peteski

Relative humidity is not the only factor we need to consider when painting. There is a difference in 54% RH 65 deg. F, and 54% RH and temperature of 80 deg. F. The combination of those 2 values gives you the dew point. I would have no issues spray-painting when it is 54% RH and 65 F but doing that at 54% RH and 80 F is a bit risky.

WOW!

That's merchindising for you. Companies need to constantly change names and update the packages. It is happening with most of the products around us. I also think it sucks! But the ad agencies hired by the producers need to earn their big bucks somehow, so they redesign packaging or change product names. Very silly (to me). Actually in this specific instance company mergers or brand reshuffling dictated some of the changes. Of course whenever someone mentions this magical liquid, I can't resist pointing them to . . . http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Looks good Mike, but what about killing the shine on the tire tread? For some reason, it really jumped out in those photos.

Why not tell us which kit this is? Did it have instructions? What do the instructions show? That entire fender assembly looks a bit wonky to me.

Thanks Mark. This brings another question: how to get in touch with Kenny outside of Facebook? This is the Facebook page.

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing. Maybe you are thinking of magnet wire? The one I was recommending is not floppy at all. Besides, it will be strung between 2 attachment points to keep it taut.

So you are saying that the kid next door exposed you (opened your eyes) to model cars? So it is ok, for a kid to expose things to other kids, but not for an adult to expose a youth to a model car hobby? Do I sense a contradiction here? If that kid didn't show you his models you might have never got into the hobby. Do you see what I did there? Maybe we should just better define "exposing" vs. "cramming something down their throat". To me"exposing" is exactly what that kid did for you. You could show some of your models or even your workshop to some kid without forcing them to try building a model. That is what "exposing" is all about.

I also dislike large signature images. Thankfully, it seems that this forum has a way to block them on absolute or individual level. But I still think it is rude of people to include large photos in their signatures. And I also know that opinions are like a-holes . . .

Probably to make the "glass" look like the real car, not sit deep inside of the out-of-scale-too-thick plastic body. As long as the glass area is thin and clear I actually think that is a good idea.

Not a bad deal at all!

Not all the water-based acrylic paints are compatible. There are several different formulas and they are incompatible. Maybe the brand you use is not compatible with Future floor finish?

I originally posted this question in the Drag Racing Models section, figuring that it might be the best audience for this question, but I had no replies. Trying the Off-Topis section. What happened to magazine and their website? Going to http://www.fuelcoupe.com shows "account suspended". I did visit their Facebook page (I'm not on FB) but I don't see anything mentioned there regarding the website being down. Last post on FB is almost 2 months ago.

While I don't know rules in PA, I find it hard to believe that traffic laws in any state would allow: 1. Running a red light (in any direction) 2. Encourage aggressive driving. But what I do hate is the timid drivers who come to a full stop when entering a divided highway from on on-ramp. That really makes impossible to merge with the traffic (which even in the slow lane is going at least 55 MPH!). Especially where there is no breakdown lane on the right. There were few instances where I almost rear-ended those individuals. There is a Yield (not STOP) sign at the end of the on-ramp. I also used to see "Merging Traffic" signs, but I don't seem to see those much anymore.

Oh yeah, this stuff is still made (and probably will be for a long time). http://www.parafilm.com/products#laboratory This film's main application is as a seal in laboratories. But some enterprising modeler figured out a way to use it for a masking film. This was way before Internet forums. IIRC< the first mention of Mariafil M in hobbies was in an article in FineScale Modeler Magazine. I also have large roll I bought many years ago (not the small quantities repackaged by Testors) - this stuff doesn't seem to go bad. Like others mentioned, there are many online sources. One word of caution. If you used that stuff in a stretched form, the solvent from hot lacquers can soften it or even permeate it. I once masked a windshield with Parafilm to airbrush the black surround. When I peeled the Parafilm off the "glass" it was slightly crazed. But I lay the paint rather wet and that might be part of the problem.

I don't have enough info here and I don't know the traffic laws in IL to see if what he did was correct. For example, since there was a dedicated left-turn lane, was there a full set of left turn signals (red, yellow, and green left turn arrows)? Or just solid green for all the directions? If there is a red left turn arrow illuminated then I would not make a left turn until I had a green left turn arrow. But if the only traffic signal lit up at that point was solid green with no directions indicated then I would have turned left if it was safe to do so.

Looks like I'm not the only one using Parafilm - that stuff is great!

What diameter is the wire you need? Many computer ribbon cables (like the ones used to hook up the IDE hard drives, CD-ROM drives or floppy drives to the motherboard) use 30 AWG (approx 0.010" diameter) tin-plated stranded copper wire. You just have to strip the insulation. It looks just like the cable in Skip's picture.

Ah, just like the Professor and Mary-Ann in the first season of Gilligan's Island. I'm a fairly recent member but I suspect that there just isn't enough members who build bikes and post in a separate forum. So they go in the All the Rest Bucket. I build bike models too - just not very many.

In situations like that I use thin strips of masking tape placed along the edges of the molding. Then I apply BMF burnishing it well onto the molding (which is between the strips of tape). When I use the knife to trim, it easily follows the masking tape edge. Last I peel off the masking tape with the leftover BMF.

Ah, so I remembered it correctly. Maybe I should pick some of those little cigarettes and relive my childhood . . . BTW, that Google book is an interesting find. It really is amazing how much information is out there and how instant the search results are. No more doing research at the local library - the world's knowledge is at our fingertips, without even having to leave out home (or even on those new-fangled smart-phones).

This is probably not the proper forum for this question but I think that I'll have best chances of getting some answers here. What happened to magazine and their website? Going to http://www.fuelcoupe.com shows "account suspended". I did visit their Facebook page (I'm not on FB) but I don't see anything mentioned there regarding the website being down. Last post on FB is almost 2 months ago.

I used to have one of those figures with smoke-ring blowing cigarettes when I was growing up in Poland in the '70s. It wasn't just rolled up paper - the smoke smelled funny (like a burning table-tennis ball). I think that the stuff in them was celluloid.

180 degrees F seems way too hot! That will most likely soften and possibly distort resin and styrene parts! I agree that warm stripping solution is more aggressive than cold, but I would never go over 90-100 degrees F. If you work in a cold workshop (Like I do in the winter) where the ambient temps are in 50-60 range then the stripping solution is not every effective. Warming it up to 90 degrees F makes it work much faster. But not 180!

On he upper right corner of each post there is an icon which is 3 dots connected by lines (shaped like a "<" sign). You click on that and it gives you the URL pointing directly to that post. Here is the URL I got for your post: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/104078-new-siteforum-look/?do=findComment&comment=1637001 If you don't like the look of that long URL, you can just change the link text when you insert it in the post. Like click here to go to the post. That should be no different than pointing someone to a numerical value.