peteski

Let's see. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anwy2MPT5RE Ah, I know what I was doing wrong. I was using the "add link" button above the text window. Silly me. Makes sense now.

I see that done all the time, yet I haven't figured out hos to do it. I know how to include photos (either uploaded or linked) into my posts, and how to insert URL links. But videos have me stumped. I can insert the URL to a video (and it shows up as a clickable link), but I would like to have the video show up in the post. How do you all do it? I use a Seamonkey (flavor of Mozilla Firefox) browser and either MS Windows XP or 7.

And of course:

While there are several flavors out there, I prefer the original flavor.

If it is one of those electronic PWM dimmers then it is way overkill. No need - simple resistor will do the trick. If you want to have control of the brightness get a small trimmer potentiometer. I would get a 5000 ohm (5 k ohm) 1/2W rated and then use it instead of a fixed resistor. That will give you a good range of brightness adjustment. Something like this one: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cts-electrocomponents/201XR502B/201XR502B-ND/98337 But do whatever works for you.

Very nicely done model Al! I noticed the red-ended wiper blades before reading your later post. Nice touch! If that was my build, one thing I would do differently would be to skip the rear window defroster lines. They are just way too noticeable on the model. On a 1:1 scale car those are probably about 1/64" wide and usually dark rusty brown color. So to be in-scale (and barely noticeable as on a 1:1 car), those would have to be only 0.002" wide! That type of a detail is best to be left off on models.

Nice model! You can likely reduce brightness of those LEDs by installing additional resistor or resistors into the circuits. But I would have to see the entire circuit to offer any specific suggestions as to the resistor value. I guess that that splicing a 1000 ohm (1k ohm) resistor into one of the wires coming out of the battery would reduce the brightness by quite a bit. It will not cause any damage.

I use pins to positively locate parts during final assembly (when they parts are painted). I use brass rod (wire) in diameters ranging from 0.010" - 0.032" depending on the size of the parts. For items like side mirrors on the doors where the exact location is not critical, I simply drill into the base of the mirror (make the hole few thousands of an inch larger then the pin and glue the pin into it using CA glue. I use thin CA and have to insert the wire quickly (the glue sets fast). I also roll the wire with my finger few times over a piece of 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper before gluing it to roughen the surface of the pin. Then I eyeball the location on the door and drill the hole to accept the pinned item. For items such as headers attached to the cylinder head, or attaching cylinder head to the block, I simply hold the unpainted and aligned parts together, then drill right through both parts. That assures perfect alignment. I then glue the pin into the part that sits on the outside (like headers headers). The hole in the headers is so small that tiny bit of CA glue will fill it in. Then I paint the parts and the pins guarantee perfect alignment.

Thanks Darren! I actually wrote an article on my build (back in the '90s) but it never got published. One of these days I might revisit the subject and post the build details online.

I LOVE SPAM! Can I have your SPAM?

You know Tom, as I see it, something similar is happening with other things. Companies are trying to come up with a largest possible variety of products to attracts the widest possible number of consumers. For many past decades there were basic products which did not change. A perfect example is an Oreo Cookie. There was only one type and, one flavor. Then they came out with double stuffed version, but at least it was the same cookie and filling. Then things exploded with all those special limited editions and seasonal versions. Now if you look at your grocer's shelf there is a dozen of different flavors, thin and thick cookies, and even mini-versions! There are caramel, mint, pumpkin spice, birthday cake, and many other varieties. There are now also chocolate and vanilla versions of the cookies. I could go on and on . . . Or a Milky Way Bar: There are several flavor varieties and sizes (including the fun-size). I think that similar thing happened with postage stamps - they just opened up the subject depicted to appeal to the widest group of buyers. I'm not sure if this is good or bad. To me sometimes it seems that we have too much variety in our lives.

Tom I didn't meal literally that the older forever stamps will increase their value (like antique or rare items do). But if you think about it, if you bought some forever stamps back when they cost 39 cents and use them now to mail out your letters now (the postage now costs 50 cents) then you saved yourself 11 cents on every letter you sent out. That 11 cents is that increase in their value I mentioned.

Do a Google search for theatrical gels or gel filters. Those are used as color filters for stage lights and they come in many colors. FIns the distributor nearest you (and even Amazon) and pick the color you want.

Here's mine (done in the '90s, using a mix of bulbs and early SMD LEDs). Few more photos at http://classicplastic.org/pete-pb.html

In-n-Out?! It's been a while for me (living on the Right Coast). When I'm in CA I always look for In-n-Outs.

When I asked about the PM acknowledgement I didn't want to put any pressure on anybody. Lots of us are over 50 and have full-time daytime (or in my case, nightime) jobs. I know that these kits (unlike injection molded plastic kits) will be a fairly limited run. I just wanted to make sure that my request/reservation was received. Now that I know what the status is, and what to expect, I'm perfectly happy. Thanks guys for all your hard work and dedication. it takes a special person to produce quality resin kit, and this is one sure seems like a high quality kit of a unique subject.

All those "forever" stamps will always be worth their face value (and since the cost of postage is always going up, the value will actually increase). Well, for as long as the USPS is in business and the snail-mail is being sent.

I like what I see. A clean and clever build!

Sorry, that was my mistake. Looking back, I sent my PM to Gregg Wan, no you. It shows that he read it on Monday at 12:51 AM - just didn't reply to me to acknowledge. In that PM I asked to reserve 2 kits for me. I hope that this doesn't get too confusing.

I know you're now trolling. I would be surprised if *ANY* judged contest didn't have a rule which stated that the the model entered in the contest had to be the work of the person entering it. But as you said, we don't have the facts. If the person who stated this thread informed us of the contest rules (he attended that contest after all), there would be no guessing. And again, the point being made here is that it is not kosher to enter someone else's work in a judged contest. If you want to keep arguing that it's ok to do that, be my guest.

I PM'd you last night with a reservation. Hopefully you will provide some sort of acknowledgement to those people who PM'd you, to let them know that the pre-order has been received.

Why, do you know that contest's rules? All the contests I have attended specifically state that the model entered must be the work of the person who entered it. So just entering someone else's work constitutes cheating.

Entering someone else's model in my club's contest is a no-no. The contest rules specifically state that the model entered must be the work of the modeler who enters it in the contest. No collaborations. it would be like you having someone run and win a 100 meter dash and then you taking the trophy. Not cool. That's cheating. If you think about it, if that was allowed, you could buy a a factory-built and beautifully made die-cast or resin model and enter it in the contest without having done any work on it.

With that I agree.

I'm all set for now, but thanks Hugh! I'll bookmark that site for future reference. I didn't really need hi-temp insulation for that specific project, but just by working with that wire I noticed that it is not affected by a 700 deg. F tip of my soldering iron. It is also solid (not stranded) wire.