This one is a piece of cake for me!

LOL, that will forever remain my secret! Just kidding. I saw the telltale broken circle reflection in several of your photos (on the shiny hemispherical engine intakes, or whatever those are called). I also often use my circular fluorescent magnifier lamp for illuminating my photo subjects, so I'm quite familiar with what its reflection looks like. I can also tell that it took some time to set up those photos. Like I said, job well done!

Nice build! The only thing that bugs me is the shallow-dish mags in the rear, but that is not your fault: The kit was not made correctly.

Simply stunning! You also asked for critiques. If the 1:1 bell housing and transmission were unpainted aluminum castings, and yours are finished, then I would say they look too shiny. Aluminum castings are dull (flat) silver. I quick coat of flat clear should take care of that.

Great looking model and very good photography! Do you use a circular fluorescent lamp when taking photos?

I got my kits and I have to agree that these are of Modelhaus quality. The body is nice and thin, and bubble and pinhole free. The interior tub floor has a thin patched area, but it should look fine. The undercarriage has an area of missing resin around the rear end, but I suppose it is not too visible. The tires look awesome but the mold half (at the sidewall) is misaligned so the sidewall sticks proud from the thread slightly. I'm not complaining - just mentioning my findings. The overall shape of the body and the surface quality is really good. Hard to believe that it was all sculpted by hand without any CAD aid. The thin vacuu-formed "glass" will look really good too. The separate hood provides a nice choice for a full engine build. And the transparent headlight and taillight lenses are nice bonus too. There are more goodies too. Awesome job guys! A great model of a 4-door sedan which would otherwise probably never been produced. I will not be building it anytime soon, but I'll have it when the time comes.

I often see that when I drive to work. It is not electrical gremlins - it is inattention of the drivers. Like Rob says, what you see is the DRLs, not headlights. The problem with modern cars which have DRLs but not automatic headlights is that often the gauges on the dash are illuminated at all times (not just at night). So, unlike in the old days, when you couldn't see your gauges when the ambient light got darker, today;'s drivers see a fully illuminated dashboard and also the DRLs casting reduced-intensity light onto the pavement, so they don't have any clues that their regular headlights (and taillights) are not on. Another thing that irks me is that drivers do not turn on their headlights when it is raining. We have a law that when the wipers are on, the headlights need to be on too, but many drivers drive with no lights. This is really dangerous during overcast days with heavy rain. If someone drives a gray or black car with no headlights, they are pretty much totally invisible (especially when they are coming from behind, and the water drops on the side windows and the water spray from the tires make things really blurry). And of course they drive fast! I had few close calls when I was about to change lanes not seeing any cars, but the dark asphalt-colored car suddenly showed up next to me. I couldn't see them.

Well, I was going by what was mentioned in the original question. But you are of correct about the body fillers for 1:1 cars (and often used by modelers). Either way, if the proportions were way off, the stuff will likely never fully cure.

That is how I explained it earlier in this thread. That confirms it. You "cemented" your earlier bid with with an even higher bid.

Ewww! The nose looks like grinning face. I think I like Pontiac Aztek's nose better! The rest of it certainly has that '90s look to it.Smooth and flowing.

Also a member since late '90s. I haven't sold anything there for a while, but I do buy or bit in things.I don't really see anything unusual here. As a seller you should also be able to see each bidder's history of bids on other auctions (or at leas some subset of it). As I see it, bidder #1 is one of those bidders who bids a high amount in their initial bid and eBay does the proxy bidding for them when others start bidding on the item. The 2-4 seconds bids from the #2 are probably manual bids. When you place a manual bid and eBay proxy outbids you, you see that in your bid dialog box - it asks you if you want to place a higher bid. It basically entices you to bid higher, and I think the next bid amount is already pre-filled for you. If you are not a very slow typist and don't have a slow computer or Internet connection, you can place consecutive bids seconds apart. Then #1 looked at the bid status and saw that another bidder is threatening his high bid, so he upped his maximum bid (by outbidding his original amount) to "cement" the chances of him winning the item. If the lower bidders do not exceed #1's first bit amount, then both of #1's bids will show the same amount (since there was no need to go over their fist bid amount. I see that often. I really miss the openness of early eBay, where you could get full contact and bid history of any eBay member. I could for example see whether the person I was bidding against was a sniper or early high-bidder.Or what sort of items they were bidding on. That would make me adjust my bidding method. But it it all is now obfuscated.

