peteski

The glue is not the problem or cause of this - it is the baking soda. I've seen examples where the CA glue did not fully get soaked into the baking soda. When moisture (if you live in a humid climate) gets to that baking soda (through some pinholes in the glue), it will be absorbed by the baking soda (because it is water-soluble), and the whole mess will start oozing out. Bottom line is: using home-brewed solutions is not always good idea.

The surfaces are machined flat, and there are tons and tons of pressure holing the mold halves together. The liquid plastic is also injected under very high pressure, so it fills all the cavities in the mold. As the molds wear out, the flat surfaces are not so flat, and that is where flash on parts comes from - the plastic starts to ooze in between the mold halves.

Thanks for this post and the photos! I never thought that CA/baking-soda thing was a good idea, and I always recommend not doing it. Especially, since the CA accelerators are readily available, and so are many different filler materials (if needed).

Thanks for the info Mark. My next question is: what exactly did you use for the ignition wires? The color and surface finish looks very realistic (like silicone-insulated wires). But you couldn't really apply waterslide decals to that type of material and have them stick. Also, did you seal those decals with some clear lacquer, or just applied and left it as it was?

Hey, whatever works for you. I have some adhesives and paints which are over 30 years old and they are still fully usable. But your right, some paints and adhesives (and especially urethane casting resins) have limited life.

Yes, there is not such thing as too many adhesives (for models). Testors tube cement can only do so much. I have bought the non-fogging CA in the past, but it is more expensive and with using the accelerator I really don't really have a need for it (the glue sets before it can fog anything). http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/super_gold.html

Nope - the accelerator sets it so fast that it doesn't have time to fog up. And you don't have to prop the parts up until the glue sets. Just apply a tiny bit of accelerator (BSI Brand) to the hole in the mirror, dip the tip of the stem in CA, and plop the tip in the hole. Hold it steady for couple seconds and now you have fully assembled mirror. I like to strip the plating from the parts first. I use a drill to clean the hole in the mirror side and fresh hobby knife blade to scrape the tip on the stem. It doesn't have to be stripped all around - just expose the bare plastic in few areas - just enough to get a plastic-to-plastic joint.

Epoxy? Ain't nobody got time for that! This is a perfect application for CA glue and accelerator.

Wow! How exactly did you accomplish that?

I see that 1 and 3 have that "slightly warm" golden tone that the original chrome BMF foil has. You did an excellent job on these parts. Something that you would never be able to achieve using the BMF's ultra bright chrome foil.

That is too bad that Anthony is a trouble maker. He is an excellent truck modeler. I have seen (and photographed) some of his models the Classic Plastic model contests.

If you are worried about free-handing the lettering on a model, get some clear-film decal paper designed for laser printers (not ink jet) and then draw the lettering on that. Once you are happy with the results, cut out the lettering and apply it to the model, just as any other lettering.

Yeah, typical 30AWG Kynar wire wrapping wire has a total OD of around 0.020" with is a bit thick for 1:24/25 factory stock wires. What's wrong with Detail Master and Pro-Tech ignition wires?

I think that the question was asked not for precision engineering reasons, but probably just to see what wheels will be compatible with those tires.

He specifically asked for AMT slicks dimensions. I assume it is for a 1:25 scale model of some Funny Car. Does AMT make more than one slick? The dimensions he mentioned were given as an example of what he is looking for. At least that is how I understand the question, but it is not very well composed.

Ace, while in a perfect world the models woudl be perfectly scaled down and tires would have the dimensions you described, this is often not the case. Plus, then the person asking this question would have to search for the dimensions of 1:1 tires. Especially problematic is the wheel dimension (since model wheels aren't quite made the same way as the real wheels). For example the outside diameter of a 14" wheel is actually around 15.5". That would likely be closer to the dimension of the OD of the model wheel, and the inside diameter of a 14" model tire. Then some model manufacturers fudge some dimensions too, so the model tires aren't always scaled correctly. The simple question that was asked here was for the actual dimensions of the model tire. While I don't have those tires to provide the desired answer, I hope that someone else will chime in. Sometimes you are being too logical Ace.

I have an old Soviet drafting set (brought with me when I immigrated to U.S. decades ago) and I use those ruling pens to draw traces on copper-clad when I make one-of circuit boards. The Testors paint acts as etching resist. I can see that ruling pen should do a good job for marking tires (if one can keep the pen steady enough).

Looks great to me! I love those big '70s cars. The color combo is also attractive, and white interiors look very elegant. My 1:1 '85 Eldorado Biarritz has a white interior too.

Was that kit actually molded using that injection molding machine?

Thanks for the info Mike.

I see . . .

Why not? because it adds cost to the model. At least that's what I think. About 15 years ago there was a new company in US which offered those scripts. They did Chrystler and few others, and they were going to expand the line, but they disappeared. I think one of the owners was Mark Palacz (not sure about the name). There is a Chinese eBay seller who has hundreds of metal logos stickers (and many waterslide decals), but unfortunately the great majority is way too large to be useful on anything other than 1:18 scale and larger! https://www.ebay.com/usr/globaltoy

Corvair or is it an NSU?

I have had dog problems with one of my neighbors ever since I moved into my house over 25 years ago. At this point they went through several dogs. They always have to have at least just one, and they are clueless - they let them out and don't let them back in for a long time (the dogs are out in the rain or cols barking away to be let back in). Or the kids would go to school, let the dog out and leave it until someone came home. Regardless of the weather. I am home during the day, so the barking really gets to me. They have been better lately, but not quite as good as it should be.

I'm curious: For how many years has the post editing been enabled permanently? In that time were there any hacks contributed to the ability to edit the older posts? I guess that I just don't see how the ability to edit ones posts can make the forum vulnerable.