peteski

This looks familiar. I think I saw a model of this rod at a local model car show few years ago. Either MassCar or Classic Plastic show. But maybe it was just a dream.

In order for a model to be a 100% accurate replica of the real vehicle, you would have to take the real vehicle and shrink it at the atomic level. At this time this is impossible. The model would be made out of metal (not plastic) and would have everything which 1:1 vehicle has (like a working engine and electric system, hydraulic brakes, climate control, etc.). As you can see, this to me seems like a silly question. A plastic model of a real vehicle can only be an approximation of the real thing.

By now all (or most) RFID cards have been taken out of circulation. New cards either don't have the RFID circuit (plain cards) or they have the new "smart" chip on them (with the matal contacts visible on the front of the card. Those new cards cannot be read remotely - they have to be physically inserted in the smart card reader. Those metal card wallets are no longer needed or useful. it ssme that banks realided how easy was to skim the info from RFID cards so they dumped them. RFID card will have this symbol on it (and won't have any metal contacts on the card): The smart chip cards will have metal contacts on the front like this: Both types of cards usually still have the old-fashioned magnetic strip on the back which also cannot be read remotely.

Another vote for Sally's -that is where I get my multi-grit polishing boards. They also sell acrylic resin powder and liquid hardener (used for artificial nails) which can be used for lots of hobby applictions. And non-acetone nail polish remover in gallon containers.

Future (or whatever it is called nowadays) should not dull Alclad Chrome (or maybe only very slightly). But if you apply Future, I would not recommend removing it afterwards. Not only that the Future removal process (rubbing it with a Q-tip or similar) might damage the Alclad, the ammonia will probably do something nasty to the shiny metallic finish. I think that Cato was thinking of foiling over the Alclad areas. Foil is more durable than Alclad.

WOWski!

My favorite decal paper is Bare Metal Foil paper for my Alps MicroDry printer. I use laser paper with Alps and I don't have experience with ink jet stuff. BMF does also make ink jet decal paper.

I would also not buff it. Alclad is a very delicate finish.

The problem with flat clear coat is the same as with the flat new car paints (Not sure if those are still the cool thing): Flat requires very special care. If you aren't careful it can be easily scratched or repeated washing will polish the flatness out of the finish. Of course you can't wax it either. If you want to see what I man, take some Dullcoted part and rub it with a towel. It'll loose the flat finish and will polish out.

I love the "chain link fence" on the upper deck!

Very cool!

I'm not a subscriber, but I have to say that it was a great idea! Thanks! But seriously, I do subscribe to couple of magazines which are delivered in poly-bags and they arrive in my mailbox perfect condition all the time (which cannot be said about the other magazines I subscribe to).

Even if they were willing to train someone, that doesn't guarantee that the product quality will remain the same. It takes someone who is very fastidious, dedicated and also has talent for this type of work. Not everybody is cut out for this type of work. Even if someone is an experienced resin-caster, their definition of quality might be much lower than Don's. They might for example cut corners and the products will be inferior quality. It seems that nowadays more and more people don't have the dedication or drive to constantly do high-quality work.

You too can become that computer genius. Just go to http://lmgtfy.com/ (easy to remember URL: LetMeGoogleThatForYou.com) then do you thing. Then click "shorten" button and copy the URL above the button.

I guess nobody dared to click on the link I posted on the first page of this thread.

If the plating (vacuum metalizing) is similar to what has been used by model companies for years then any strong solution of lye (sodium hydroxide) like Purple Power should be able to strip it. Maybe there is a heavier layer of clear lacquer over the metalizing and the stripper needs more time to work through it?

There isn't much that can be done with solvent-type glue joints. Why? Because the solvent melts the plastic surfaces and truly welds the parts together into pretty much a single piece of plastic. Before now I never seen any CA debonders which would not also attack styrene. I'll have to try the one mentioned here. If it really works, that will be wicked cool!

Nice bike - well done!

I don't have any of those kits to check but I know that some companies (like Trumpeter) actually electroplate their plastic parts with chrome (or maybe nickel) instead of vacuum-aluminizing like most other manufacturers do. The vacuum-aluminizing deposits just few microns of aluminum over plastic (which is easily melted away by caustic solvents). Electroplated parts have much thicker layer of metal on them and the metal is more resistant to the chemicals we use for stripping plating. Electroplating is also much tougher to scrape off. Maybe that is what you are seeing on Mobius kits?

I'm glad it worked!

VIN number (Vehicle Identification Number) number. ATM machine (Automatic Teller Machine) machine. Most of us use those redundant phrases. And then the infamous:

Some forums do not allow the author to delete their threads or even edit their own posts after some time period.

M V Products makes headlight lenses with reflectors for model railroad hobby. They can be used in model cars too. But they have smooth lens and are fairly expensive. They are simply made by placing some clear resin over an aluminum foil reflector. I usually make my own. One way is to make RTV mold of the kit's headligth (molded with the bumper) Then fill the mold with resun high enough so it forms a dome. That dome will be the reflector. After resin hardens I remove it from the mold and stretch and burnish some BMF chrome foil over the domed part.

I assume the decal has not yet been clear-coated. Take a sharp pin and gently puncture the bubble in at least coupe of places. Ir take a hobby knife with a fresh blade and very gently slice across the bubble. Just a tiny slice will do. Then take some decal setting solution and using a brush dab it over the bubble. Then let it sit and the setting solution should soften the bubble and make it settle down. You might have to repeat the setting solution application more than once (but wait until the previous application is dry). If needed, touch up the decal with the same color paint.

You can take some masking tape and try to pick up the adhesive with it. Also, if you are planning on waxing the model, petroleum-based wax (most of them are) should dissolve BMF adhesive.