Another possibility is that the epoxy and hardener were not mixed thoroughly enough. If you had a dehydrator (or some place where there is about 100 deg. F where you can place the model), you could try to put it there to see if the epoxy will set under elevated temperature. But from your description I doubt the epoxy will ever full set. Ace, I have never seen polyester resins used as model adhesive or filler, so I suspect that Gene was using some run-of-the-mill epoxy adhesive. Probably the 5-minute kind. But I agree that we need more detailed info from Gene to give him better advice. As far as mixing small quantities of the 1:1 ratio (like the 5-minute) epoxies go, they are not all that sensitive to keeping the exact ratio. I do not use the double-syringe type - I prefer the kind that comes in 2 individual aluminum "toothpaste" tubes with screw-on caps. I very often dispense a dollop each of epoxy and hardener onto a piece of masking tape stuck to a small palette, then using a toothpick I scoop up about a sunflower-seed-size of each and mix them thoroughly. I'm sure the ratio is not perfect, but I never have a problem with the epoxy not setting properly. Also, while I agree that it has a shelf life, I had some over 10 years old (Devcon brand 5-minute epoxy in individual tubes) and it worked just fine for me until I used it all up.

Why try to decide where? With all that money you could own a properly at every location, and travel between them in your private jet. Come on - think *BIG*! You could also afford the best of health care and your own personal team of doctors.

Ah, ok. That makes sense. The tribute version is also beautiful!

Gorgeous model, and I love the color combination! I do have a question: would a 1:1 car with white interior also have white dashboard pad? Wouldn't that cause all sorts of nasty reflections of the bright dash on the windshield under certain lighting conditions? I own a 1:1 car with white interior (dark-blue carpet and some interior trim) and the dash pad is also dark blue.

The main active ingredient in it is the same as in the oven cleaner (lye).

That is the problem - the odds. Few years ago both the Mega Millions and the Power Ball changed their rules (increased the pool of numbers to pick from) which greatly decreased the odds of winning the jackpot. Under the old rules the jackpots were usually between 30 and few hundred Million Dollars. They also doubled the price of the ticket. With the new lower odds of winning and doubled price to play the jackpot grows much higher, but is that really good? I would rather see more people (including me) winning smaller (but still very large) jackpots more often. But the lottery is not about the players - it is about the lottery (government) making money. I have heard lottery being called "tax on poor people" because while that part of the population pays no, or little taxes, they buy lottery tickets with the little money that they have, and usually they have nothing to show for. As for what to do with all that money, I'm sure I would find something to do with it. And I'm sure that one can easily adapt to the lavish life of the rich and famous. You won't know that until you actually have that money at hand. I have also heard that many average-folk lottery winners go broke. Spending money is easy.

Dave, thanks for the update. Your health comes before anything else (especially a silly free online forum). Take care of yourself, worry about the forum later. Like you said, if you are not 100%, you do not want to deal with the problems.

I've seen that message from time to time on my Win 7 laptop running Seamonkey browser. It doesn't seem to affect the functionality, so I ignore it. Nowadays there are so many compatibility problems between browsers and websites that I'm surprised things work as well as they do.

Looks like it is time to start buying directly from the source. http://specialshapes.com/ No online ordering, but you can actually call them, speak to a real person and place a phone order. Actually Special-Shapes is a division of K&S. I have been ordering brass shapes and thin-wall tubing from them long before they were acquired by K&S. Take a look through their website to see what thy offer - lots of useful items (much wider selection than the usual K&S stuff in hobby shops).

If that is how you feel about it, isn't it time to trade her in for a new model?