peteski

Actually the parent company, RPM owns both brands (and many more). They most likely are produced in separate factories using totally different formulas. Here is a list of all the brands they own: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RPM_International

With flat paint spray cans you really need to shake the bejesus out of them. The flattening agent settles down and needs to really be agitated well to get back into suspension. Shake it vigorously 3 times as long as you think it is necessary. Then test-spray onto a cheap plastic spoon to verify how it looks (before spraying the model).

Tenax 7R is basically Methylene Chloride. IPS Weld-On 3 is pretty much the same stuff (but much less expensive). I get it usually in 4 oz. or Pint size cans from my local True Value Hardware store. But (like anything else) it can be purchased online. Here is some good info about the IPS adhesives: http://www.eplastics.com/plexiglass_glue

I don't think the IRS scam is related to any data breaches. I think the scammers just call either random or sequential phone numbers. As far as faking caller ID, most of the scammers and sales-pitch callers do that. It is really easy to do. The best one I've seen so far is when the Caller ID showed my own phone number calling me!

That is an odd li'l fellow. Looks like it is sulking. The steering wheel comes up half way up the windshield. It would be interesting to actually see a driver inside it hanging onto the steering wheel.

Very helpful thread! I like to use the correct firing order, even in 1:43 scale. I also scratch-build the ignition coil and made some spark plug boots (which aren't really visible on this engine). But I have to fess up that I didn't wire up the primary side of the coil to the distributor or the 12V ignition lead from the firewall to the distributor - I couldn't find insulated wire thin enough to look in-scale for 1:43.

Ah, sounds like the device which fried protected its circuit breaker from blowing.

No, that is on Wednesday! But like you, that was what I thought I'd heard too.

The propellant (butane or other gases) partially exists in a liquid state (mixed with the paint). When decompressed rapidly as when punching the hole in the can and then removing the awl out of the hole, that will quickly decrease the pressure inside the can causing the propellant dissolved in the paint to start turning into gas (boiling). That will cause the paint to foam up and it will come out through the hole. Think of what happens when you shake a can of Coca-Cola and then you open it up. This can be done, but make the hole as small as possible and after puncturing, keep the awl in the hole, using it to restrict and cotntrol the release of pressure. When done slowly, you won't lose too much paint. Also be sure to do this in some area which will not be messed up by paint splatter and wear face protection and old clothes (just in case).

Relative humidity is not the only factor we need to consider when painting. There is a difference in 54% RH 65 deg. F, and 54% RH and temperature of 80 deg. F. The combination of those 2 values gives you the dew point. I would have no issues spray-painting when it is 54% RH and 65 F but doing that at 54% RH and 80 F is a bit risky.

WOW!

That's merchindising for you. Companies need to constantly change names and update the packages. It is happening with most of the products around us. I also think it sucks! But the ad agencies hired by the producers need to earn their big bucks somehow, so they redesign packaging or change product names. Very silly (to me). Actually in this specific instance company mergers or brand reshuffling dictated some of the changes. Of course whenever someone mentions this magical liquid, I can't resist pointing them to . . . http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Looks good Mike, but what about killing the shine on the tire tread? For some reason, it really jumped out in those photos.

Why not tell us which kit this is? Did it have instructions? What do the instructions show? That entire fender assembly looks a bit wonky to me.

Thanks Mark. This brings another question: how to get in touch with Kenny outside of Facebook? This is the Facebook page.

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing. Maybe you are thinking of magnet wire? The one I was recommending is not floppy at all. Besides, it will be strung between 2 attachment points to keep it taut.

So you are saying that the kid next door exposed you (opened your eyes) to model cars? So it is ok, for a kid to expose things to other kids, but not for an adult to expose a youth to a model car hobby? Do I sense a contradiction here? If that kid didn't show you his models you might have never got into the hobby. Do you see what I did there? Maybe we should just better define "exposing" vs. "cramming something down their throat". To me"exposing" is exactly what that kid did for you. You could show some of your models or even your workshop to some kid without forcing them to try building a model. That is what "exposing" is all about.

I also dislike large signature images. Thankfully, it seems that this forum has a way to block them on absolute or individual level. But I still think it is rude of people to include large photos in their signatures. And I also know that opinions are like a-holes . . .

Probably to make the "glass" look like the real car, not sit deep inside of the out-of-scale-too-thick plastic body. As long as the glass area is thin and clear I actually think that is a good idea.

Not a bad deal at all!

Not all the water-based acrylic paints are compatible. There are several different formulas and they are incompatible. Maybe the brand you use is not compatible with Future floor finish?

I originally posted this question in the Drag Racing Models section, figuring that it might be the best audience for this question, but I had no replies. Trying the Off-Topis section. What happened to magazine and their website? Going to http://www.fuelcoupe.com shows "account suspended". I did visit their Facebook page (I'm not on FB) but I don't see anything mentioned there regarding the website being down. Last post on FB is almost 2 months ago.

While I don't know rules in PA, I find it hard to believe that traffic laws in any state would allow: 1. Running a red light (in any direction) 2. Encourage aggressive driving. But what I do hate is the timid drivers who come to a full stop when entering a divided highway from on on-ramp. That really makes impossible to merge with the traffic (which even in the slow lane is going at least 55 MPH!). Especially where there is no breakdown lane on the right. There were few instances where I almost rear-ended those individuals. There is a Yield (not STOP) sign at the end of the on-ramp. I also used to see "Merging Traffic" signs, but I don't seem to see those much anymore.

Oh yeah, this stuff is still made (and probably will be for a long time). http://www.parafilm.com/products#laboratory This film's main application is as a seal in laboratories. But some enterprising modeler figured out a way to use it for a masking film. This was way before Internet forums. IIRC< the first mention of Mariafil M in hobbies was in an article in FineScale Modeler Magazine. I also have large roll I bought many years ago (not the small quantities repackaged by Testors) - this stuff doesn't seem to go bad. Like others mentioned, there are many online sources. One word of caution. If you used that stuff in a stretched form, the solvent from hot lacquers can soften it or even permeate it. I once masked a windshield with Parafilm to airbrush the black surround. When I peeled the Parafilm off the "glass" it was slightly crazed. But I lay the paint rather wet and that might be part of the problem.

I don't have enough info here and I don't know the traffic laws in IL to see if what he did was correct. For example, since there was a dedicated left-turn lane, was there a full set of left turn signals (red, yellow, and green left turn arrows)? Or just solid green for all the directions? If there is a red left turn arrow illuminated then I would not make a left turn until I had a green left turn arrow. But if the only traffic signal lit up at that point was solid green with no directions indicated then I would have turned left if it was safe to do so.