peteski

Today's teens and even preteens have us beat in too much time spent on the Internet. But we are old, and getting grumpy!

You can't send a MS Paint image file to a 3D printer.

Here are couple of scans form the 1995 brochure. Hopefully they will help in detailing your model.

Molotow pens and also Alclad II Chrome are nice but very fragile finishes. They will not withstand much handling. There is a current discussion (fairly lengthy) about Alsa Chrome system. It is pricey, but you can do it yourself and it is supposedly very durable. See:

That is a very good point - some decals are quite fragile.

I never liked those rounded (aerodynamic) "soap bar" body styles from the '80s, and they haven't grown on me yet (and never will). However I did like the more chiseled look of the GM cars like the Buick Grand National. I currently own a 1985 Caddy Eldorado Biarritz and I think it is a very good looking and elegant car.

To address another part of the original question, I don't think decals will adhere very well to a waxed surface. Especially if the wax has silicone in it, but any wax puts a water repellent coat on the paint's surface.

Nice find! These can fetch over $100 on eBay (especially in UK). But it is a wonderful model, worth building. I have few in my stash (I'll get to building them eventually).

Same thing was happening to me (forum was inaccessible for about an hour) when I was experimenting with my problematic paragraph earlier. I was wondering if I was actually crashing the forum website, or was it only me. But I didn't see anybody complain about the outages, so I assume it was only me. I wonder if the forum simply blocks, for an hour, the IP address which is making it "sick". I verified that your paragraph (properly assembled) causes a 404 error for me too. I also shortened the paragraph and got another error I was seeing in my own earlier test. The following text (shown in red), when I click "Submit Reply", will cause a popup window to show up stating that the post no longer can be edited and hangs: I've never seen a bench seat in a 356 as in the interior shot of the blue roadster. I need to research that. It probably gets its "outlaw" moniker due to the mild visual departures from stock. Make sure to preface it with: Beautiful selection of cars there. There sure are some bugs in the forum's software!

Testing post - can be deleted.

Computers make this easy. Just go to your profile and see your activity, then go to the very end. Here is your first post (and thread). How's that for a trip down the memory lane?

Do an experiment: Start dividing the suspect text by half each time. So only post half of the text. If it posts ok, edit that post and just paste the other half. Keep editing your post (same post over and over) until you get to the specific area of text which causes the error. With 5 lines, this shouldn't take long. That is how I figured out what word in the text I was posting messed up the forum. That way we will have another reproducible test case for the admins.

It would take much more than 110 degrees F to do this kind of damage. Probably more like 200 degrees! It almost looks like there was a jet or column of hotter air around the front of the body (as the rear doesn't appear to be warped much). I guess not all food dehydrators are equal.

I'll see if I can post a photo of them - I have to dig them out first (long stalled project).

If I was to make a guess, it is because Tamiya is curbside (no engine) and Revell has full engine detail. But I do like the overall look of the Tamiya model better. I think they captured the shape of the car better than Revell.

That's true, the setting solution (one that smells like alcohol) can affect some paints. It would make sense to apply the decals before clear coat.

Looks good! I build the K74 kit some years ago - it was part fun, and part frustration. Using real screws for detailing the engine is a good idea, but you used Philips-head screws. I'm not sure that Mercedes used Philips-head screws back in 1934. I think they were all slotted-head screws back then.

And they were molded in multiple colors (a fact they touted on the box). I also liked that clear window in the bottom of the box showing those multi-colored parts trees. And then of course there were those clear display stands with the M-shaped base and a ball-joint, so the model could be positioned any way you wanted it. I build a bunch of WWII airplane kits from Matchbox as a teen, and this thread has brought back some fond memories.

I did.

That is some fancy spray can! I wonder if the results we see is the hardener not properly mixing with the paint as it leaves the nozzle? Too fancy for me.

Glad that I was able to shed some light on this.

I also have very inexpensive basic dehydrator (shown here). It has a 40W element on the bottom and no temperature control. There are adjustable shutters on the bottom and in the lid. I have the shutters adjusted to give me a temperature range 100-110 deg. F. I have an inexpensive meat thermometer stuck through one of the holes in the lid to indicate the temperature inside. In the 30 or so years I have been using it, I have never damaged or warped any items I dry in it.

I watch the reruns on MeTV and yes, all the ladies are hot! And speaking of the Invaders, I was channel surfing over the weekend (and nigth) and the premiere episode was being shown on MeTV. Looks like they will be showing the series.

I like what I see here! My GF owned the M-Edition, Merlot Mica paint, BBS RG wheels and leather interior. That was shortly before I met her. She had photos and I promised her that I would build her a model (using the Tamiya kit). I got the correct paint for it, right wheels from Aoshima, and started some assemblies. I even designed and photoetched all the badges and emblems for it (including a metal peace symbol she had hanging off the rear view mirror. That was about 20 years ago and the model is still in pieces! One of these days I'll finish it . . . I'm so bad!

Yes, I also liked their offbeat rear end styling, and the nose looked pretty sharp too.