peteski

Looks like I'm not the only one using Parafilm - that stuff is great!

What diameter is the wire you need? Many computer ribbon cables (like the ones used to hook up the IDE hard drives, CD-ROM drives or floppy drives to the motherboard) use 30 AWG (approx 0.010" diameter) tin-plated stranded copper wire. You just have to strip the insulation. It looks just like the cable in Skip's picture.

Ah, just like the Professor and Mary-Ann in the first season of Gilligan's Island. I'm a fairly recent member but I suspect that there just isn't enough members who build bikes and post in a separate forum. So they go in the All the Rest Bucket. I build bike models too - just not very many.

In situations like that I use thin strips of masking tape placed along the edges of the molding. Then I apply BMF burnishing it well onto the molding (which is between the strips of tape). When I use the knife to trim, it easily follows the masking tape edge. Last I peel off the masking tape with the leftover BMF.

Ah, so I remembered it correctly. Maybe I should pick some of those little cigarettes and relive my childhood . . . BTW, that Google book is an interesting find. It really is amazing how much information is out there and how instant the search results are. No more doing research at the local library - the world's knowledge is at our fingertips, without even having to leave out home (or even on those new-fangled smart-phones).

This is probably not the proper forum for this question but I think that I'll have best chances of getting some answers here. What happened to magazine and their website? Going to http://www.fuelcoupe.com shows "account suspended". I did visit their Facebook page (I'm not on FB) but I don't see anything mentioned there regarding the website being down. Last post on FB is almost 2 months ago.

I used to have one of those figures with smoke-ring blowing cigarettes when I was growing up in Poland in the '70s. It wasn't just rolled up paper - the smoke smelled funny (like a burning table-tennis ball). I think that the stuff in them was celluloid.

180 degrees F seems way too hot! That will most likely soften and possibly distort resin and styrene parts! I agree that warm stripping solution is more aggressive than cold, but I would never go over 90-100 degrees F. If you work in a cold workshop (Like I do in the winter) where the ambient temps are in 50-60 range then the stripping solution is not every effective. Warming it up to 90 degrees F makes it work much faster. But not 180!

On he upper right corner of each post there is an icon which is 3 dots connected by lines (shaped like a "<" sign). You click on that and it gives you the URL pointing directly to that post. Here is the URL I got for your post: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/104078-new-siteforum-look/?do=findComment&comment=1637001 If you don't like the look of that long URL, you can just change the link text when you insert it in the post. Like click here to go to the post. That should be no different than pointing someone to a numerical value.

Sweet! Just what I needed to make that model look right.

THANKS!

Are you sure that this is rosin core and not acid core? Rosin is usually amber color and inert. That looks like acid residue. If it is rosin, it can easily be cleaned off with some 91% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. If it is acid, then you are probably SOL.

If you are talking about the factory chrome (vacuum-deposited aluminum), and not the Alclad II chrome, then it should be safe to clear coat it with Future or even regular enamel clear. Many kits with factory chrome parts already have clear coat applied over the metal layer (to protect it from oxidizing and fading away). The metal layer is so thin that if left unprotected even the moist sweat (salty water) from your hands left on it would eat away the thin metal layer after a while. There is also another factory "chrome:" out there: It is used in Trumpeter kits and many of the factory-build diecast models. Those plastic parts are electroplated with copper and with real chromium. The metal layer is much thicker and chromium is very durable (just like on 1:1 cars). No protection is ever needed.

Excellent, excellent!

I'm a happy customer too. I have bought several tools and the pair of sprue cutters I received had poorly ground cutting surfaces. After couple of emails (with close-up photos of the problem area), a replacement sprue cutter was sent to me - no charge and no need to return the defective one.

I picked up one of these at NNL East (I couldn't resist the $16 price, and also the fact that I was in love with that car and wanted one like it as my first car - I ended up with a 1976 Camaro instead). But the shallow-dish mag wheels in the rear really bug me. Without going through 12 pages of this thread, does anybody know a source of the wheels which would have deeper dish for the rear wheels? The other thing which could have been done differently is the front parking/directional lights. But I can deal with that.

I started a Tamiya Mazda MX-5 Miata (modified to be the M-edition) for my girlfriend who used to own the real car. That was in 1997. I got as far as getting the Merlot Mica paint, BBS RG wheels and photoetchign the emblems. I'll finish that model someday . . .

What was old is new again. Funny how things seem to go around in circles. Whether it is fashion or gasoline blends. I remember seeing the first modern retractable-top on a concept car (in the '90s, IIRC it was a Nissan) touted as something new and I immediately thought that it has already been done in the '50s (Ford Skyliner).

If you attend NNL East, they have this problem solved. They have crew walking along the long line collecting admission charge and stamping your hand showing that you paid. They also give you a goodie bag with the raffle ticket and few other items. They also give you model registration forms so you can fill them out while waiting in line. Registration forms can also be downloaded from their website before the show and filled out at home. When the doors open, everybody just goes right in.

Harry, sorry if I missed your reasoning in some earlier post: You seem to be really fixated on whether you can safely used this fuel in your fairly late-model car, but why do you want to do it? How much less expensive is it when compared to the standard 10% ethanol blend? Is it really even worth consideration? I'm also still puzzled with the the word "unleaded" in its name. Just call the darn thing E15 or GAS-85.

Funny how they are calling E85 Unleaded15. As if we wend back to the '80s when Regular (leaded) gas was still available. I really had a chuckle: to me it seems to imply that the other types of gasoline sold at the gas station are leaded. Sounds like a silly marketing ploy. I really wish that they would go back to "full strength" gasoline. After all the price of crude oil is again so cheap that it probably costs more to blend gasoline with ethanol. Plus I wouldn't have to worry about long term effects of using the 10% ethanol gasoline in my older car and lawnmower.

While I enjoy Doo Wop, I always thought that Rock-n-Roll originally evolved from R&B music with some other additional influences (as described in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_and_roll ) Doo Wop is also mentioned in that article but as a branch of Rock-n-Roll.

I just saw someone in another post mention "testers" when they meant "Testors". GRRRRRRRR! That one drives me nuts (and I don't want to hear "auto-correct" as an excuse - this mistake has been made long since before schmart-phones were around). If you use a company's product, learn how to spell the name correctly!

You've piqued my interest. I never used flocking in my models as I always thought it was way out-of-scale looking in 1:24 or 1:43 scales (but it looked fine on the floor of the 1:8 Pocher Mercedes). I just painted the carpeting using flat paints. But this embossing powder looks interesting. Is there a good tutorial on how to apply it?

There is about a dozen of different decal solutions out there in the hobby market. Some are based on acetic acid (have vinegar smell) while the others (stronger ones) seem to be based on some sort of alcohol or another similar organic solvent (again based on their smell). A good primer on using the Microscale decal system is available in http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/graphics/Instructions/MSISysteminstr.pdf . While I don't use ink jet decal paper I'm pretty sure that you will need to seal the printed (water-soluble) ink before immersing the decal in water. Otherwise the ink will run when it gets wet.